Questions on how to work with metal figures

[Chris Kelm]

Hello,
I hope I am in the correct forum. So here is my problem,I purchased 4 phoenix follies figures and yes I know that they are vintage figures but they still look great. No real seem lines and everything seem to fit good.
Now my questions for you guys is this;
I tried to glue the parts together using CA glue but for some reason body parts always fall off.
1.What is the best way to glue the body parts together?
2.What is the best primmer to use on metal figures?
3.When painting metal figures does it matter if you are using oils or acrylics?
I hope I have not missed any possible questions that I should have asked,If I did could you also answer those questions for me?
Thank you.
Chris

 

[Joe55]

Hi Chris,

To add strength I would pin the pieces and double check for fit. Once satisfied that everything goes together well then wash thoroughly with warm water and dish washing liquid. Rinse and let dry. Glue the pieces together with either epoxy or CA.

I prime with good ole cheap auto body primer. In case you have any remaining small parts that in your judgement are better off adding after some painting is done, make sure that mating portion is free of paint/primer before gluing.

Since these girls display a lot of flesh I would suggest you airbrush some Humbrol Flesh over the primer as a base coat. You can then paint with either oils or acrylics.

Hope this helps.

Joe

 

[Chris Kelm]

Joe,
you say to pin the figure,what do you mean by pinning?
chris

 

[yellowcat]

Joe,
you say to pin the figure,what do you mean by pinning?
chris

Here are some links on how to pin figures.
http://axesandarrows.blogspot.ca/2013/06/how-to-pin-miniatures.html

 

[Joe55]

There you go, Yellowcat is on it!

Check out the videos.

Joe

 

[Jim]

You might also drill small holes in each mating part - shoulders, arms, legs - so that either the CA or epoxy will be able 'grab' to give the joint more strength. Like resin figures, a swipe with filler (I use Apoxie Sculpt, but there are other putties out there) to fill the gaps and seams. I usually finish the clean up with very, very fine steel (wire) wool or the finest grit of sandpaper - such as used for fine auto finishes. The Phoenix Follies girls are fun to paint, but with all the skin, those parts have to be glass-smooth.

As Joe said above, wash off the finger oils and other contaminants. I use 'Dawn' and a old, soft toothbrush to get in the crevices and folds, then a thorough rinsing and air-drying overnight. Just like resin figures, always prime the metal figures, and use a light, even coat so you don't hide detail or create an 'orange peel' effect that's a pain to remove.

Oils or acrylics, that's your call. I'm an acrylic guy, but sometimes I use oils for specific effects.

Have fun!

 

[Chris Kelm]

Great thanks for all your help. wish me luck,I think I'm going to need it. lol.
chris

 

[Jim]

Chris
There's all kinds of YouTube videos on painting figures - mostly the War Hammer miniatures, but occasionally there'll be videos painting 54, 75 and larger figures and busts. A lot of them deal with acrylics, but you might find some using oils, if that's your aim.
Be patient, don't be afraid to strip off paint and start again or call it done and go on to another. You'll always learn from the previous project.
Most of all - enjoy yourself.
After all, this is a hobby.

 

[evl hmr]

I've recently started my first metal mini a 75mm figure from Terrible Kids Stuff. After much reading and research, I took some fine steel wool and polished him up like jewellery. This allows for a smoother paint finish no matter what paints you use.

 

[Mirofsoft]

1.What is the best way to glue the body parts together?
I don't know, my way : using Pattex 100% repair gel
2.What is the best primmer to use on metal figures?
My way : Tamya primer for metal
3.When painting metal figures does it matter if you are using oils or acrylics?
No they are even painter using Plakka ( water pains for small children at school )
Like those who worked for Labayen

Or people working 100% whith Humbrol, classified Grand Masters in competitions worldwide

My way : first primer, then I paint with Humdorl a shade a bit lighter than the expected final result, repainting again with the end mix expected, whipping cery ligthly with a sponge, then applying shadows and higlights

 

[moore]

Good question and great replies.
I would like to know who makes that pinvise in the first video. I like the more cushioned handle. I have one like in the second video but sometimes find it hard to hold and use. Any ideas or suggestions on what type others are using and where to purchase

Thank you
Dee

 

[Mirofsoft]

Good question and great replies.
I would like to know who makes that pinvise in the first video. I like the more cushioned handle. I have one like in the second video but sometimes find it hard to hold and use. Any ideas or suggestions on what type others are using and where to purchase

Thank you
Dee

90% of the "amateurs" I encountered during 45 years now, used/use nothing else than glue .

 

[theBaron]

Good choice on the Phoenix Follies, Chris! I'm a fan of the old Phoenix catalog , too. Their figures all still hold up well today, in my opinion. I like the 54mm Georgian series, to fit in with my Seven Years War collection. I look forward to seeing a build blog here in the Planet, when you get started.

Prost!
Brad

 

[theBaron]

90% of the "amateurs" I encountered during 45 years now, used/use nothing else than glue .

Well, I'm in the other ten percent, then. I pin mine, because I want to be more certain of a strong join. I use 2-part epoxy, too, rather than CA glue, for major joins like torso to legs, or arms to torso. I'll use CA glue to attach bits of equipment.

Prost!
Brad

 

[elgreco]

You may wish to have a read on our tutorial here: https://www.elgrecominiatures.co.uk/pages/preparing-a-white-metal-figure-for-painting
There are also other tutorials here: https://www.elgrecominiatures.co.uk/pages/tutorials

 

[theBaron]

As far as primer goes, I have used automotive primers, such as Walmart's house brand, and Rustoleum, but I've switched to using Tamiya's fine surface primer. I use it with my scale models, too, and I find that it covers well and provides a fine surface with good tooth.

The automotive primers were OK, but I ran into quality issues with the rattle cans, both from Walmart and Rustoleum. That is that the cans tended to clog only about halfway through use. Plus, they were a little too coarsely-grained for my tastes.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Chris Kelm]

Thank you everyone for your help!
Chris

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

As far as primer goes, I have used automotive primers, such as Walmart's house brand, and Rustoleum, but I've switched to using Tamiya's fine surface primer. I use it with my scale models, too, and I find that it covers well and provides a fine surface with good tooth.

The automotive primers were OK, but I ran into quality issues with the rattle cans, both from Walmart and Rustoleum. That is that the cans tended to clog only about halfway through use. Plus, they were a little too coarsely-grained for my tastes.

Prost!
Brad

we are fortunately lucky enough not to have Walmart stores in the UK Brad I am experimenting with Army painter
Skeleton bone , very fine and smooth .

 

[Helm]

we are fortunately lucky enough not to have Walmart stores in the UK Brad I am experimenting with Army painter
Skeleton bone , very fine and smooth .

You do know ASDA are Walmart Ron?

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

No Thats me finished with them