Interested in sculpting but haven't tried?

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Because every beginner has probably thought these at one point...

Don't blame your sculpting compound when things don't go right
Nine times out of ten the material is fine, you're just doing something it doesn't like. Maybe the putty is too fresh, or has set too much; but a lot of the time you just need to alter the way you're trying to shape it. You're probably using something that a commercial sculptor could work with to create a commercial master, it's just an experience issue - having the right 'touch'.

Don't blame your tools when things don't go right
Most of the time the tool is not the problem, it's just that it needs to be handled in a way you aren't currently. It might simply be that you need to move it differently (e.g. press or roll to do the shaping, don't pull it through the material) or that you need to lubricate it/the putty surface a bit.

Einion
 
I use it (miliput) over everything else, as it behaves very much like clay, which is what I am used to using and can be blended/smoothed with water. After trying many others, I keep coming back to it. I only use the grey/green, not really found a need for the other colours as this does what I need!
Steve(y)
 
Mixing
Told you I was going to cover the basics! This might sound like something so basic that it doesn't need a guide but if you've ever ended up with fingers coated in wet putty and a sticky mass of soft stuff that's only 50% the size it should be, and you're not even sure it's properly mixed, then you know it's sometimes not as simple as it seems... Milliput newbies, I feel your pain.

Plus there are better and faster ways than just smooshing the two parts together (although this does work fine with some putties, especially for smaller amounts). Saving time on mixing might seem like overkill but if you sculpt in epoxies for many years you'll be doing this a lot, usually at least once each session, so there's no point in doing it more slowly than necessary.

If there are two distinct properties to the two components (the hardener being smoother and less like clay, e.g. in MagicSculp and Apoxie Sculpt) then press the smoother one into a blanket and wrap it around the softer one. Trust me, this really does make a difference! Roll it between your fingertips gently to make a small sausage. Now twist, then fold, roll into a sausage again then twist then fold. Rinse and repeat a few times. With the easier-to-mix materials like MS and AS you should be nearly done already, just roll and fold a couple more times and the putty is ready to go. I've timed it, this takes less than a minute; if you're working with a small amount you can get it done in under 30 seconds.

Alternate method for larger quantities: roll both materials into sausages, press them together then fold, roll into a sausage between your palms, roll and fold, roll and fold.

Now last thing, you think you're done because the putty is mixed? Nope: go and wash your hands! There are chemicals in epoxies that can cause severe skin irritation over time, the effects being cumulative and at worst, very severe. Since you don't know if you're one of the unlucky people who will be affected by this it's better to be cautious. So either wash your hands immediately after mixing (and minimise direct contact with the putty afterwards) or use gloves or finger cots in latex, vinyl or nitrile to prevent contact entirely.

Now, if you have to use an epoxy putty that's very sticky and you're getting too much of it adhering to your hands or gloves when you mix, lubricate 'em (see options below).

Putty is "too sticky"
Although it is hard to get used to sticky putty this is actually a good property, the thing to do is either learn to deal with it when it's at its worst, or, skip over that step in the curing process.

One common piece of advice for new users of epoxy putty who might find them too soft or sticky to begin with is to let them sit for a while after mixing before you set to work. So let the blob sit for at least a few minutes, although some recommend longer - 10 minutes up to half an hour or more. You still should have between one and three hours of good working properties depending on the epoxy you're using and the temperature.

The other main recommendation for putty that's sticking to your hands and tools is to lubricate them, or the putty surface. Lubricants to try:
talc;
water;
saliva (don't get into the habit of putting your tools directly into your mouth to moisten them);
hair conditioner;
moisturiser;
glycerine;
vegetable oil;
mineral oil;
petroleum jelly.

There are believe it or not even more things that could be added to this list but it gives you a starting point, everyone has at least two of these on hand to try :D

My view is that lubricants can be a bit of a crutch, and overuse of them can cause more problems than they solve (as well as some characteristic features in the shaped putty). But that said use them as you need to, my rule of thumb being use as much as necessary but as little as possible, especially so if you're using one of the oily options.

Kneadatite is one notable exception here as this tends to stick to tools so much that some lubrication is mandatory, but for most of the common clay-like sculpting compounds very little lubricant is actually needed if you work a certain way; as I mention above this does also depend a bit on what tools you're using.

Fingerprints in the putty getting you down?
Easy fix - don't press it into position with your fingers :) Fingerprints can be a pain to get rid of, especially if you don't notice a small area until much later in the working period when the putty has more 'rebound', where texture that has been smoothed off can return to some degree.

