Modelling Water! (Clips).

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TURNCOAT? A shocking suggestion! ..:LOL:

If it fit's wear it! and add to it. Maybe a 'combo', of the products suggested. :whistle:


Watch out for the teeth!

evil-squirrel.jpg.:cautious:


Mark.
 
Hi All

Back to modelling water me thinks..........OK I am currently constructing a steampunk pier scene with the Scale 75 figure of Captain Ahab.

I bought the resin water product from Vallejo, but found in tests that the mixture had a tendency to shrink; so I too searched the internet and came across a product called Solid Water from Deluxe. It comes in two parts that you mix together. It needs a mound to form in and I created this with strips of perspex (super glued at the corners and reinforced with a string of silicone sealant) that I covered with a layer of vaseline to stop the setting resin sticking. I removed the mound frame when the resin was part cured. This was to a depth of some 5mm and I coloured the water with acrylics as I was looking for muddy, dirty water around the pier.

When set I used Mod Podge (great name) to create waves and movement on the surface of the water. Use Mod Podge thinly and build up realistic swirls and waves over time. The foam on the tips of the waves I did with a Vallejo product called Foam and Snow.

I hope this is of help.

Mark
 
Mark! ..

Did you use successive layers of this Vallejo?, to build depth, and still found the shrinkage to be an issue?

Very interested to know about this aspect.
( of this product)

Mark.
 
Wow, I found this very interesting. Just thought I'd
mention that I use food colouring that I buy in the
cake box section of the grocery store. It come in tubes
of yellow, blue, red, and green. Naturally, if you mix
the Blue with the red, you get violet, such as what you
might want to coat a 1:35th scale clear styrene wine
bottle. Rick
 
Wow, I found this very interesting. Just thought I'd
mention that I use food colouring that I buy in the
cake box section of the grocery store. It come in tubes
of yellow, blue, red, and green. Naturally, if you mix
the Blue with the red, you get violet, such as what you
might want to coat a 1:35th scale clear styrene wine
bottle. Rick

Rick.(y).

A damn interesting concept. for (Matt/Gloss) varnish as well as this 'Water'. .. This has me thinking that much more..:D

Regards,

Mark.
 
Tubby-Nuts2 Mark! ..
Did you use successive layers of this Vallejo?, to build depth, and still found the shrinkage to be an issue?
Very interested to know about this aspect.
( of this product)
Mark.
New


Yes I did Mark, very thin layers of Vallejo Still Water and poured them into a old yoghurt pot. The resin kept its shape whilst setting, but during the curing and hardening phase, it shrank in volume and came away from the sides of the pot.

Mark
 
Magic water is extremely soft when cured and will scratch easily. I might help to put a final layer of "Future" on the top after it has cured. I have used this wood table top resin from Art and Craft stores. It is a 50/50 mix resin.
k2-_4bb8aa25-412d-4e06-b7a0-f2004689b949.v1.jpg

Cheers
John
 
So I take it that most of these products suffer from shrinkage. Which is dependant upon depth! however if this is known, is the idea of over compensating on the initial amount a valid thought. Then cap it off later??

Mark.
 
So I take it that most of these products suffer from shrinkage. Which is dependant upon depth! however if this is known, is the idea of over compensating on the initial amount a valid thought. Then cap it off later??

Mark.


Not having an ology in the subject but if you have to build the depth up in layers. I assume you wait for layer No1 to dry then pour layer No2. So in pouring layer No.2 you would back fill any shrinkage in layer No.1. So forth and so forth. Plus would you get a better result if you pour into a more solid/less giving mould and non porous.

Just my thought for the day
Mick
 
Not having an ology in the subject but if you have to build the depth up in layers. I assume you wait for layer No1 to dry then pour layer No2. So in pouring layer No.2 you would back fill any shrinkage in layer No.1. So forth and so forth. Plus would you get a better result if you pour into a more solid/less giving mould and non porous.

Just my thought for the day
Mick

Mick, whoever did this piece has my admiration! plus a 1000 questions. How deep??? , and yet flawless!

1.jpg.13.jpg.:eek:

Mark.
 
Honest answer.........I have tried to avoid large areas of water since childhood!

I use epoxy for puddles....and leave the experts to the big stuff......like this guy.....has to be the master of water IMHO....



Apart from I cannot understand a word he says! ... Which could be vital.:LOL:

Mark
 
It has got a floor. Its called a 'seabed' in nautical terms.. You will have to get to the bottom of it:hilarious: find out who and how it was done.
Mick

Who am I? Sherlock Squirrel. ??:LOL: That's a hard task.:D...

I will concentrate, only on, Ankle to 'Knee-Deep', as regards depth! and that is @ 120mm (1/16).:whistle:

Mark
 
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