Filing Tools?

[Ginger]

I have started sculpting my own 1/35 figures, using Magisculpt and Fimo, but despite smoothing with a damp brush before setting, I always feel they need sanded/filed further.
So what tools do you guys recommend for sanding/filing those tight folds and hard to reach places?..
Thanks

 

[PHIL WALDEN]

Steve,..
try using a very fine wire wool the type you use to clean your pots, but not the soap impregnated,just a little messy...For wee areas wrap a small bit around a cotton bud or tooth pick, but of course only when thing have cured hard, just as well l remembered that,things may have gone badly wrong...

good luck Phil..

 

[Einion]

So what tools do you guys recommend for sanding/filing those tight folds and hard to reach places?..

My recommendation would be not to, as much as possible.

It's not too difficult to get a surface on putty that's smooth and nearly glossy, long as you work it the right way. Is the problem with the finish you're left with, or is it that you need to refine some of the folds afterwards?

Einion

 

[bonehead]

Einion is right. I do as little finishing work as possible once the putty is hardened. Sometimes it can't be avoided though. I generally use a knife blade or sandpaper for refining. I have lots of old worn bits of sandpaper with torn edges that are good for getting into the grooves of folds and such. I have a selection of files but find that I hardly ever use them anymore.

But the best policy is to get the stuff looking good while the putty is still workable. Why make more work for yourself than you have to?

No files were abused in the making of this figure.

Mike

 

[1969]

I agree with Einion and Mike, you need to concentrate more on smoothing the uncured putty so that it sets smooth and eliminates the need for refining, i very rarely find the need to further smooth the figure once putty has set.
With the magicsculpt try letting it set for about 45 minutes before smoothing with damp brush as it is very difficult to smooth when freshly mixed and it tends to break up if you use too much water when smoothing.
Also try pressing your folds/creases in when the putty is pretty firm as this will give you smoother results, i use a sewing needle for creating the creases/folds which works well.

hope this helps,

Steve

 

[Ginger]

Thanks guys....

..I will try some wire wool on those that I have done so far, and work a bit more on the smoothing in future.
Sometimes, the Magisculpt looks smooth when I am manipulating it- but then hardens a bit lumpy.
With the Fimo, [which does not set gradually, but has to be baked], after smoothing and blending with a damp brush, it can often look chalky, or on close inspection, have the rough texture of a very fine sandpaper.
Any thoughts?

 

[Einion]

...work a bit more on the smoothing in future.

On that front, if you don't already I'd recommend working the putty through to near full setting. You can get epoxy putties a lot smoother after an hour+ than you can when they're still fairly fresh, the first half hour/45 minutes.

Sometimes, the Magisculpt looks smooth when I am manipulating it- but then hardens a bit lumpy.

That shouldn't really happen; the surface you leave when you're finished working should be the surface you get after curing First thought was you might just be noticing roughness that wasn't evident when the putty was still 'wet', but it's more opaque then than when cured so I don't think that could be it.

With the Fimo, [which does not set gradually, but has to be baked], after smoothing and blending with a damp brush, it can often look chalky, or on close inspection, have the rough texture of a very fine sandpaper.
Any thoughts?

A slightly open texture or porosity can be seen in plenty of close-up photos of baked pieces, mostly with Sculpey if memory serves, but as a rule I think it's not really evident after priming.

Any chance you're baking at too high a temperature? Something you might like to try for final smoothing is a solvent instead of water, if that's what you're currently using.

Regardless of how smooth this might leave the surface you do sometimes have to refine something after hardening by filing, carving or sanding* and I also think steel wool is quite good for this generally (works well on resin and white metal too). I'd highly recommend 0000 grade if you can find it - like steel cotton candy/candy floss - as this leaves scratches so fine they're easiest to polish off and it can be manipulated into tight spaces better than the coarser grades too.

*Wet-n-dry much preferable to regular sandpaper.

Einion

P.S. Not sure where you live but if you know what Cif is try scrubbing the sculpt with that, using a new (firm) toothbrush. After that try using the toothbrush dry, I'm sure you'll be happy with the finish.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Interesting thread, Ive picked up some tips from it.

Cheers
Janne Nilsson

 

[Anders Heintz]

I am all about carving after the putty has cured. Sure for some things such as leather or fur you don't want to disrupt the sculpted on detail/surface, but for something smooth like some trousers or something like that I like to use artificial steel wool. It is basically a 000 Superfine scotchbrite pad, it will polish nicely and will not leave all the nasty little metal burrs from the steelwool that always end up in the putty you mix next!

Another great smoothing tool is a #15c scalpel blade, you can scrape the surface and get rid of a lot of stuff easily.

 

[panzer007]

Very good thread!!!

for me..I used Thinner (Gunze is the best, I think) when it near to dry (After 45 min-1Hour).
if I need to reform it or make it more edge, I used art-knife.
if that area is too big and need more smooth, I used 3M-Sanding Sponge.

Pongsatorn.K