Gaudin
A Fixture
Fair enough.
WIP Critique Pushing myself
- Thread starter BarrieHynd
- Start date
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Wayneb
A Fixture
A simple reply is to visualize yourself in the position or action that you want portray and use it as a guideline,but you still have to nail the anatomy and that comes with visualization also.Don't put the cart before the horse,IE:..Don't put in too much detail until you are comfortable with the pose.Sorry to confuse you more but trying to help.
Dan Morton
A Fixture
I agree with Wayneb's post above. I realize this is probably not what you want to hear. Learning from critique ain't pleasant, but it can work. Don't get discouraged, but really you're trying to add details when you need to nail the anatomy and establish in your head a very clear idea of what you want the figure to look like when completed. If you have a clear idea of the final figure now, can you provide us a drawing or photo?
The 'kilt and legs' photo below looks too broad in the butt and waist.
Your 'armature' posted earlier was a good start. Suggest you return to that point for a bit. The waist needs to be narrowed, the hips narrowed and the shoulders rounded. Add pectoral muscles to the chest and shoulder muscles. You don't need a lot of detail on the armature and no extraneous depth or thickness. Remember to keep it skinny. When you think you've got it, smooth the surfaces with steel wool, so the clothing and equipment will go on and fit properly.
If you are using kit parts for any part of the final figure, hold them in the proper positions on the armature if you can just to get an idea of how they will OR won't fit.
Before you go any further, put the entire armature in the position you want the figure to be in and secure all the joints and the waist. Personally I put the head and boots on the armature at this point, but others do not. I never add the arms until all other parts of the body, clothing and equipment have been put on.
Since your Scot will be wearing equipment, you have to allow space and depth to make it look right. Skinny armatures are part of the answer to getting this right. Another part is having enough reference photos to know how much space all the equipment takes up once the figure is 'wearing' it. I've provided a few reference photos. Remember that if you are doing an action pose, you need to adjust the equipment to the correct positions - not now - just something to remember when you go to that step.
I can't tell how you secured the armature to the base, but make sure the armature is on good and tight. Most use wire running through the skeleton of the armature, through the foot (boot) and out the bottom of one or both boots into the base. You'll inevitably be pushing on the armature as you sculpt and cut and if it isn't secure, a black cloud will appear over your head and (again, just speaking for myself) you'll say some of those words.
I recommend that you concentrate on the armature and re-post photos of it from several angles.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Dan
The 'kilt and legs' photo below looks too broad in the butt and waist.
Your 'armature' posted earlier was a good start. Suggest you return to that point for a bit. The waist needs to be narrowed, the hips narrowed and the shoulders rounded. Add pectoral muscles to the chest and shoulder muscles. You don't need a lot of detail on the armature and no extraneous depth or thickness. Remember to keep it skinny. When you think you've got it, smooth the surfaces with steel wool, so the clothing and equipment will go on and fit properly.
If you are using kit parts for any part of the final figure, hold them in the proper positions on the armature if you can just to get an idea of how they will OR won't fit.
Before you go any further, put the entire armature in the position you want the figure to be in and secure all the joints and the waist. Personally I put the head and boots on the armature at this point, but others do not. I never add the arms until all other parts of the body, clothing and equipment have been put on.
Since your Scot will be wearing equipment, you have to allow space and depth to make it look right. Skinny armatures are part of the answer to getting this right. Another part is having enough reference photos to know how much space all the equipment takes up once the figure is 'wearing' it. I've provided a few reference photos. Remember that if you are doing an action pose, you need to adjust the equipment to the correct positions - not now - just something to remember when you go to that step.
I can't tell how you secured the armature to the base, but make sure the armature is on good and tight. Most use wire running through the skeleton of the armature, through the foot (boot) and out the bottom of one or both boots into the base. You'll inevitably be pushing on the armature as you sculpt and cut and if it isn't secure, a black cloud will appear over your head and (again, just speaking for myself) you'll say some of those words.
I recommend that you concentrate on the armature and re-post photos of it from several angles.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Dan
Attachments
Scotty
A Fixture
How is this coming along Barrie, any further forward?
Scotty.
Scotty.
Mike S.
A Fixture
My method for replicating both knife and box pleated backs of kilts in miniature (and I own 8 kilts myself as someone who is both of Scottish ancestry, and a GHB piper of over 30 years) is to use a fine, rice paper carefully folded, slightly dampened to mold it around the back, and then "set" with and application of either liquid sprue or very thin CA glue.
I then use A&B or Milliput epoxy to model the apron in the front.
I then use A&B or Milliput epoxy to model the apron in the front.
Scotty
A Fixture
Hi Mike, I'd heard of that method before, would it work in 1:9 or 1:12?
Mike S.
A Fixture
Hi Scotty,
Even better. I've used it on scales ranging from 1:35th all the way up to 100mm, varying the thickness of paper used to adjust for scale of course. It is the most convincing way to depict the pleats, fanned or at rest.
Even better. I've used it on scales ranging from 1:35th all the way up to 100mm, varying the thickness of paper used to adjust for scale of course. It is the most convincing way to depict the pleats, fanned or at rest.
BarrieHynd
A Fixture
Hello guy's and thank you all for the useful suggestions on how to go about this.
The truth is , this project has stalled quite a bit due to life getting in the way which has resulted in maybe only a couple of hours bench time a week.
So, I don't have much to show on this at the moment but when I have something worthwhile pics will be posted.
Again, thanks for the messages and pics, much appreciated.
Barrie.
The truth is , this project has stalled quite a bit due to life getting in the way which has resulted in maybe only a couple of hours bench time a week.
So, I don't have much to show on this at the moment but when I have something worthwhile pics will be posted.
Again, thanks for the messages and pics, much appreciated.
Barrie.
Ybrossculpts
PlanetFigure Supporter
I don't know about the top picture, it looks a bit like the wifes backside 
Chris.
Chris.
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