Hi Everyone
Modeller David L. Stokes from the Small Subjects Historex FB group has kindly agreed that I can share the WIP , he is updating approximately weekly and I will do the same here
THANK YOU DAVID
Here are some helpful links if you are new to the world of Historex:
http://www.historex.com/ - The official site of NCO Historex.
They list all of the kits that have ever been released. You can also buy individual "spare parts" sprues separately.
https://historexagents.com/ - Retailer in England which carries Historex.
https://www.amazon.com/Napoleonic-Plastic-Figure-Modelling-Masterclass/dp/1859150195 - Bill Ottinger's book on building Historex figures. This book is well worth getting.
Here's a good article on the history of Historex: https://www.boxdioramas.com/
Background from David
It is time to begin a new project. Two people who greatly influenced me in this hobby, the late Bill Ottinger and the late Bob Knee, both drummed into my head to start and finish one project at a time.
I have largely followed this advice. This does not mean that I do not think about future projects will working on the current one. While the previous Light Horse piece was in process, I took some time to have my Rigo Plates printed and to organize them into notebooks. During this time, I came across Plate 88, Trumpeter of the St Germain Cavalry School. This figure really caught my imagination and has become my next project.
As part of this, I decided I would document my process of building a Historex figure in a step by step (SBS) format. Also, this gives me a way to pay homage to my friend, Bill Ottinger, for all the advice and support I received over the years. Bill loved Historex, evidenced by his excellent book on the subject, and enjoyed sharing tips and instruction. So, let us be about it.
What intrigued me by the Rigo plate was the realization that this figure could easily be recreated using Historex parts. The saddle and pistol holsters are the same style as the Empress Dragoons. The Trumpeter’s helmet is a la Minerva, like the Empress Dragoons, except it has a wool chenille instead of a horsehair crest. Like a Line Dragoon Officer. The coat is a long tailed, nine buttoned surtout, common second dress for Dragoons. It is unusual because it has lace/braid on every button hold, The Surtout’s worn by line trumpeters have the lace/braid on alternating buttons. Historex does make a body with the nine rows of lace/braid. I could not find one in the parts bins on my desk and did not go looking in my reserve boxes (I was being a bit lazy). However, as I intend to animate the figure and will be cutting it apart this was not a concern. The Trumpeter’s sword is in the dragoon style.
Although an Empress Dragoon kit would provide most of the parts, I just starting rummaging through my parts drawers and collected what I needed. As most Historex builders know, after a few years of building Historex kits, you begin to develop a good collection of spare parts. Add to that partially build kits and/or old collections that can be picked up at Flea Market tables at many miniature figure shows and you have a solid resource to build any figure you want. I have attached a photo of most of the parts I have assembled for this project. You may notice that I did include coattails. I prefer to make my coattails out of rolled out epoxy putty, as this gives me better control on the draping of the coattails. As this project progresses, I will share pictures of each stage of the build.
In addition to the already mentioned picture of the various parts, I have attached a photo of the Rigo Plate and two shots of my workspace ready to begin.
First up is the cleaning up mold lines and such.
While I always welcome and encourage comments, critiques and questions, during this project they will be especially desired.
Here’s the first instalment
ENJOY ....I believe a cat is a must ...lol
As we begin the process of building a figure from Historex parts, let me emphasize that this is my process developed over 38 years of building Historex kits, talking with other modelers, and reading articles of how others build Historex kits. I am always trying new methods or processes. If someone has a different, better (I define better as easier with comparable or improved results.) method or process I am interested in and willing to adapt/adopt it.
In the first installment I included pictures of my workspace/desk. I have added another to show an essential element of any modelers’ table, the hobby cat. This is Oreo, my 15-year-old female Tuxedo, I have two 8-year males as well. They may hang out in my office, but the table is Oreo’s domain. She came to us from my son and immediately determined I was her human. As you can see her “spot” is an open drawer, in this case my paint drawer. She is on my box of Vallejo paints, there is a cardboard cover to keep the paints from getting put out of order.
