Roman Cavalry Officer

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Rich and Pedro, your comments are much appreciated. You get two face options one benign and a serious one.
Both are beautifully sculpted.
Cheers
Derek
 
Great job! Specially like the idea for the sweat drops. Do you think it could work on smaller scales (54/75mm)?
thanks!
Fernando, I honestly think that 90mm is as low as you could go and see the sweat without magnification.
Gently rubbing smaller faces with your fingertips can give a pretty convincing sweat sheen as the natural oils from your skin coats the painted surface.
Cheers
Derek
 
Beautiful job Derek.....excellent paintwork.
Love the sweat beads too, very realistic.
 
Cracking work Del, the sweat is genius an amazingly difficult effect to get right, so kudos for that
Steve
 
Hi. Lovely work.

May I ask how you executed the sweat effect?

I did a search for threads discussing that topic, one of which you started, and in that thread there were the suggestions of CA glue, liquin/gel medium, two-part epoxy resin, painting (as in a catch-light effect) and also petroleum jelly.

In the thread you seem to indicate CA did not work... just curious what you used here and how you executed the application?

My first thought was epoxy resin but, as was also mentioned in that thread, there may be the issue of yellowing over time?

Thanks...
 
Hi. Lovely work.

May I ask how you executed the sweat effect?

Thanks...


Thanks Robert.
The beads of sweat were done with Microscale Krystal Klear. Aero modellers use this to create small windows .
s-l140.jpg

Simply use a sharp cocktail stick dipped in the Klear and place a drop where you want. Don't be tempted to try and do more than one bead per dip as you will lose control of size.
If you end up with a bead that's too big or in the wrong place, you can if you're very very careful lift it off by catching it with the point of a scalpel ******** you do run the risk of lifting paint.
So plan in advance and be patient. (y)
Cheers
Derek
 
Looks mighty fine Del. You pulled off some nice tones on the different textures, and of course as everyone else has commented, the perspiration too. By the way, is the nameplate another one of your creations?

Joe
 
Looks mighty fine Del. You pulled off some nice tones on the different textures, and of course as everyone else has commented, the perspiration too. By the way, is the nameplate another one of your creations?

Joe

Thanks Joe. Yep it's a totally different style.
Pretty straightforward really. Basic requirement is a printer that can produce mirror images.
Using MS Word create a text box to size, key in your words, highlight text and colour white.
Go to format and use the fill instruction to fill text box black. Your text will now show white on black.
What you now need is printable transparency film. Insert in printer as normal, select mirror image, the instruction for photo paper and print.
You'll get a gloss finish with the ink on the back. Let it dry for a few minutes then you can use gold printers ink to paint the clear letters or as I do simply stick to white plasticard.
I use a broad clear double sided tape to stick the label to the card.
Result is a plate that can be wiped clean and is pretty much scratch resistant. Adding lines and images is the same process.
Can be heavy on ink particularly if you forget to select and deselect mirror image.
 
Love the face and the leather braces!!

I'll bet this one gave you a lot to think about....VERY NICE

Kevin
 
Love the face and the leather braces!!

I'll bet this one gave you a lot to think about....VERY NICE

Kevin

A beauty of a sculpt Kevin making this a pleasure from start to finish. Most of the photos have overexposed the highlighting on the feathered crest.
They are mainly black with purple, magenta and pink washes and blue highlights, the intention being to get an oily look to the feather.
Thumbnail 3 is nearest.
 
It's a cracker Derek.As for the"pretty straightforward really" nameplates, i find a bit misleading,as i've no chance of making nameplates like yours.
So cut the BS.:ROFLMAO:
 
Really nice work Del. the flesh tones are excellent as well as the leathers. I like the lived in look you've given him. The sweat came out excellent too.
Grant
 
Thanks Robert.
The beads of sweat were done with Microscale Krystal Klear. Aero modellers use this to create small windows .
View attachment 240371
Simply use a sharp cocktail stick dipped in the Klear and place a drop where you want. Don't be tempted to try and do more than one bead per dip as you will lose control of size.
If you end up with a bead that's too big or in the wrong place, you can if you're very very careful lift it off by catching it with the point of a scalpel ******** you do run the risk of lifting paint.
So plan in advance and be patient. (y)
Cheers
Derek


Thanks very much and, again, nicely done.
 

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