Naps References covering PAINTING/MIXES & SCULPTING

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These details are from PF member MIKE STEVENS from USA when he is painting the Andrea Miniatures French Hussar bust

Gold lace

Quote " I’ll follow Cartachi’s model on painting the lace.

The lower part of each section will be darker. The upper portion will be lighter.

I’ll use black and Dark Prussian Blue to outline each piece of lace.

Then just start it. Lower left side first, then lower left and same for the top.

The lace on the dolman with be painted over a couple of days, so I’ll use two mixes of paint that are close to each other in the same range. Totally randomised

I’ll actually use a touch of gold metallic on the lace at strategic point to give the illusion of gold thread.

Here’s a picture of the Vallejo Colors I’ll use to paint gold lace" Unquote

IMG_1948.JPG
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In stages

IMG_2047.JPG IMG_2046.JPG IMG_2044.JPG IMG_2045.JPG
 
Hi everyone

Gold lace .....from a artist called PAXTRI VACAS


Base: Ochre Brown + a tip of Mahogany Wood ink

Lights: Golden Brown + Ice Yellow

Shadows: Mahogany wood and timely washes mixing with black

Pure gold paint on buttons and once dry washed with Mahogany Wood

The result

IMG_1958.JPG
IMG_1959.JPG


Nap
 
From Stelios

Using Gen 3 AK

AK-Interactive Flesh and Skin Colors Set AK11621

Base Flesh AK11401
Light Flesh AK11402
Highlight Flesh AK11403
Shadow Flesh AK11404
Dark Shadow Flesh AK11405
Reddish Black (Cheekbone Glaze) AK11406

To alternate the Base Flesh AK11401 you can add Light Orange AK11077 and so you will have a lighter Base Color Hue. You can go on with the others hues of the set as with previously did with the Base Flesh color of the set.
You can start also with Beige Red AK11064 as Base Color hue and go on with the others hue of the set as used with the Base Flesh.
You can play with the proportions so you can make a lot of different Flesh Shades.
It is easy! Try it!
IMG_3422.JPG
 
Another from Stelios showing base colours

The Instagram cut the letters so .....

1. AK-Interactive Base Flesh AK11401
2. Vallejo Panzer Aces Base Flesh 341
3. Vallejo Model Color Flat Flesh 955


Nap

IMG_3449.JPG
 
Thanks to PF member Canoehead ( Brian Wildfong ) for agreeing to put this flesh SBS here

Painting begins - aka the “Ugly Stages”.

Ugly Stage #1: Over the acrylic undercoat, I first apply Burnt Sienna oils into the major areas of shadow:IMG_3460.JPG

UglyStage #2: I add Titanium White (approx. 70%) to the Burnt Sienna (approx. 30%) and apply this mix to the major highlight areas:
IMG_3461.JPG

Ugly Stage #3: Highlight and shadow blocks are blended, generally along their edges, although sometimes two adjacent blocks will get blended together entirely
IMG_3462.JPG

Painting continueth- the Less Ugly Stages (hopefully!):

Less Ugly Stage #1: With the basic flesh laid in, I went back and added contrast back in by blending some Mars Brown into selected shadow areas (ex. under the eyebrows, outlining the eyelids, around the nostrils, in the ears)
and added more Titanium White to my highlight mix and applied it to some of the high points (ex. eyelids, cheekbones, protruding parts of the ears, nose & nostrils):
IMG_3463.JPG

Less Ugly Stage #2: Began working my way around the face with small amounts of colour. Some deep shadows got small amounts of Raw Umber, selected highlights got almost pure White (90% + 10% Burnt Sienna). The lower lip got a base of Burnt Sienna + Cadmium Red with small “cracks” added with alternating thin lines of Pink and Raw Umber. The eyeballs got filled in with Raw Umber ( more on this later)
IMG_3464.JPG

LessUgly Stage #3: The lower cheeks got darkened a bit more and I blended very tiny amounts of Cadmium Red on the lower tip of the nose, along the sides of the nose, the temples, the earlobes and under the cheekbones, wherever there might be a concentration of blood vessels just under the skin:

IMG_3465.JPG IMG_3466.JPG

Eyes are up next.

Started by mixing up a light grey acrylic and filling in the eyeballs, leaving a very thin line of the raw umber around the perimeter of the eye, representing the shadow cast by the eyelids:
IMG_3467.JPG

Added the iris using black acrylic to make a circle in each eyeball. It’s actually about 80% of a circle since the top part is hidden by the upper eyelid. Hardest part is trying to get them both the same size and oriented correctly relative to one another so it doesn’t look walleyed or cross eyed:
IMG_3468.JPG

Mixed up a dull bluish- grey and filled in the irises, leaving a thin ring of the black around the outside of the iris. I usually use blue for the iris since it gives a nice contrast with that black outer border but other colours work, too:
IMG_3469.JPG

I add a bit of white to the bluish-grey from the last step and use it to go over the bottom half of each iris to give the eyeball a bit of dimension:
IMG_3470.JPG

The final step is to add the pupil. I use a tiny dot of black oil paint so if I screw up, I can remove it without affecting the acrylics underneath. Since the eyeball is partly covered by the eyelid, the pupil is also not completely round but slightly covered by the eyelid shadow as well:
IMG_3471.JPG IMG_3472.JPG

I finished up the eyes and got going on the beard.....

Mixed up a pinkish flesh tone and applied it to the lower eyelid and eye bag. Also put a tiny spot of Cadmium Red in the corners of each eye:
IMG_3473.JPG

Added the catchlight with a tiny spot of Titanium White. I mixed a lighter blue and put a tiny speck of it on the lower iris on the opposite side from the catchlight as well. The eyebrows were done with closely spaced tiny lines of Burnt Umber oil colour applied with a finely-pointed brush:
IMG_3474.JPG

Pretty happy with the final result: tired and with that “thousand yard stare” vibe
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THANK YOU BRIAN

Nap
 
Painting YELLOW by Georgios Galazoulas


Colours used:
Base: Flat yellow ( Vallejo model colors)
Shadows: 1st gold yellow ( Vallejo game colors)
2. Cavalry brown ( Vallejo model colors)

Hope you like it!

IMG_3442.JPG


Thank you Georgios
 
Another great addition to a fountain of knowledge. Thank you too Kevin for this thread. I've been painting a while and still learning from these posts.

Steve
 
Rifle Green as used by member MaccaG

There may be an easier recipe, but my basecoat consisted of
Phthalo Green (Kimera)
Carbon Black (Kimera)
Black Green (Vallejo)
English Uniform (Vallejo)
Olive Green (Jo Sonja)
Storm Blue (Jo Sonja)

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Nap
 
yes,see this also and it's very interesting for me,because I use these 'acryl) very good references
maybe finally I can paint a face now LOL :)

Thanks a lot

Mario
 
Mix for flesh as used by PF member Dr Force ( Dave ) ....thanks to him for permission

Terra Rose, Indigo Blue, Titanium White, Buff and yellow ochre.

I always start with a grey primer base coat followed by Vallejo “flat flesh” once dry I block in some of the darker spots with a few layers of Vallejo Brown Rose.

This helps with guidance of the first few mixes of oils that are a tad transparent to begin with. I leave the oils on a card for about 20 mins, I do this to take away the gloss but to leave the sheen.

If it was on clothing I’d leave for a good hour so we draw out the oil and produce a Matt finish when mixed.

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You can see the results in Dave’s excellent V Bench here : https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/1-9-bmw-r75-crew-ardennes-1944.624878/

Nap
 
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