Question on pinning White Metal Figures..........

[Jeff T]

Hi all,

I'm just about to embark on my first white metal figure.It is a 54mm Viking by Seil.

My question is, do you guys pin these figures or do you just glue the parts on with two part epoxy?

So far i have drilled out the torso and bottom half to put a brass pin in that section, because i thought it might need it there because of the weight of the top half, but do you recommend pinning any other parts, arms, shield, pouch etc?.........or should two part epoxy glue be strong enough to hold them over time.

Also, if you do recommend pinning, do you use just normal drill bits for steel?

Any info will help,
Thanks,
Jeff.

 

[Guy]

Hello Jeff.
I have found that using 5 minute epoxy is enough for the smaller parts to attach to the figure. I sometimes ( not all ) pin the figure thru the bottom of the heel for attachment to the base if not using the base supplied with the figure.

Long ago I invested in a dremel drill press that all my dremel tools adapt to. Gives you a better precision drill.

 

[PJ Deluhery]

I usually pin all major assemblies of the figure as well as pinning it to the base. Over the years, I've had a figure or two shake apart on the way to shows due to vibration. Now, I take no chances.

An easy way to locate your pins is to place an "X" on the torso using a pencil. Be sure all four ends of X extend outside the socket. Now place the arm in the socket and mark on the outside of the arm each place where it meets the outside ends of the X on the torso. Now remove the arm, and connect the marks on the arm to make an X. Drill your holes in the middle of each X. They should line up perfectly. Remember to make holes slightly larger than the pin to allow for glue. Good Luck.

 

[megroot]

Jeff,
Just like Guy i pin the arms, legs, head, and torso. I pin with cutted paperclip's. Dip them in cyanoacrylaat glue (2 sec. glue as they say), and put them in the drilled hole.
Between the two parts is again cyanoacrylaat, but the parts are extremely well cleaned. So with the pin and the glue it gives a very strong bond.
The smaller parts are just cleaned and glued with the same glue.

marc

 

[Paul Kernan]

Excellent suggestion on lining up the drill hole locations, Pat.

I usually shave off the manufactuer's pins and use my own (brass rod for large pieces and paper clips for smaller figures). One additional trick I find that helps is to drill one hole the exact size of the pin and the corresponding hole a size slightly larger than the pin. This allows a certain lattitide when marrying the two pieces together.

 

[Einion]

I usually pin all major assemblies of the figure as well as pinning it to the base. Over the years, I've had a figure or two shake apart on the way to shows due to vibration. Now, I take no chances.

What he said.

Nice tip on aligning the holes, must try that

For lighter parts I'll usually rely on glue only(superglue for things that fit tightly) but for anything that you really can't pin with some weight to it I'll try to use both superglue and epoxy if there's enough surface area.

For my pins I use small nails for larger stuff but usually paperclip wire; I scuff the surface and notch them to give the glue something to really hold on to.

Einion

 

[pkess]

I use the hard steel wire that they sell in the hobby shop for remote control aircraft. I pin pretty much everything I can except small pieces. I always use 5 minute epoxy for everything. Never have had any luck with the cyno glues on figures. I use JB Qwik which is the strongest epoxy available. it claims that it can be used to repair engine heads.

 

[Ulrich]

I use paperclip wire too and 5 minute epoxy. To mark the correct position for the hole I make two things. One times I make it like Paul, one hole in the correct size, the other a little bit greater. The other idea. I drill one hole and make a little acrylics colour point on it and put the parts together. So I can see at the other side the correct position.

Ulrich

 

[vergilius]

can't add more!
I love my dremel

 

[Jeff T]

.

Thanks for all the tips and info everybody.

White Metal is new terrain for me and i was keen to know how you guys went about it.

I wasn't sure to what extent i should pin a WM figure.

PJ:That is an excellent method i must try.

Paul:The method you use is also a great idea i wll definately use in the future.

Usually i work in Resin or Plastic so i can normally glue the part on, then drill right through the lot and pin it.All these tips are just what i needed for White Metal.

Thanks again everyone,
Jeff.

 

[Ashen-Shurgar]

Hi Jeff,

I picked up the viking one myself at the Illawarra model show last weekend and am in a very similar situation to myself in regards to my first White Metal figure. I would also like to thank everyone for their advice regarding pinning.

Mark

 

[Jeff T]

.

Hi Mark,

thats where i got mine too.I've been going to get this fig for a while and thought, what the heck, the guy's here selling them, no better time than now.

Trouble is, i may have to get some better drill bits, as i keep snapping the ones i have, getting a bit p****d off with it.


Cheers,
Jeff.

 

[Einion]

Trouble is, i may have to get some better drill bits, as i keep snapping the ones i have, getting a bit p****d off with it.

White metal is notorious for grabbing drill bits. Old trick: you might try lubricating them with a bit of white spirit if you have some around.

If you're using a power tool drill slowly, letting the bit do the work. Back out to clear swarf if necessary. If you have enough speed control keep the revs right down - too fast and the metal easily smears/melts.

Some bits are definitely better than others though!

Einion

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Hi Mark,

thats where i got mine too.I've been going to get this fig for a while and thought, what the heck, the guy's here selling them, no better time than now.

Trouble is, i may have to get some better drill bits, as i keep snapping the ones i have, getting a bit p****d off with it.


Cheers,
Jeff.

I keep special drill bits for drilling white metal with higher quality. Also oil could be used for lubrication and cooling.

Another tip so to have a bit of cloth to wrap around and hold the part in. This to get a better grip or to prevent damaging detail if you have to hold it steady against a table or similar. Also it works like an owenglove as some pieces can become very hot, very fast, when drilling out.

Cheers

 

[Jeff T]

.

Great tips Einion and Janne,

I will definately use those methods.

Thanks for the tips fellas,
Jeff.