frog
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing
Dave
Dave
Naps References covering PAINTING/MIXES & SCULPTING
- Thread starter Nap
- Start date
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BRAN
PlanetFigure Supporter
Thanks for sharing Kev, I will try to make a pdf of it which will be convenient to view on my tablet....
Reds ....using Citadel colours
This is a good SBS using a specific paint ..Scale Colour
Nap
Nap
sd0324
A Fixture
This is probably my favorite thread on this whole forum. Thanks Kevin.
Steve
Steve
santi fernandez
Well-Known Member
A great job of studying and collecting data when painting skin tones.
Santi.
Santi.
These might be of use to members
Nap
Nap
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Hi everyone that uses OILS
Great SBS from PF member
From his excellent V bench https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/young-miniatures-arabian-knight-bust.694685/watch
Great SBS from PF member
From his excellent V bench https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/young-miniatures-arabian-knight-bust.694685/watch
Also from Phil ....Hands 
Note as these are screen pics ...the link to colours obviously won’t work ...the details of colours are in the face post above this
Note as these are screen pics ...the link to colours obviously won’t work ...the details of colours are in the face post above this
This SBS is from Tom Williams of the North Texas Figure Club
Eyes
I said I would post a SBS on the next bust I painted.Lets start with the eyes. Flesh acrylic undercoat. Mixture of red and flesh acrylic paint overall on the eyes. From here on, we use oils. Medium gray on the “whites” of the eyes. (That’s the part you want to see before you fire) Lighter gray across the middle from side to side. Don’t let the real shiny finish scare you. It will tone down when it dries. Up close, the impression is that the grays are to dark. The last picture gives a more realistic view. Once we put in the irises, it will all snap into context and you might wonder if you got it too light. More to come.
Eyes chapter 2.
They say they don’t know what color eyes Robert had but that it was probably brown eyes and hair. I prefer painting eyes that stand out better like blue, green or gray. But sometimes you don’t have the option. So brown it is.
Start with a dark brown. When that’s dry, fill the center up to the edge of the dark brown with a lighter brown. Make it lighter than you normally see in brown eyes so it will be visible. This guy is squinting a little so there’s not as much room to work with as there might be so no where to actually highlight the brown. Add pupils with pure black. The final touch is the catch light in pure white. For this, I use a needle mounted in a pin vice. Now, the only way to get comfortable painting eyes is to do it…..a lot. I’ve found that this method of painting increasingly smaller areas has made it a lot easier for me.
Take it slow and steady and, in the words of the great Shep Paine, “When you think it needs one more brush stroke…..it doesn’t”.
Nap
Eyes
I said I would post a SBS on the next bust I painted.Lets start with the eyes. Flesh acrylic undercoat. Mixture of red and flesh acrylic paint overall on the eyes. From here on, we use oils. Medium gray on the “whites” of the eyes. (That’s the part you want to see before you fire) Lighter gray across the middle from side to side. Don’t let the real shiny finish scare you. It will tone down when it dries. Up close, the impression is that the grays are to dark. The last picture gives a more realistic view. Once we put in the irises, it will all snap into context and you might wonder if you got it too light. More to come.
They say they don’t know what color eyes Robert had but that it was probably brown eyes and hair. I prefer painting eyes that stand out better like blue, green or gray. But sometimes you don’t have the option. So brown it is.
Start with a dark brown. When that’s dry, fill the center up to the edge of the dark brown with a lighter brown. Make it lighter than you normally see in brown eyes so it will be visible. This guy is squinting a little so there’s not as much room to work with as there might be so no where to actually highlight the brown. Add pupils with pure black. The final touch is the catch light in pure white. For this, I use a needle mounted in a pin vice. Now, the only way to get comfortable painting eyes is to do it…..a lot. I’ve found that this method of painting increasingly smaller areas has made it a lot easier for me.
Take it slow and steady and, in the words of the great Shep Paine, “When you think it needs one more brush stroke…..it doesn’t”.
Nap
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Face .....
Now the face. This guy doesn’t show a lot of face but there’s enough to play with for our purposes. I paint flesh with oils only and the colors I lay out are burnt umber, mars brown, mars orange, white, deep red and an Old Holland color called medium pink. I name the last one specifically because it’s exclusive to Old Holland and the basis for my flesh mix. Start by mixing medium pink with mars orange about 80/20. Put a spot of burnt umber in the nostrils and in the corner where the brow meets the bridge of the nose and then anywhere else you want a deep shadow. Lay mars brown in any where else you want shadows. Blend these along the edges where they meet. Always use a clean, dry brush for this. If there is a hint of thinner in it, it will cut right through the paint so don’t do it. Cover the rest of the flesh area with the basic flesh mix. Blend it again. Take a small spot of red and apply to the tip of the nose, at the back of the cheek bones and the temples. Work it directly into the paint you put it on top of. Now, mix a very light highlight color with the basic flesh and white. Apply this in small amounts to any area you want highlighted. Bridge and tip of the nose, top of the cheekbones top of the cheeks and forehead if it’s available. Do it again. Keep going until you’re happy. For the lips, mix some red with the basic flesh and apply a darker shade to the upper lip and a lighter shade to the bottom. You can nitpick it all you want but that is the basic procedure. Enjoy.
ENJOY
Nap
Now the face. This guy doesn’t show a lot of face but there’s enough to play with for our purposes. I paint flesh with oils only and the colors I lay out are burnt umber, mars brown, mars orange, white, deep red and an Old Holland color called medium pink. I name the last one specifically because it’s exclusive to Old Holland and the basis for my flesh mix. Start by mixing medium pink with mars orange about 80/20. Put a spot of burnt umber in the nostrils and in the corner where the brow meets the bridge of the nose and then anywhere else you want a deep shadow. Lay mars brown in any where else you want shadows. Blend these along the edges where they meet. Always use a clean, dry brush for this. If there is a hint of thinner in it, it will cut right through the paint so don’t do it. Cover the rest of the flesh area with the basic flesh mix. Blend it again. Take a small spot of red and apply to the tip of the nose, at the back of the cheek bones and the temples. Work it directly into the paint you put it on top of. Now, mix a very light highlight color with the basic flesh and white. Apply this in small amounts to any area you want highlighted. Bridge and tip of the nose, top of the cheekbones top of the cheeks and forehead if it’s available. Do it again. Keep going until you’re happy. For the lips, mix some red with the basic flesh and apply a darker shade to the upper lip and a lighter shade to the bottom. You can nitpick it all you want but that is the basic procedure. Enjoy.
ENJOY
Nap
