Every time problem with smoothing...

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Drenth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
403
Location
Hochdorf Luzern
Hi figurefriends

Every time when i was modelling some minis i have the biggest problem to smooth the details and muscles.

For modelling i prefer super sculpy and fimo, cause i'm not very fast and greenstuff or like that dry to fast...

Bit the result will be better... Some ideas or solutions are welcome?

Thank you!!
image.jpg
 
HI Drenth,

To overcome this problem of smooth finish sculpting I brush the surface with a wide very soft brush with a small amount of water.

Good sculpting, Keith
 
For sculpey I recommend you apply sculpey brand dilutant also known as clay softener with a soft brush. You should be able to get a completely smooth surface. You can also over apply and use a brush to sculpt texture in hair and fur. Really over applying let's you create a clay slip which also has its uses. I have heard that baby or mineral oil works but don't use it without experimenting including baking.

As sculpey is a polymer clay with oil content, water doesn't work well.

image.jpg

Colin
 
I think sculpey clay softener should be available from most large art supply shops selling the clay. Hopefully you should not have to sent to North America for it. But it is small and light and should not cost much to ship.

Colin
 
For thermal clays there are few ways (in my own opinion and experience).
1. Commercial stuff - allegedly the best, I havent tried it yet, as didnt feel the need.
2. Ethanol spirit or isopropil alcohol ( basicaly pre-injection skin desinfectants in local chemist, although I am still tempted to try vodka one day) - dries fast, doesnt create sludge, good results. Difficult to obtain in some countries or too expensive for the amount you get.
3. Johnsone Baby oil- quite strong , good to smooth very rough surfaces and fast, but has a danger of turning everything into mush if used too much and blocks your brush (but also, surprisingly, this can be very usefull for certain tasks). I use baby oil to revive clay that is drying up and getting brittle.
4. Water - works fine, I find that it creates very fine emulsion of clay on the surface - can be usefull , can be a nightmare too.
5. Own saliva - when there is no motivation to make extra effort ( I am a lazy git) and no paranoya about poisoning yourself. Weirdly, I find it works best sometimes.

Best brushes are makup brushes or very fine smooth sable for intricate work . I found a superb brush in my house and used it for a month, to discover that it was my wife's prized Ben-Nye make up brush. Since she doesnt want it back for some reason, I am very pleased with it - makes everything very smooth without major chemical jiggery pockery.

There is a way of course to polish things further after they are baked, but usually not worth the effort with thermal clays . For that I found a mix of 3 different clays in a certain proportion and special foamy pads works a treat, you can even put a slight sheen on sculpey (as someone said once, you can't polish a turd, but you can put a damn good sheen on it :D)

I hope it helps.
 
Put the sculpt in the fridge overnight, burnish the cold hard surface with a metal tool that has a hard polished surface (wax carver/dental tool - even the back of a spoon!). You will only get a limited time to work with the material before it warms, but the results are worth it. You can always put it back in the fridge for half a hour or so as the core is still cold.

-Rich
 
Hi all

I usually use "White Spirit" or other oil paints solvents, and a soft brush to smooth the surface.
But to modelize I use, and frequently abuse, "rubber brushes", they are very useful to sculpt and you can get soft surfaces at the same time you modelize.

You probably already know but just in case here you are a picture
Fer
curso_mod_007_zps55aba1ae.jpg
 

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