Completed Forward Observers

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Well worth getting a new desk for these paints Simon...


And on we go. After getting some thin initial base coats on, the purple undertones weren't really coming through as I had hoped. I left the figures to dry overnight but that didn't really change anything. Oh well. So on to my traditional approach of quick highlighting and a dark wash followed by repeated rounds of highlights and mids and definition. I'm using the new paints as much as possible, which means a fair bit of mixing, and am quickly learning they do need a good drying out to appreciate their true colours and strength. I will say that they are very pleasant to work with, are well saturated and dry absolutely matte. They are so matte that if you mix in any other Vallejo paint, those become super matte as well. And so far I've just used the #3 Vallejo brush which is significantly larger than anything in my current arsenal, yet points wonderfully, I like it.


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The greens are a little stark at the moment. The mids and lights are a touch blue and some of the darker tones are rather ugly IMHO. I'll have to do another round of glazing to adjust them. I like the strong contrast though.


And a quick peek in place. The air ID panel has gotten a bit more work and I did a bit of edge highlighting, otherwise not much happening with the base just yet. The colours look a bit closer to reality in these shots.



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I can see that the observer's right arm needs the most work, otherwise I think the values are pretty good except for the helmets, they need some cleaning up. Still lots of fun ahead.


Kimmo
 
Hi Kimmo

This is really coming along nicely , love the way your thinking in respect the lighting and the effects on both vehicle and the figures ...the details really starting to show now

Thanks for great updates ...it’s fun to look at larger images by clicking on yours

Looking forward to seeing more

Have fun @ the bench

Nap
 
Looking good Kimmo, it's already a nice tight composition and we'll painted. By the time you are done it'll be a jewel.

Cheers Simon
 
Cheers Nap, Simon and David!


I wasn't happy with how the greens looked so I did something I should have done right from the start, that is get familiar with all the new paints and try some basic mixes. Being reasonably sure that I'd be able to find suitable colors to shade my base greens I just went ahead and got what I got, which was not happy. In playing with the the blues and yellows I discovered that you get some absolutely fantastic greens, real vibrant, punchy greens. I found something that looked like it could work and toned it down a bit with something resembling a mid warmish grey (which looks tan) and then adding ivory/off white. Greens like this are a PITA. They either look too blue, too yellow or completely washed out. I think I like this.


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The ugly greens and browns are now mostly gone, and the values are much better overall. Still a bit of refining to do and maybe a slight tone down as well.


Kimmo
 
Hi Kimmo

That's a nicer green for sure , as you say a slight tone down will be a benefit

Thanks for sharing the updates

Looking forward to seeing what happens next

Have fun at the bench

Nap
 
Cheers Nap and Simon!

Simon, not sure what to use yet. Ye olde booke of colours suggests red to tone down green and as this green leans blue, then a warmer red/orange might be appropos. I think if I just do a filter of a tan/grey it might dull down too much. A round of experimenting on paper is in order.


Kimmo
 
I think this why I prefer the model oriented paints the pigment blends seem to be more muted. I used plenty of Vallejo Game Colour when painting fantasy gaming miniatures when bright colours are desirable. I will be interested to see how your experiments go, before I spend any money on.more paint, yeah I know cheek of the devil!

Cheers Simon
 
Excellent updates, I think the figures are looking better overall. Very nice progress indeed.
 
I think this why I prefer the model oriented paints the pigment blends seem to be more muted. I used plenty of Vallejo Game Colour when painting fantasy gaming miniatures when bright colours are desirable...

Y'know, Simon, I've always suspected that they use the same paint in both catalogs, and just re-name them according to the genre. Like khaki for Model Color, "Elf Barf" for gaming, and so on. :D

Prost!
Brad
 
Y'know, Simon, I've always suspected that they use the same paint in both catalogs, and just re-name them according to the genre. Like khaki for Model Color, "Elf Barf" for gaming, and so on. :D

Prost!
Brad

Oh I'm sure a lot of that happens as well but some game paints are just too vivid and bright for scale models, plus they can often have more of a sheen to them when dry. It's all alchemy to me though.

Cheers Simon
 
Cheers Nigel!


