D-DAY 101st Airborne 1/9

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Wow, John, thanks a lot for revealing and sharing your process!
Not only finished one but also the masters are beautiful too. Rev War piece is one of my favourites I'm glad to see its original master.

Another curiosity rises...

Q1) What's that yellow material for belts?
Q2) Why do you use Chavant P-40 clay for only head and hands and not for whole body, I mean, is there any reasons different materials for head & hand and Magic Sculpt for body?

Sorry for many questions...:)
 
No worries on the questions:) , and thank you for your compliments on the masters -its an equally rewarding stage to me to see the completed sculpt and that be able to stand alone.. .Painted figure takes it to an entirely different space but thrilling to try to make it look real.The Yellow material is resin castings of various fabrics or what ever that I've found that represents great scale texture that can be incorporated into the sculpt -for example to form the basis of the web belt then add to it detail wise
P-40 gives me unlimited working time to get the face right....other figure sculptors like sculpy for this, I'm just used to the clay from my years of EFX sculpting and just what I'm used to_Once I get a casting I further refine it in the resin. P-40 works down to about 75mm , smaller scales its magic sculpt and refining when its hard
 
Thanks a lot for answering my questions in detail.
Fabric texture tips is good to know, now I understand the secret of your realistic texture on belts and equipments which I was really impressed when I done your 1/6 d-day figure.

And now I understood the reason you use different materials for heads / hands and body.
Great to know about the sculpting base and refinement procedure.
 
if this is helpful another texture tip is to apply a fabric or other material as a "texture pad" into the almost set up expoxy putty and gently pull off leaving behind the desired texture for various web gear sculpts
 
I tried to order P40 last year directly from Chavant and the rep there told me they no longer make that clay. He sent me what they are calling the P40 replacement called Y2Clay and other industrial clays as a free sample kit. Chavant was more than generous in they sent a box including a full billet of the Y2Clay along with something called auto style. I have to admit I have not taken the time to try any of them. The Y2Clay was as hard as steel and I guess I'm a little perplexed on how to use it. I warmed it under a lamp but brushing down with turpenoid like I do with epoxy or Sculpey just made the stuff gritty and unusable. It must have some kind of filler in it. John have you ever used NSP hard for miniature work?
 
Jerry I still have a huge quanity of the old P40, sounds like the new formula isn't too spiffy........but we use NSP in all varieties at my shop and its great- I would think it would work just fine.
thats the trick though to warm up the super hard clay then use your thin shavings as you carve away, warm those up in your finger then build up....I'll freeze it also at a point to get it super hard again as I'm becoming more satified with the look.Turpenoid to heavily cut/smooth, 70 %alcohol for more subtle smoothing.
On a different note I use alcohol to smooth my magic sculpt as I'm working and spit moistened brush, water turns it to slop
 
Looks like another perfectly proportioned sculpt along with an incredible paint job. Great work john. Love those 75mm figs too, Bravo!

Cheers, Ski.
 
For those interested in new Chavant products; There is one I use now in place of P-40, and it works great. It is call Chavant High Melt, you can warm it as usual, under 100 watt bulb in foil lined box (best method), and smooth using lighter fluid. All Chavant no sulfur clays contain an amount of wax and this works very well. I used on P-40 as well. As usual John, great work ! Your art work is at a standard that we all try to imitate.
 
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