Question on Bill Horan painting steps?

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Brock Beckstedt

New Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2014
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3
Thanks for any ideas on understanding some steps by Bill Horan painting with enamels here is my not understanding, he talks or explains to mix to a thin transparency tintage hue but nowhere in the book does it say about useing thinners is this a giving has anyone follow or no of his procedures on the book of military modelling he wrote(step by step) face mixes (3)shadows and (2)hights no words about thinning or thinners can anyone help me out here?Brock
 
I think that the word thinners is not to apply turpentine to a face you have just painted,as this would remove your carefull paint job.but is to wait till the paint has dried and then apply a wash, which is paint thinned down to almost a water like substance and apply to the face to give a slight tint of colour./badger
 
Hello Brock, Bill uses Humbrol paints for his flesh colors, Try using Humbrol thinner for your tinted highlights, and shadows. You have to wait for the washes to dry before applying the next one. A hand held hair dryer comes in handy for this. Bill's glazing technique is very hard to duplicate, patience is the key between blends. Hope this helps. Regards, SG
 
Thank you!Badger and Sturm, as I perdicted it was humbrol thinner but as i look throughtout the book no mention of thinners so I'am glad I had ask because for the study of figure painting by Bill Horan, Joe Rosengrant are what I strive for now with this information I can get started perfecting this art as I have a lot to do pratice,pratice and some more as I feel like now I may come with questions and will get some help thanks for the help once again. Brock Beckstedt 1/35 scale diorama builder and a student of the arts
 
Brock, I only use Humbrol enamels for everything. Just make sure that everything is completely dry before adding washes/glazes, overpainting, etc otherwise it will pick up the base layer. This is even more so if you have to add a wash over a wash, as the thinners makes the colours take longer to dry. Also, do not try to put a wash over metallics - just don't!!

I used to seal my painting with thinned satin/gloss varnish before adding washes/glazes, although the new washes Humbrol do tend to negate this process.

I hope this helps,

Steve(y)
 
hi brock, it took me years to find out what dry brushing was and I was too shy to ask and who would I ask, but thanks to planet figure , we are all able to help one another. happy modelling/badger
 
Thanks for the feedback Valiant,as I have old stock formual and Ido keep in a well condition area and do keep tins clean and I do now understand because you have done explained it very simple and easy and my ears are open and the pie hole is shut so that I may listen for the answers which took many years to do so shut up sit down and listen and i'll shell be educated it took 35 yrs to learn the how to work the drums due to not taken instructions but not with painting don't have that much more time on this earth so you all made me comfortable on asking for help so that I may get to where I'am heading and that is just maybe for what I have hoping to do is to have dioramas in most of all military buildings here in my hometown of Norfolk,Va . I'am still am a dreamer who still want to leave some well painted history behind after my passing you all seem to be swell group of guys. Brock Beckstedt P.S. Badger, my name Brock means in the wester dictionary" european badger" ark,ark.ark as to you all questions as they arise soon thanks to all
 
hi european badger, thank you for your reply and I am sure you will leave some fantastic models, before your passing, hope I do as well, take care and best wishes/Scottish badger
 
I´ve always painted with Humbrol and Model Master paints, doluted with white spirit. I never tried Humbrol thinner but results could be better than spirit. I´m far from being an expert but i must say Bill Horan´s painting steps have been too much important to achieve a satisfactory level of results.

This guy was painted using Bill´s way. Mainly Humbrol enamels.

 
Thanks for any ideas on understanding some steps by Bill Horan painting with enamels here is my not understanding, he talks or explains to mix to a thin transparency tintage hue but nowhere in the book does it say about useing thinners is this a giving has anyone follow or no of his procedures on the book of military modelling he wrote(step by step) face mixes (3)shadows and (2)hights no words about thinning or thinners can anyone help me out here?Brock

Brock make a step up the ladder and try oils for your faces ,can't be bettered :)
 
I use enamels for faces, Ihave tried acrylics but they were harder to blend in, my friend sandy Lawson of Dundee model club uses acrylics and does excellent work,what I am trying to say is use what your comfortable with and try experimenting with other mediums./badger
 
Bill Horans work is freaking incredible!!! His baseball figures are some of my all time favorites and I am NOT a baseball fan!
 
It's worth remembering that Bill Horan is painting 54mm figures. I tend to block in colours with acrylics, then use enamels/oils for the figure and oils for the face. I remain a fan of Humbrol, especially the 'metalcote' paints which can be buffed up without a grainy appearance.

Mike
 
Mike,

New to figures... When you say "block in colours in acrylics" what does that mean? Is this also referred to as undercoating?
 
If I understood correctly, Bill Horan first applies a basecoat and lets that dry. The following highlights and shades he does wet-on-wet, where every higher highlight and deeper shade stays within the area of the previous one. The edges he blends by carefully stipling over them.
I don't think he applies washes, for which the earIer coat has to completely dry.

This is how I interpret his explanation in his book.
I love his figures, but am no fan of Humbrol or enamels. Too much fuss with tins....

Cheers,
Adrian
 
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