Paint removal from old kit.

[Nick Majerus]

I was given this old kit and wanted to remove the old. I placed the figure in a can full of Brake Fluid. I left it sit for 6 days. I removed it and scrubbed it with a wire brush. Then washed it with soapy water. I should have taken a before and after picture. It worked out well, and will now prime it.

 

[yellowcat]

Good Job! Next time try Super Clean degreaser. It only takes couple of hours or less to strip the paint off the figure and is biodegradable. The figure is from the Phoenix Follies Atlantis Series #AX-02 Female Warrior with pet cobra sculpted by Tim Richards for Phoenix Model Developments.

 

[Nap]

Nice one Nick and another option from Felix as well

Always liked the Phoenix figures , look forward to seeing this painted ...don't forget to share the others you've recently painted !

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[Viking Bob]

I use Dettol which takes a few hours. Leave to soak in undiluted Dettol, scrub lightly with a toothbrush and it comes off with ease. Oil paints I soak over night.

 

[theBaron]

...Next time try Super Clean degreaser...

Second that. I don't know how available it is outside of North America, but for anyone in the US or Canada, I recommend SuperClean. In my experience, it softens and dissolves paint within minutes. The longer the soak, the more paint will dissolve into the solution. Sometimes you can see the solvent work.

It can be used over and over, which is an advantage over other products, especially oven cleaners. I fill glass jars of different sizes to soak pieces.
I have also used it, applied with a paint-brush, to spot-strip paint to correct mistakes, without having to strip all the paint off.

I use it with metal, resin, and styrene. I have not seen any ill effects on any of those materials. It will weaken glue bonds, but that's an added benefit for me, since I usually strip paint from old figures I've purchased.

Also, as a de-greaser, it can be used around the home, too.

And at around eight bucks a gallon, that makes it a real bargain. I buy mine at WalMart, in the automotive supply section.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Nick Majerus]

Lots of good advice and help for us in the hobby! I hope mine turns out as nice as the one "Yellowcat" painted!

 

[Mirofsoft]

Next times us this one, faster

realy : brake fluid, and WIRE brush .....
Coca ( you knola ) or oven cleaner, and tooth brush is enough

 

[Viking Bob]

The good thing about Dettol is it's an antiseptic when diluted, again you can use around the house and it doesn't peel skin like oven cleaner.

 

[Warren SMITH]

I use oven cleaner, the smell takes your breath away.. I will get some dettol..

 

[Martin Antonenko]

Next times us this one, faster

This guy guy doesn't know how to use tools properly! This is best...:




Cheers

 

[Tecumsea]

I tried Dettol on an oil painted figure and ended up with a sticky mess. I binned the Dettol and the figure.

Keith

 

[Viking Bob]

I tried Dettol on an oil painted figure and ended up with a sticky mess. I binned the Dettol and the figure.

Keith

I have had problems with black spray uncoat which is a bugger to remove but dried off and started again. I have at best a small amount of the undercoat left on the figure but its usable and sprayed again. No problems.
It maybe that I use a white undercoat, it's removed easier.

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

For stripping acrylic paint I don't think anything will beat Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer. It's expensive, about $30 per liter but.... you need very little of it and it's re-usable. I purchased a liter about a year and a half ago and still have more than half of it remaining. It's great advantage is that it's fast. All you need is a little restorer and a toothbrush to strip a figure in just a few minutes, no time consuming soaking is required. And the fact that it will also clean those old stiff brushes you forgot to clean thoroughly is another plus.

'Course the most effective cleaner is not to make any mistakes in painting to begin with --- I should live so long.

Rick

 

[theBaron]

For stripping acrylic paint I don't think anything will beat Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer. It's expensive, about $30 per liter but.... you need very little of it and it's re-usable. I purchased a liter about a year and a half ago and still have more than half of it remaining. It's great advantage is that it's fast...

That's the same experience I have with SuperClean. I first tried using it after I saw a post on a modeling forum about using it to strip the chrome from Tamiya's chromed P-51D kit. I used it to strip the chrome from the chromed parts in the old Monogram Red Baron hot rod (Advanced Modeler Syndrome-I decided I had to clean the sprue gates and seams. That meant removing the chrome). I literally watched as the chrome dissolved into the solution, and in 2 minutes, the parts were completely stripped. Then I tried it to strip paint and got similar results, that most of the paint was removed within several minutes, or softened to the point that it comes away with a gentle scrubbing with an old toothbrush. I keep batches of it in glass jars of various sizes, and use a batch till it gets completely opaque.

I don't strip paint to fix mistakes, though; I buy a lot of old figures and I strip them down to the bare material, before cleaning them up, fixing them (broken plumes, etc) and priming.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Wayneb]

I tried Dettol on an oil painted figure and ended up with a sticky mess. I binned the Dettol and the figure.

Keith

I said " f..k it" and used it for target practice....

 

[Bundook]

Dettol stinks the place out. The "paint stripping" ingredients in Dettol are isopropyl alcohol and caustic soda. I've found that just the alcohol alone whips the paint off polythene and metal figures, and is not quite so smelly. Enamel and acrylic paint falls off in disgusting gloopy sheets, and an old toothbrush can help clean out nooks and crannies. Only ever used it on toy soldiers, though, so try it on your expensive kit figures at your own risk.

 

[Bundook]

The figure is from the Phoenix Follies Atlantis Series

The local model shop in the 80s (now long since out of business) had those in their display with the "eye catching" parts "clothed" with discreetly applied bits of masking tape.

 

[balder]

I’ve used 99% isopropyl alcohol on resin and plastic and found that it works very well.
-Gerald