The first stage to building a Historex figure, after you collected your parts/opened a kit, secured your references is the most tedious and important, clean up/figure prep. I will own that I am not always as diligent in this phase as I should/could be. But removing mold seams, undercutting pockets, lapels or anywhere to different pieces of clothing meet and checking/adjusting the fit of parts together is important. It helps ensure the best possible results in the finished product. In addition to mold seams, I usually scrape off molded on lace detail. As with this piece, many times the molded-on detail does not match what is needed with the figure in question.
Cleanup of mold lines is accomplished using an X-acto knife with a # 11 blade, files, sanding sticks and sanding film. For sanding sticks, in addition to round disposable sanding sticks/needles I use emery boards. They are inexpensive and easily sourced in most grocery/drug stores. The clean up process also includes cutting off the molded-on horse harness. Yes, I usually feel a little trepidation in removing this nicely molded detail. Accouple of articles I read in British Hobby publications by Dr. Mike Thomas, led me to removing the mold harness and replacing it. Dr Thomas used electrician’s tap with the adhesive removed. I found I prefer copier paper painted with acrylic hobby paint. I would use Historex buckles to replace those lost due to my earlier surgery. Prior to adding the harness, I would also repair the areas damaged in removing the harness with putty. The Historex catalogues had detailed line drawings of the French and Hungarian styles of harness. I photocopied each page and laminated them as a handy reference.
Now begins the fun part, horse butchery. For this project I decided to use the Historex # 6 right horse half. However, no single left half gave me the exact pose I wanted. Therefore, I cut #9 and # 11 left halves apart. You will see in attached photos where I used a right quarter to mark where to make the cuts on each left half. As with carpentry, measure twice (three times is better) cut once. Once cut apart, I clean up the edges and glue the sections I need together. In this case, the front quarter from the #9 half and the rear from #11. I used liquid plastic cement for this and added plastic strips inside for strength. For plastic on plastic, I like the liquid plastic cement, I use Testors, because I feel I get a stronger bond. After the plastic cement has cured, I flood the inside joint with 2-part epoxy cement to reinforce the joint.
From the photos, you will note that I routed out a grove in a leg on each half. This is to run a brass rod as support and to provide an attachment point to the base. I drill up through the hoof into the ankle as I do not like rebuilding the hoof. Also, if the pose requires it, I can reposition the ankle at this point. I learned this from a fellow modeler when I lived in Atlanta, Dan Osier. Although, somewhat overkill on standing/walking horses, it is a practice I keep up out of habit, you will notice that on the front leg I ran the rod up through the body and out the neck. I usually cut the horse’s head off the neck and rebuild the neck with putty. I find repositioning and rebuilding the neck easier than trying to reposition the molded neck. The brass wire is secured into the grove with 2-part epoxy cement and then the leg detail is rescuplted with 2-part epoxy putty, Magic Sculpt, in this case.
After, the putty has cured, the rework checked and the whole sanded/polished, it is time to join the halves. As this is to be a heavier horse, I typically “beef” up the horse. I am not sure of the exact thickness of the plastic sheet I used as my sheet plastic stock has become jumbled together over the years. For dragoon and larger horses, I completely cover one half and will add a piece to the lower part of the other half to “beef” up the chest. For cuirassier horses I have used the plastic base/plinth supplied in the kit to provide the exact width. Again, because it is a plastic-to-plastic joint, I used liquid cement to join and clamped the halves together. I used cloths pins when clamping the sheet plastic to the two halves, but they are not as effective clamping the halves together and I am not satisfied with the screw clamps.
After carefully measuring I added the horse head to the end of the bass pin and roughed in the neck with Magic Sculpt. The next step is to putty the joints and then sand them smooth. From the last pictures you can see were I have filled the joints with 2-part putty, here I used Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It is a little softer and I like using it to fill joints. In the next installment I will include a discussion of the various putties I use and why.
This concludes this week’s installment on this project. I hope I did not bore you too greatly and that I provided useful information. As always, your comments, critiques and questions are welcomed and encouraged.
