Primer adhesion on metal figures

[Russ]

Hey, all -

I'm working on a couple of metal figures, at the priming stage. I'm having some minor challenge with adhesion. Both are primed with Krylon Indoor/Outdoor spray can primer (flat black). Here are the deets:

One is the Pegaso Tuscan Knight. Already into the painting, it seems that the paint layer is very fragile; the slightest bump or abrasion shows all the way through to the metal (yes, I know, it's shiny. But the same handling on resin figures/busts doesn't show the base material).

The other is the Scale75 Crusader in Battle. This one, I primed just yesterday, and it's showing some - I don't know ... shrinkage? No flakes coming off, that I can see.

Does any of that sound like an issue with initial cleaning? With the base material? The type/brand of primer? The thickness of application?

I don't expect a primer layer (or a final paint layer, for that matter) to be bullet-proof, but I'm surprised they're so fragile. Any thoughts, ideas, &/or help will be appreciated!!

 

[Warren SMITH]

I'm no expert.. did you clean the figures up before priming.. did you shake the can of primer correctly.. Is the paint old. how many layers of primer did you use.. did you allow correct drying time..
Perhaps try a different primer, making sure its ok for use on metal figures.. I use Dulux steel primer, its a red oxide colour. I did find an issue with one can of paint, but just replaced it.. I use it on all my figures, plastic, metal, resin... then when dry I use a matt white undercoat...

If any of this helps..

 

[Martin64]

Second problems with acrylic based primers adhesion on white metal. I likewise recommend a steel primer. Cheers Martin

 

[Helm]

I always use an automotive primer, over there Advance Auto or similar type of place. They're usually cheaper than modelling products and IMO as good if not better.
Steve

 

[theBaron]

I used to use automotive primers, like Rustoleum's, and Walmart's house brand. They were a little rougher than primers made for scale modeling, but they did adhere well, and provided good "tooth" for the color coats. And they were cheaper by volume than using primers made for modeling. But both brands changed the design of their caps and the paint started clogging, not just in the nozzle (drilling out the aperture was one workaround) but in the neck of the can. The last cans I had wound up clogged beyond clearing, with half the paint still in the can.

I've switched fully to using Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer, on figures as well as models, on resin, metal, and styrene. It's more expensive by volume than the other brands, but I have had no problems with primer adhesion or with paint adhering to the primer. I would use that, instead.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

I used to use automotive primers, like Rustoleum's, and Walmart's house brand. They were a little rougher than primers made for scale modeling, but they did adhere well, and provided good "tooth" for the color coats. And they were cheaper by volume than using primers made for modeling. But both brands changed the design of their caps and the paint started clogging, not just in the nozzle (drilling out the aperture was one workaround) but in the neck of the can. The last cans I had wound up clogged beyond clearing, with half the paint still in the can.

I've switched fully to using Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer, on figures as well as models, on resin, metal, and styrene. It's more expensive by volume than the other brands, but I have had no problems with primer adhesion or with paint adhering to the primer. I would use that, instead.

Prost!
Brad

Couldn't agree with Brad more. Use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. You'll get a smoother painting surface and you won't have to worry about adhesion.
Rick

 

[David Spencer]

I never bother with primer.
Just add an extra coat of the relevant base colour on each feature.

 

[Alex]

For metal, you absolutely need to prepare the surface : manual abrasion or chemical one (self etching primer)
Manual is easier and safer : use a sanding sponge, sand paper or sanding pad.
Also the surface should be free of any grease including natural oils from your hands so degrease the surface before priming and wear gloves.
Use a lacquer primer (Tamiya, Mr Hobby, automobile one, etc.)

 

[Nap]

Wise words from many here

Might I suggest a picture to show if you have further questions ......as they say a pictures worth a thousand words ..lol

Look forward to seeing what your working on

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[theBaron]

I never bother with primer.
Just add an extra coat of the relevant base colour on each feature.

Priming also serves to show any flaws that I want to fix, before I start laying down my finish color coats. So instead of using those colors, and having to paint over the area again after fixing things, wasting that paint, the primer serves that purpose.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Blind Pew]

If it helps people in the UK, I've used Halfords white primer for years. I swear it's the same stuff as the much more expensive Games Workshop primer.

 

[Mart]

I’ve no experience with metal figures but for ‘white metal’ 1/43 car bodies I’ve always had good results with automotive ‘etch’ primer or Tamiya or Mr Hobby metal primer (followed by Mr Surfacer).

 

[bigtodd]

For metal, you absolutely need to prepare the surface : manual abrasion or chemical one (self etching primer)
Manual is easier and safer : use a sanding sponge, sand paper or sanding pad.
Also the surface should be free of any grease including natural oils from your hands so degrease the surface before priming and wear gloves.
Use a lacquer primer (Tamiya, Mr Hobby, automobile one, etc.)

Follow everything Alex said.