Information on Mold-making and Casting

[Dan Morton]

Could someone point me to some reference materials on mold-making and casting? I've never tried anything like that and would like to get some idea of the processes, materials, methods, etc.

OR - alternatively, a detailed SBS?

all the best,
Dan

 

[slaj]

Dan I remember that in past issues of military modelling there was a two part article on mould making and casting.Don't remember the dates though.Maybe someone her can pinpoint that.It was quite good

Stephen Mallia

 

[Einion]

Hi Dan, I'm not on my Mac at the moment and I think I have some more links there but this one on FSM's site is well worth a look:

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/r...casting1102.pdf

There are some other good articles available in PDF format on the site too, I think you have to register to look for them.

Einion

 

[Roy]

That's a great link with some really solid advice Einion, I know many of us here will find it useful as it is explained very well.
The writer talks of increasing the flow rate of the resin into the mold to help the air escape, which helps a great deal with the quality of the casting, but he also expresses his concern for the cost of additional rubber you would use to achieve this. I might offer a little tip here...a simple paper funnel inserted into the top of the mold will save a lot of extra rubber and increase the flow rate considerably without adding to the cost of extra mold material.

All the best.

Roy.

 

[AFSOC]

A quick and dirty one piece mold can be done with fish tank silicone. Just temporarily tack the part to a piece of plastic, use some scrap to make a mold box, and then give the part a quick coat of something to use as a release (petrolium jelly or something.)

Then, coat the part with the fish tank silicone. Let it set, then peel it away. It's not pretty, but it works for a one sided part you might need to make one or two casts.

 

[Dan Morton]

Many thanks, Jeff, Roy, Einion & Stephen. I'll make a trip to the FSM web page and dig out any other articles on the subject. I'd really like to hear from more contributors about this subject. I've seen RTV used to seal parts, etc., but not as a casting material. Is anything else used other than RTV silicone?

All the best,
Dan

 

[btavis]

Dan, you can buy a starter casting kit from Micro Mark and it has everything you need. You can do a cast of something right away and not worry about the right materials. Both RTV and Resin come in many, many varieties and to be sure they all have different qualities for different purposes. But for a beginner the kit is perfect and get you going with minimal fuss.

 

[Einion]

Hi Dan, I don't know how good it is but the starter kit from the people mentioned at the bottom of the FSM article is cheap enough and looks like it would be a good introduction to casting: http://www.crystaltower.com/aceresin/

You can find a lot of information about different options for mould rubbers and casting resins from reading the blurbs on the sites that sell them, Douglas & Sturgess's is good for this; their SR-2238 + Insta-Cast Off White make a good basic combo.

Einion

 

[Dan Morton]

Thanks Einion and Bob! I'll try one of the recommended starter kits.

All the best,
Dan

 

[PJ Deluhery]

I do a lot of restoration work with toy soldiers. Here's a tip I've developed.
For copying small parts, I have had good luck with using ETI's Mold Builder, liquid latex rubber. Available in most craft stores, I think.

I coat the part with a little Vasoline or hand cream, then paint on the liquid latex in several layers with an old brush until I get a servicable mold. Layers can be done with an hour or two drying time in between each layer. Let the whole thing dry overnight after the final layer. Then split the mold with an Exacto knife, and pull out the original. Next, coat the inside of the mold with talc or vasoline and cram in some Magic Sculpt. Let dry for a day or so, and then peel off the mold. Mold is often re-usable. You can then trim flash, etc from the Magic Sculpt copy until it suits your needs. I have copied 70 mm heads and arms with this technique. Also many weapons and body parts in all scales.

For you air brush people, mold builder also makes and excellent liquid mask. It comes off easily and does not get stuck in tiny cracks. Brush it on, let it dry and blast away with your air brush. After the paint is dry, just peel off the mold builder. This tip is from Amazing Figure Modeler's video series.

 

[Dan Morton]

Thanks PJ! I think I've seen some of that ETI stuff in a local hardware store. I'll try that!!

~~ and I totally agree with Mr. Springsteen!!

all the best,

dan

 

[PJ Deluhery]

Next time I see you, Dan, we can hoist an adult beverage to both red heads and Bruce! :lol:

 

[Dan Morton]

Amen brother!