Click on for larger images
Nap
Modeller David L. Stokes from the Small Subjects Historex FB group has kindly agreed that I can share the WIP , he is updating approximately weekly and I will do the same here
THANK YOU DAVID
Here are some helpful links if you are new to the world of Historex:
http://www.historex.com/ - The official site of NCO Historex.
They list all of the kits that have ever been released. You can also buy individual "spare parts" sprues separately.
https://historexagents.com/ - Retailer in England which carries Historex.
https://www.amazon.com/Napoleonic-Plastic-Figure-Modelling-Masterclass/dp/1859150195 - Bill Ottinger's book on building Historex figures. This book is well worth getting.
Here's a good article on the history of Historex: https://www.boxdioramas.com/
Background from David
It is time to begin a new project. Two people who greatly influenced me in this hobby, the late Bill Ottinger and the late Bob Knee, both drummed into my head to start and finish one project at a time.
I have largely followed this advice. This does not mean that I do not think about future projects will working on the current one. While the previous Light Horse piece was in process, I took some time to have my Rigo Plates printed and to organize them into notebooks. During this time, I came across Plate 88, Trumpeter of the St Germain Cavalry School. This figure really caught my imagination and has become my next project.
As part of this, I decided I would document my process of building a Historex figure in a step by step (SBS) format. Also, this gives me a way to pay homage to my friend, Bill Ottinger, for all the advice and support I received over the years. Bill loved Historex, evidenced by his excellent book on the subject, and enjoyed sharing tips and instruction. So, let us be about it.
What intrigued me by the Rigo plate was the realization that this figure could easily be recreated using Historex parts. The saddle and pistol holsters are the same style as the Empress Dragoons. The Trumpeter’s helmet is a la Minerva, like the Empress Dragoons, except it has a wool chenille instead of a horsehair crest. Like a Line Dragoon Officer. The coat is a long tailed, nine buttoned surtout, common second dress for Dragoons. It is unusual because it has lace/braid on every button hold, The Surtout’s worn by line trumpeters have the lace/braid on alternating buttons. Historex does make a body with the nine rows of lace/braid. I could not find one in the parts bins on my desk and did not go looking in my reserve boxes (I was being a bit lazy). However, as I intend to animate the figure and will be cutting it apart this was not a concern. The Trumpeter’s sword is in the dragoon style.
Although an Empress Dragoon kit would provide most of the parts, I just starting rummaging through my parts drawers and collected what I needed. As most Historex builders know, after a few years of building Historex kits, you begin to develop a good collection of spare parts. Add to that partially build kits and/or old collections that can be picked up at Flea Market tables at many miniature figure shows and you have a solid resource to build any figure you want. I have attached a photo of most of the parts I have assembled for this project. You may notice that I did include coattails. I prefer to make my coattails out of rolled out epoxy putty, as this gives me better control on the draping of the coattails. As this project progresses, I will share pictures of each stage of the build.
In addition to the already mentioned picture of the various parts, I have attached a photo of the Rigo Plate and two shots of my workspace ready to begin.
First up is the cleaning up mold lines and such.
While I always welcome and encourage comments, critiques and questions, during this project they will be especially desired.
Here’s the first instalment
ENJOY ....I believe a cat is a must ...lol
As we begin the process of building a figure from Historex parts, let me emphasize that this is my process developed over 38 years of building Historex kits, talking with other modelers, and reading articles of how others build Historex kits. I am always trying new methods or processes. If someone has a different, better (I define better as easier with comparable or improved results.) method or process I am interested in and willing to adapt/adopt it.
In the first installment I included pictures of my workspace/desk. I have added another to show an essential element of any modelers’ table, the hobby cat. This is Oreo, my 15-year-old female Tuxedo, I have two 8-year males as well. They may hang out in my office, but the table is Oreo’s domain. She came to us from my son and immediately determined I was her human. As you can see her “spot” is an open drawer, in this case my paint drawer. She is on my box of Vallejo paints, there is a cardboard cover to keep the paints from getting put out of order.