Y'know, Simon, I've always suspected that they use the same paint in both catalogs, and just re-name them according to the genre. Like khaki for Model Color, "Elf Barf" for gaming, and so on. :D

Prost!
Brad


Brad, you aren't far off from the truth. There are a lot of colours duplicated through both Model and old Game Color ranges with different names. Then there a some lines done for others which are exclusive, the Nocturna sets come to mind. The difference between the Model and old Game is noticeable though in terms of saturation and consistency across either range and when compared against each other. Both have slight variance in finish from matte to almost semi-gloss with a few dedicated gloss colours. Panzer Aces is a more unique colour range, and different again from the other two because they were all matte. The new Game Color is completely new in that everything is now super matte and saturated, plus the consistency is even throughout and working/drying time has changed. In short, they've completely reworked the range and have reworked their branding image to boot. I suspect that all the ranges will be updated to a newer formula, while retaining their own identities if you will. They will most certainly be repackaged into the new 18ml bottles which are the same size as the 17ml bottles made with thinner plastic resulting in a touch more volume.


Oh I'm sure a lot of that happens as well but some game paints are just too vivid and bright for scale models, plus they can often have more of a sheen to them when dry. It's all alchemy to me though.

Cheers Simon


Simon, I would have certainly agreed with you 100% not that long ago. I'm beginning to understand why some historical subjects look a bit garish in terms of colour, not in workmanship mind you. It all boils down to preference(s) and style(s) in the end. I'm using this project as a test bed to see how the paints behave/look and I am beginning to appreciate the option for more oomph. I think it's easier to tone something vivid down, rather than to punch something muted up based on my own experiences to date. That said, I'll more than likely continue using a mix of all the different ranges and sets based on what I want to achieve for any given project.


Kimmo
 
Cheers Nigel!





Brad, you aren't far off from the truth. There are a lot of colours duplicated through both Model and old Game Color ranges with different names. Then there a some lines done for others which are exclusive, the Nocturna sets come to mind. The difference between the Model and old Game is noticeable though in terms of saturation and consistency across either range and when compared against each other. Both have slight variance in finish from matte to almost semi-gloss with a few dedicated gloss colours. Panzer Aces is a more unique colour range, and different again from the other two because they were all matte. The new Game Color is completely new in that everything is now super matte and saturated, plus the consistency is even throughout and working/drying time has changed. In short, they've completely reworked the range and have reworked their branding image to boot. I suspect that all the ranges will be updated to a newer formula, while retaining their own identities if you will. They will most certainly be repackaged into the new 18ml bottles which are the same size as the 17ml bottles made with thinner plastic resulting in a touch more volume.





Simon, I would have certainly agreed with you 100% not that long ago. I'm beginning to understand why some historical subjects look a bit garish in terms of colour, not in workmanship mind you. It all boils down to preference(s) and style(s) in the end. I'm using this project as a test bed to see how the paints behave/look and I am beginning to appreciate the option for more oomph. I think it's easier to tone something vivid down, rather than to punch something muted up based on my own experiences to date. That said, I'll more than likely continue using a mix of all the different ranges and sets based on what I want to achieve for any given project.


Kimmo

Very true Kimmo all down to personal preferences and style, also toning down is far easier than the reverse, especially as the more colours mixed the lower the intensity and saturation. One could probably base a 3 year degree course on modelling paints and their application, to be fair though I'd rather know what works and doesn't for me than why, I'm happy with alchemy.


Cheers Simon
 
I think I've got the uniforms almost sorted out now. Adding red to the base made things too brown and I realised that a desaturated orange might be the answer. It also turns out that I was trying to go a step too far from base to highlight with the new equivalent of Sunny Skin Tone, which is slightly less orange than the Model Color we all know and love. An intermediate step was done with a bit more of my neutral tan/grey to reduce the green, and finally a touch of the ivory shade for the extreme highlights. The green is now toned down a little bit more and now we'll have to revisit some shadows. The leather bits have been worked on and are coming along nicely.



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Next up will be to get the gear wrapped up and then on to the flesh tones and base.


Kimmo
 
Cheers Simon!

A wee bit of progress continuing to get details sorted out.



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The shots are a bit overexposed, cursed bench light strikes again. I can see I do need to smooth out some of the highlights. I'll touch up the shadows once I get a good look at how things look in place. Speaking of, I added a decal to the tank for the serial number. After a good gloss coat and dry, I lightly sanded it to get rid of the film and to distress the serial. And here's how things look


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Slowly but surely....


Kimmo
 
A good couple of days at the bench. The figures are about 95% done, a few details and the skin tones need to be addressed.


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The base is coming along as well. The groundwork has been based (no pun intended), the NMM is getting a bit more sketching in and details are being picked out.


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And an overall look



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The groundwork now really ties the overall effect together. Still a fair bit of work to do, particularly on the tracks and idler.


Kimmo
 
Cheers Nigel!

Everything is relative, feels like this has taken far too long as it is. Will get an update in tomorrow.


Kimmo
 
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