Sculpting 1/35 figures...

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Taesung,

Thanks for the SBS posting, you continually raise the bar (y)

Are you still using Aves for your medium ?

I'm watching this post closely!

P.S. Gorgeous axe!!
 
Yes, I use Aves Apoxie putty.
I tried a few other types of putty in the past.
For me, Aves gets the job done. All around, good quality.
Consistency, ample work time, rock solid when dried...
All these qualities are a must for me.

Derek
Yes, I do work from the bottom up... generally.
 
Yes, I use Aves Apoxie putty.
I tried a few other types of putty in the past.
For me, Aves gets the job done. All around, good quality.
Consistency, ample work time, rock solid when dried...
All these qualities are a must for me.

Rock on... :)
After a milliput shortage, I've been using it lately as well, the Aves super white is perfectly opaque (i've been tinting it to light gray with a bit of Sharpie marker ;) )
 
Part 4

Hello guys,
Here's updated pics of the figures.
Now, small fine details are being added. All these
details should be made with casting in mind. Knowing
exactly how each parts will be cast will save you much
grieves later.

009.jpg

010.jpg


Due to the unique design of the leather jacket, the right
arm of the Italian AFV crew requires a slightly different way
to attach to the body.

011.jpg

012.jpg


When making folds and wrinkles, it's good to give
some contrast. If you have a lot of small wrinkles here,
make large broad wrinkles there. If you have busy area
here, then have a plain area there. This type of contrast
will help details to pop out better.

You can see areas that I added, sanded and carved putty
on the surface. You don't have to get it right at one go.
Let it dry and work with it. :)
 
wow very nice!


the heads you use are some from different figures you modified right?
but the onesyou originally made,how did you do them? did you also carve the basic shape and sculpt then?



looking forward to seeing those two guys released:)



Andreas
 
Good question, Andreas, I was wondering the same thing about the heads, whether they were-please forgive me-aftermarket, or sculpted from scratch. After seeing how you carved the hands, if you've also created the heads, I'm eager to see your process.

Prost!
Brad
 
Rest assured! The heads are conversions of previous Alpine ones of course.
Some of you might be able to recognize the original heads that I am using here. ;)

If you look carefully, the forehead, nose, ears (one of the heads), cheeks, mouth/jaw
and neck angle are all re-sculpted to give different appearance than the original.
Once these heads have their hat or helmet on, they will be quite different than
the originals. A lot of modelers don't seem to realize this, but it takes just as long
time and effort to convert a head (the way I do) because you still have to re-make
many facial details.

When I do make a whole new head, I start this by carving a dried doe of
putty. Roughly carve and shave out the head, making sure it's as symmetric as
possible. Then repeat the adding and subtracting putty until it's done.

The belt buckle made with PE part is also my own design. I had a bunch
of PE parts custom-made both in 1/35 and 1/16 a few years ago. I had to
create the digital files myself on Adobe Illustrator. It was well worth the trouble. ;)
If you plan to make your own PE parts, remember this. Most of the PE makers
will ask you for digital files. If you are not comfortable with certain design
applications, it can be a daunting task.
 
Great SBS, Taesung :)

The belt buckle made with PE part is also my own design. I had a bunch of PE parts custom-made both in 1/35 and 1/16 a few years ago. I had to create the digital files myself on Adobe Illustrator. It was well worth the trouble. ;)
If you plan to make your own PE parts, remember this. Most of the PE makers will ask you for digital files. If you are not comfortable with certain design applications, it can be a daunting task.

I've been wondering for years now how you managed to do those detailed belt buckles. Thanks for solving the mystery for me ;) (y)
 
Great seeing the progress on these Taesung, thanks! I like how even at a late stage in the sculpting you show you can completely revise one of the joints like the right shoulder.

The staged building on these is one of the key things I think people should take away, as well as how small or thin additions of putty can be (especially in this scale!) I have to keep reminding myself these guys are six times smaller in real life than in the pictures :eek:

The belt buckle made with PE part is also my own design. I had a bunch of PE parts custom-made both in 1/35 and 1/16 a few years ago. I had to create the digital files myself on Adobe Illustrator. It was well worth the trouble. ;)
Out of curiosity, did you need to simplify the artwork for 1/35 scale for the etching to work right or is a simple scaling of the 1/16 elements all that's needed?

Einion
 
Looking at your efforts and brilliant carving hands.....
That is why your figures are the only "brand" that I do not missed....

Allan
 
Sorry, guy. I had to work on other figures over the weekend.
I'll update you with more pics soon. :)
 
Any updates??
Also any chance of seeing the 120mm german figure your working on as well?

Thanks
 
Taesung,
I really need a 1/16 fix..................................
bring on that Fallschrimjager
Brent

Okay, Brent!

The "Fallschirmjäger" figure will take a while.
I'll have a new 1/16 figure from Mike Good that's
being painted by Sangeon Lee (the guy who paints
Young's busts) at the moment. This figure will be
available in early June.
 
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