The first stage to building a Historex figure, after you collected your parts/opened a kit, secured your references is the most tedious and important, clean up/figure prep. I will own that I am not always as diligent in this phase as I should/could be. But removing mold seams, undercutting pockets, lapels or anywhere to different pieces of clothing meet and checking/adjusting the fit of parts together is important. It helps ensure the best possible results in the finished product. In addition to mold seams, I usually scrape off molded on lace detail. As with this piece, many times the molded-on detail does not match what is needed with the figure in question.
Cleanup of mold lines is accomplished using an X-acto knife with a # 11 blade, files, sanding sticks and sanding film. For sanding sticks, in addition to round disposable sanding sticks/needles I use emery boards. They are inexpensive and easily sourced in most grocery/drug stores. The clean up process also includes cutting off the molded-on horse harness. Yes, I usually feel a little trepidation in removing this nicely molded detail. Accouple of articles I read in British Hobby publications by Dr. Mike Thomas, led me to removing the mold harness and replacing it. Dr Thomas used electrician’s tap with the adhesive removed. I found I prefer copier paper painted with acrylic hobby paint. I would use Historex buckles to replace those lost due to my earlier surgery. Prior to adding the harness, I would also repair the areas damaged in removing the harness with putty. The Historex catalogues had detailed line drawings of the French and Hungarian styles of harness. I photocopied each page and laminated them as a handy reference.
Now begins the fun part, horse butchery. For this project I decided to use the Historex # 6 right horse half. However, no single left half gave me the exact pose I wanted. Therefore, I cut #9 and # 11 left halves apart. You will see in attached photos where I used a right quarter to mark where to make the cuts on each left half. As with carpentry, measure twice (three times is better) cut once. Once cut apart, I clean up the edges and glue the sections I need together. In this case, the front quarter from the #9 half and the rear from #11. I used liquid plastic cement for this and added plastic strips inside for strength. For plastic on plastic, I like the liquid plastic cement, I use Testors, because I feel I get a stronger bond. After the plastic cement has cured, I flood the inside joint with 2-part epoxy cement to reinforce the joint.
From the photos, you will note that I routed out a grove in a leg on each half. This is to run a brass rod as support and to provide an attachment point to the base. I drill up through the hoof into the ankle as I do not like rebuilding the hoof. Also, if the pose requires it, I can reposition the ankle at this point. I learned this from a fellow modeler when I lived in Atlanta, Dan Osier. Although, somewhat overkill on standing/walking horses, it is a practice I keep up out of habit, you will notice that on the front leg I ran the rod up through the body and out the neck. I usually cut the horse’s head off the neck and rebuild the neck with putty. I find repositioning and rebuilding the neck easier than trying to reposition the molded neck. The brass wire is secured into the grove with 2-part epoxy cement and then the leg detail is rescuplted with 2-part epoxy putty, Magic Sculpt, in this case.
After, the putty has cured, the rework checked and the whole sanded/polished, it is time to join the halves. As this is to be a heavier horse, I typically “beef” up the horse. I am not sure of the exact thickness of the plastic sheet I used as my sheet plastic stock has become jumbled together over the years. For dragoon and larger horses, I completely cover one half and will add a piece to the lower part of the other half to “beef” up the chest. For cuirassier horses I have used the plastic base/plinth supplied in the kit to provide the exact width. Again, because it is a plastic-to-plastic joint, I used liquid cement to join and clamped the halves together. I used cloths pins when clamping the sheet plastic to the two halves, but they are not as effective clamping the halves together and I am not satisfied with the screw clamps.
After carefully measuring I added the horse head to the end of the bass pin and roughed in the neck with Magic Sculpt. The next step is to putty the joints and then sand them smooth. From the last pictures you can see were I have filled the joints with 2-part putty, here I used Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It is a little softer and I like using it to fill joints. In the next installment I will include a discussion of the various putties I use and why.
This concludes this week’s installment on this project. I hope I did not bore you too greatly and that I provided useful information. As always, your comments, critiques and questions are welcomed and encouraged.
Click on for larger images
Nap
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