Questions about clear coat for models

[Chris Kelm]

Hi,
I would like to tell everyone about my problem with clear coat. I use Model Master clear flat to seal my models as well as my figures. Using light coats I would then leave the figure alone over night and when I would check the figure the next morning,what I sprayed was a Model Master clear flat and what I got was a figure that looked like it was sprayed with a satin! I just bought this spray can the day before,brand new.
I also paint all my figures with JS paints which for what I was told leaves a dead flat finish. I even contacted Model Master/Testor to find out if I had recieved a bad can or if they changed the formula on the clear coat,they basically said no to the changing of the formula. Suggested that I go back and exchange the used can for a new one,so I did and still got the same results,satin finish instead of the flat finish.
So my many questions to all of you are these;
1.What happened?
2.Is there another brand of dull flat coat that is better?
3.what is the best brand for a DEAD FLAT clear coat finish in spray or brush on?
4.My main paint for figures is JS acrylics,you can clear coat them with Model Master/Testor clear coat laquer sprays,correct?
5.If correct what am I doing wrong if anything?

I'm very frustruated and sometimes affraid to start a model/figure knowing that I have to paint and finish it. So please if anyone could help me with this problem I would be so greatfull.
Thank you.
Chris

 

[Colin_Fraser]

I have dropped dullcoat in favour of Tamiya color TS-80 Flat Clear. I have gone through 4 cans and have had consistently good results. I found dullcoat inconsistent, ranging from flat to satin to brilliant gloss. Once you get gloss it seems no product will bring it back to flat.

Colin

 

[Dad4]

Hi Chris,

Just getting ready to finish up some of my figures and this what I use. In the states we have Future floor wax...an acrylic sealer that works great by brush or airbrush. It can be thinned with water. The final step in all of my models, vehicles or figures, is to matt varnish them to make sure that it is a dead flat appearance. I've been using Vallejo Matt varnish thinned with distilled water. Have had no problems over the years. I believe in Europe Future is sold as Johnson's Klear...same stuff. Hope this helps.

Brian

 

[samson]

I just tried a can I bought about 3 weeks ago and no problems I would get back to testors also have seen the Tamiya in bottles not cans but have heard good things

 

[valiant]

Ive had similar problems in the past, when using enamels. The solution was to seal the surface with a thinned coat of satin or gloss, then let it dry for a couple of days, then apply the matt varnish over that - never had the problem again. I even do it now with acrylics - probably not necessary, its just became a habit!

Steve

 

[John Bowery]

Chris,
I never use the cans of dull coat as I always have had a problem with not even being clear but having a slightly brown tinge. Maybe just the luck of the game for me. I switched to Testors Dull coat Lacquer in a square bottle (not round ) and I mix it 50/50 with lacquer thinner and spray with an airbrush. If you accidently get a white haze when dry, then just coat with a very thin spray of laquer thinner only. The white haze is the powder that makes it flat resting on the top. This has only happened to me once but it is nice to know the answer in case.
I have never had a problem using the above method but sometimes finding the square bottle is not as easy. Some hobby stores carry it and some don't. I don't know the difference between the square and round bottle and don't particularly care as the square works for me
The above works for me.
Cheers
John

 

[skeeterbuck]

Try just dusting the coats on. The flat finish comes from the surface of the paint/lacquer being microscopically rough. If the finish is allowed to settle and dry smoother it will result in a satin finish. Hope this helps!

Chuck

 

[pgarri27]

Like Chuck, I blast in several thin coats, allowing each to dry (hair dryer) for a few minutes, then another coat until finished. Using this method, I have never had any satin finishes. I also use the dryer to preheat the figure before spraying.

 

[tonydawe]

When I used oil paints only, I used to spray clear lacquer on my figures and it was always a lottery. Sometimes they dried dead flat and sometimes they dried satin.

I stopped using spray can lacquer when I switched to using acrylics. I find that the spray lacquer creates a very unnatural and uniform dullness to all the colours and textures, which is not realistic. For example, I like to maintain some sheen on leather and metal and skin, which can best be achieved by applying oils over acrylics.

My advice would be to abandon the use of spray cans all together. They may help seal the paint to the figure, but they don't create a very realistic finish.

 

[Macca G]

I use testors dullcote sprayed through an airbrush, thinned with White spirit at about 60% dullcote to 40% white spirit. If there's then any satin parts, I apply future with a brush. By using an airbrush you can control the application of the sealer, and not have it all come in a blast that you would get out of a can

 

[tiberius57]

Recently, I had a problem and relied on the Testors dull coat can to bring it back to a matt finish. It went worse. Then I used Vallejo Matt Varnish sprayed from over 10 inches through the airbrush. Very thin coats. I got a satin finish when I decided for a one more coat. It turned glossy again. It was a nightmare. After 24 hours drying time I tried Krylon Matte Finish from a can. It turned satin again. After another 24 hours drying time I applied again Testors dull coat and I gave up. It is a satin finish and it shouldn't be.
I agree with Colin: "Once you get gloss it seems no product will bring it back to flat". When an accident happens and you get a glossy surface, strip the paint and start again. It will save you a lot of time and getting , etc. ... you know what I mean. I was so pissed... All the work was flushed away...
I totally agree with Tony. All the textures are the result of planning and hard work. When you apply the dull coat everything will have the same finish. If you work in acrylics you don't need to seal the paint.
This is my personal experience with the dull coats. Hope it helps.
Cheers,
Zeno

 

[arj]

I have a strange way of using Testors Dullcote. I brush it on rather than spraying it.
Knowing that it's cellulose based and likely to strip the existing coat of paint (in my case generally oils) if brushed on neat, I've taken to mixing it 50/50 with W&N turps.
This seems to knock back the aggressive action of the Dullcote, and allows me to gently brush the mixture onto the shiny area (only once I'm sure that the paint has fully dried). This is immediately followed by heating with a hair-drier.
I've not had any problems so far; and each time I've managed to get a totally dull finish.
If you glance at my latest post "Man in a Gorget and Cap", the cap was almost as shiny as glass and both the jacket and cloak had slight levels of unwanted shine. The 50/50 mix killed all that. When brushing onto the red cloak, I did find traces of red on my brush. Perhaps the paint hadn't hardened fully (it was the last of the three areas that I'd painted).
Don't ask me how this works. I only found it by accidental experimentation when I was trying out various matting agents.
It works for me, but I obviously can't guarantee how it might work for others.

Cheer,
Andrew