How I build dioramas Part 2
- Thread starter JohnReid
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JohnReid
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The first step is to spray lacquer both sides on the laser cut board before removing the ribs.
Now take a piece of pink insulation board,lay on the upper wing plan and put a piece of wax paper over that and pin down.Take your ribs and pin them down over the wax paper/plan.The ribs themselves are not numbered so be careful that they are in the right order.Don't worry about the varying sizes of the lightening holes in the ribs as the plans are just not that accurate.
Next take your rib stiffener strips and lay them over the ribs.Be sure to leave a little extra room around the spar areas, as these will need some filing out later to have the spars fit through the holes properly.
Secure the ribs using small pins and put a small drop of superthin superglue at each rib/stiffener joint area.
Now take a piece of pink insulation board,lay on the upper wing plan and put a piece of wax paper over that and pin down.Take your ribs and pin them down over the wax paper/plan.The ribs themselves are not numbered so be careful that they are in the right order.Don't worry about the varying sizes of the lightening holes in the ribs as the plans are just not that accurate.
Next take your rib stiffener strips and lay them over the ribs.Be sure to leave a little extra room around the spar areas, as these will need some filing out later to have the spars fit through the holes properly.
Secure the ribs using small pins and put a small drop of superthin superglue at each rib/stiffener joint area.
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
Fire scorched wood.
I have been trying to think of a way to scorch the wood of the wing ribs,spars and cap strips. I had originally thought of using pastels after the wing was built but now I am thinking that nothing will look as good as actually scorching the wood itself.I will have to do this before I finish the assembly of the wing.The key is to scorch the wood in such a way as to not affect the glue joints or distort or warp the wood in any way.( I know great time to think of this now)
I was thinking of using a butane lighter but that could easily get out of hand.I have an old iron that I used in my ship building days for bending planks and it seems to me that if you let it get hot enough it would eventually scorch the wood.I also have a wood burning tool that I used for bird feathering on carvings.
I also need to experiment with a controlled burn on fabric ,as although most of it would be flash burned off ,some remnants would remain.
Should be fun!
I have been trying to think of a way to scorch the wood of the wing ribs,spars and cap strips. I had originally thought of using pastels after the wing was built but now I am thinking that nothing will look as good as actually scorching the wood itself.I will have to do this before I finish the assembly of the wing.The key is to scorch the wood in such a way as to not affect the glue joints or distort or warp the wood in any way.( I know great time to think of this now)
I was thinking of using a butane lighter but that could easily get out of hand.I have an old iron that I used in my ship building days for bending planks and it seems to me that if you let it get hot enough it would eventually scorch the wood.I also have a wood burning tool that I used for bird feathering on carvings.
I also need to experiment with a controlled burn on fabric ,as although most of it would be flash burned off ,some remnants would remain.
Should be fun!
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
Before scorching and weathering the skeletonized wing assembly I fitted the ribs to the fore and aft spars. Then when they were all bunched together I sanded the noses of all the ribs flat to later accept the leading edge.(there actually was very little to remove) The trailing edge will be worked on after the wing is assembled.
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
After a few further experiments I decided to go with a woodburning tool set at medium heat.Most other methods did not allow for enough control over the rate of scorching and some were too hard on the glue joints.When the wing is built I can further refine it a bit with pastels.
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
Trailing edge and aileron spars and the leading edge have been temporarily installed.The aileron spars where the leading edge of the ailerons are attached must be shaped into a U type curve.
I had forgotten just how time consuming the the building of the Albatros wings can be,much more so than either the Camel or the Nieuport or maybe it is because I have a short memory!
I had forgotten just how time consuming the the building of the Albatros wings can be,much more so than either the Camel or the Nieuport or maybe it is because I have a short memory!
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
Wood bending tool.
I use an old hair curler for bending wood.It remains at a nice constant temperature and has just the right curve for most hobby work.
I dunk my wood into water and let it soak for awhile depending on the thickness.Then I press the wood up against the curler and slowly bend it to shape.If you are bending right near the end of the wood get an old piece of wood or the end of an eraser to replace your fingers.Take your time and re-soak the wood if necessary.Even thin wood has a grain and some of it does not run lengthwise but is cross grain in nature,so if it keeps breaking select another piece.If the wood splits turn it over and bend the other way.After a while you will become more familiar with the grain of the wood just by looking at it.Experiment and take your time! Have fun.
I use an old hair curler for bending wood.It remains at a nice constant temperature and has just the right curve for most hobby work.
I dunk my wood into water and let it soak for awhile depending on the thickness.Then I press the wood up against the curler and slowly bend it to shape.If you are bending right near the end of the wood get an old piece of wood or the end of an eraser to replace your fingers.Take your time and re-soak the wood if necessary.Even thin wood has a grain and some of it does not run lengthwise but is cross grain in nature,so if it keeps breaking select another piece.If the wood splits turn it over and bend the other way.After a while you will become more familiar with the grain of the wood just by looking at it.Experiment and take your time! Have fun.
JohnReid
A Fixture
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