Has anyone used 'Clear Resin',. In depth, to create a deep water effect.

[Tubby-Nuts2]

I was just wondering, after a good few hours (too many)! .. of searching the 'Internet',,.. does anyone have any experience with this area! ... there are a few good videos,.. but all seem to be, 'Non English', which is not that much help! ... specifically, creating, the retaining, shell/wall, on an existing wooden base, so that the resin does not leak out. What's the best material to use for such a venture! Plasticard,? I do require sharp 90 degree angles on the edges!... as an, extreme, example, ... However, I would be looking at such things as these Base's! (Courtesy of, Ron Tamburrini). ...

Regards,

Mark

 

[Steve]

I think Clear Resin is what Meehan34 uses to get those fantastic water effects he does so well. Once he sees this I am sure he will pipe up.

 

[Gary D]

I've read that once you've built your dam around the base with plastic card (clear or white), it's a good idea to take an old paint brush and dab resin around rocks, tree roots, and the river bank etc. Do this before your pour in your resin and this will help eliminate air bubbles that tend to form.

Gary

 

[1969]

I have tried it once and with good effect, I used acetate sheet for the dam, the stuff they use on over head projectors, you can bend it to nice 90 degree angles for the corners. Its important to seal the edges with something like pva glue, trick is to get the acetone sheet butted tightly to the base.
I added about half a drop of green acrylic paint to my resin as I wanted a slightly murky river and not 100% clear, best to experiment a little to see how much paint to add, its very easy to add to much and then you loose the transparency of the resin.
Make sure everything on the river/lake bed or in it are firmly fixed otherwise they will float in the resin when poured.
Gary`s suggestion sounds a good idea with coating things first and letting set before the final pour.
You do not have to do the pour in one go, you can do it by layers unless using a pigment otherwise you will see the different layers if you do not get the colour tint exact every time.

Here is one I did some years back, I used a polyester resin from a craft store.

All the best
Steve

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Excellent, .. now this the type of information/advice, that I was seeking!..

Mark

 

[Helm]

If you aren't wanting a large or clear area of water use a cheap two pack type resin somebody (Carl Barton I think) told me as it's nice and murky and is good and thick to stop the bubbling etc. Not used it yet but I do intend to at some point
Steve

 

[Don]

Mark I believe Steve is right about being very careful when pouring in stages. I saw one a few years ago where the different layers were different colours due I am sure to the chap pouring batches with a slightly different colour each pour.

Don

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Mark even a pin hole will let it escape and if you don't follow the instructions to the letter it won't set my two attempts ended in total disaster and and my good Scottish friends never let me forget.
PM Carl Barton he has a link to most things ,and has a how to do on this one .
You will have to be careful on the bottom left of the Oak base and perhaps seal it at the bottom also.

Ps Carl B uses Gaffa tape to crank everything up tight

Ron

 

[FigureLover]

I just wrapped plastistruct(evergreen sheet) around the base of my Chinese General (base was round). I did a thin pour first to seal up the base(even then I had some seeping out) and then did two subsequent pours to get a depth of up to 2cm deep. To get the sharp edges and no shrinkage at the top, do one more thin final pour just to fill the shrinkage. Works well, be patient though. I had an initial problem with marjor bubbling using Crystal clear as it reacted with moisture in the base. After repairing the base I used a great product called Kraft Kote, ended up perfect and crystal clear. Link - http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/pegaso-90mm-guan-yu.50994/
I also added a bit of vallejo mud colour to where his hoof is in the water to make it look disturbed.
I also had problems finding info on using clear resins, Mike Meehan helped quite a bit
Hope this helps
Ben

 

[FigureLover]

Sorry, forgot to mention that I just held the plastistruct in place with masking tape, easy for this shape
Ben

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Ps Carl B uses Gaffa tape to crank everything up tight !

Thanks Ron! I was wondering what type of, 'Clamps', and or tape to use! .. I forgot about 'Gaffer tape!

I was aware of the gaps at the bottom of the second base, .. although some 'Milliput', smoothed in to those little area's, and prepped along with the rest of the under-water, work, should resolve that issue!

Mark

 

[Don]

Mark I feel it only fair to say that Ron did complete a wonderful piece with a dock just after the tide went out.
What he was telling you was correct, its got to be tight or it will end up looking like Rons, an empty dock. It did not take anything from the figure or the final work but the tide going out rather spoiled his efforts for his original plan!

Don

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Cheers Don! .. my intention is to make it as tight as,.. Err! Ron's wallet!. . so not even air could get in.. , (Sorry, Ron, ) could not resist that one!

I have a number of 'Clamps',..

Mark.