My main advice on these is get into the habit of moving the putty from the mixed blob on the table to the surface of the model using a sculpting tool. However, sometimes pressing the putty into position with your finger is exactly what's needed... just don't use your fingertip! Use the flat of your fingernail or your knuckle/back of the finger which have a much less evident texture, one that's not so instantly noticeable if you miss any. Or as with mixing wear gloves or finger cots.

Einion
 
Start simple/small and work up
This helps prevent getting overwhelmed and abandoning something half-done. Completing something is of course encouraging by itself but small, simpler items are easier to do well, which gives another layer of encouragement to continue and go on to your next piece.

Work in stages
Trying to do too much in one go is one of the commonest beginner mistakes; it's not necessarily the case that it's impossible to do that much in one shot, but it takes more skill and experience than you have right now.

Progressing
Most people start using putty as a gap filler and to repair small areas that were damaged or miss-cast, which is a pretty good first step in getting to know your material - anything that gets you used to working with the wet putty hands-on is a good thing. I would recommend always mixing more than you need, partly because there's nothing worse than having nearly enough to finish a task but also so that once you're done filling that gap you have some putty to play around with. Try making sacks or sandbags, a satchel or pack, a small chest, belt buckles, a pair of shoes, whatever you can think of. Even sculpting your own rocks can be good training... I've sculpted hundreds and it really did help!
Rocks_Progression.jpg

Because there's no pressure to produce anything with these kinds of practice pieces you're free to screw up without it seeming like a big deal, but do push yourself to progress on to pieces for specific uses.

Maybe the best next step is to sculpt a replacement part for one of the existing kit parts. You never know, you might be able to create something better than the original - many kit parts are made to be reliably cast, not dead-on to scale in some way, so it is sometimes possible to do a lot better if you make it yourself.

If you want to eventually be able to sculpt figures completely from scratch, like Colin advised above I would recommend that you set to work on sculpting heads. They're in many ways the hardest thing to do well, both technically in terms of all the steps necessary to shape them but also in terms of the results since it's so easy for people to spot when something is a bit wonky. Do nothing but heads for a couple of weeks/months and they won't seem that daunting any more, then you can stop agonising over them and shift your attention to other things.

Einion
 
Excellent topic! I've already bookmarked it and shown it around.

well partly you use what's available. In England, we don't have all these putties, maybe I could source them from model shows or the internet

If it helps, I've got slowly-growing list of online retailers here. Excludes ebay for the most part, but ebay's a no-brainer.

Magisculp is the 'uberputty' that I have encountered. I love the smell and it never dries out until you mix it, which is a real plus if you don't get through it too quick. I have ordered a 500g pack last time accordingly!

The odd thing with the stuff I have, is that one of the parts keeps crystallizing on me. I've had to warm it through a couple of times to soften up again.
Still a fantastic medium, though.

is milliput a good thing to use? I see it used a lot but have never tried it myself.

I started with yellow-grey as one of my first putties (with kneadatite), hated it, ignored it for a long time, then came back to it via superfine white, after seeing the kind of things others did with it. I've tried the different types, but cheap old yellow-grey is the favourite - especially fresh, before it forms a rind.
I do usually mix it with kneadatite to alter it, though. I agree with Stu and Einion that it's not the easiest putty to wrangle (almost said 'push'), especially for beginners. Still amazes me what Joaquin, Mortimer and others can do with the unadulterated stuff.
 
I do not have natural talent here...
I would like to encourage people not to think in those terms. A lot of folks who now work to a high standard in sculpting/painting/cooking or whatever started off thinking that they had no 'talent' for it, but didn't give up... most of what is perceived to be talent is just perseverance and hard work (relates to the old adage, 1% inspiration 99% perspiration).

Below is what I am attempting (no laughing please).
I think what you've done looks very good.

I went on vacation and packed this stuff up and attempted to try folds on the middle guy's right leg(way too many). Just a WIP. Trying to match 6 figures in 1/48 scale to Evolution’s awesome 1/48 SS figures (seen on the right). Menelay’s folds are insanely good and I have no idea how he does this.
Same basic way you did, only with more experience under his belt. Honestly, from what I can see in the photos you're more than halfway there, you just need to sculpt to references more, match the volume of material a bit better. But in terms of the shaping you're more advanced than you think (y)

I've taken this out of order because it's a significant point about the how-to:
But as a beginner, I still don’t have a good narrative of folds – what tools to be used for what kind’s – sharp tools for tight folds, round end tools for more general compressions, etc.

No one is obligated to share, but from a beginner’s point of view, I think this is the biggest gap in awareness. How different people get certain folding results with different tools. Do you add, remove, or push material to get the effects.
Excellent question, but no easy answer I'm afraid. The material makes a difference - more common to see removal of material in polymer clays than in epoxies, where people aim to get the volume right to begin with because of time pressures; you can definitely add and remove quite a bit during a single working session though.

But in terms of the tools and what can do what, there aren't really specific tools for specific jobs (hopefully some more sculptors will chime in on this point). Mostly it's getting to learn what can be done with what you use; eventually you get to a point where you don't think about how you'd shape something, you just use what you're holding or reach for the tool that you know will help. Sometimes it's a combo of things, e.g. mostly shaping with tool X, smoothing/refining with a Colour Shaper, feathering out transitions with a damp brush or wet fingertip.


It's hard to say precisely. Maybe around two hours. After that it just breaks to small pieces anytime I try to do something with it. It might be related to water. I use it quite often to clean my tools, fingers or smooth the surface.
That's well within the normal range. A two-hour window should give you enough time to finish a section if you plan appropriately - in other words, try to aim to do an amount you can complete in two hours. If this is just one trouser leg or one sleeve for now don't sweat it, this will improve over time.


is milliput a good thing to use? I see it used a lot but have never tried it myself.
Different strokes for different folks. I'd suggest you weigh the various attributes - user-friendliness, shelf life, cost, availability - to help decide if it's worth trying.

All the common choices in epoxies have some admirable qualities but a lot of people who have tried alternatives don't go back to Milliput, plus many early uses of it look about for various ways to modify it to improve its working character (one of the commonest being blending in some Kneadatite); definitely something to bear in mind.


The odd thing with the stuff I have, is that one of the parts keeps crystallizing on me. I've had to warm it through a couple of times to soften up again.
Still a fantastic medium, though.
Same here, starting to get it a little bit with AS too; I think it's a sign of age. Have you tried storing it in the fridge?

BTW, is the surface of your hardener discoloured also? They recommend storing that in the freezer if you don't get through your putty quickly, this is supposed to give it literally an unlimited shelf life if you can call it that when it's not on the shelf :D

Still amazes me what Joaquin, Mortimer and others can do with the unadulterated stuff.
Ditto; great example of how different approaches to the same medium can yield such different results.

Einion
 
BTW, is the surface of your hardener discoloured also? They recommend storing that in the freezer if you don't get through your putty quickly, this is supposed to give it literally an unlimited shelf life if you can call it that when it's not on the shelf :D

No, just crystallized! It happened not long after I bought it, so I guess it was sitting around on a shelf.
 
I would like to encourage people not to think in those terms. A lot of folks who now work to a high standard in sculpting/painting/cooking or whatever started off thinking that they had no 'talent' for it, but didn't give up... most of what is perceived to be talent is just perseverance and hard work (relates to the old adage, 1% inspiration 99% perspiration).

Understand your point. Some people make it look easy. Trying to shorten the learning curve as much as possible though with limited time to dedicate to the hobby. Good Point.

I think what you've done looks very good.

Thank you for the engouragment. I'll keep trying as I know you are being overly kind.

you just need to sculpt to references more, match the volume of material a bit better.
This is helpful. Thank you for that. Now I just need to learn how to do it.

Phil
 
I would encourage everyone who has a mind to, to try sculpting. It is a wonderfully creative activity! To watch a piece evolve in your hand is the most rewarding thing imaginable!

But try not to get bogged down in the semantics of one putty against another. My advise would be choose a putty and learn how to sculpt using that one. After all there are many sculptors out there that use all different putties and Polymers and get great results, and swear by it. I guess what I'm saying is, it's about the skills of the sculptor not the putty.

As for tools. I use dentist tools, but there are many that make there own and get great results. So you see how difficlt it is to explain.
There is NO magic bean or pill that gives you the required skills. It's hard work, experience, dedication etc. To use a golf analogy Tiger Woods could take a £20 driver and still hit the ball 350 yards. It about the skill of the man hold the club, tool, mixing the putty etc.

As for the key ingredients to sculpting. (I have said this several times before on a previous threads).
1 Proportions.
2 Anatomy.
3 Detail. Without the first 2 the detail is meaningless!

In my opinion what make a great figure is the movement and life of a piece. To make a piece live and breath is where the skill comes into it. Those are the skills can not always be taught. But are leant by the sculptor over years. There is NO fast track to this! It takes years of poeple studying, Watching how they stand, walk, run, sit, laugh, smile etc. Then of course comes the drapery and different materials how they hang and react to certain movements. This all has to be put togther to tell the story!

But to begin sculpting for the first time is the first step of a great journey, and I encourage everyone to try it. Even if you realise it's not for you. At least you have tried! After all, you have nothing to lose and evrything to gain!!!

If I can help anyone along the way I will! Just contact me!

Carl
 
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