WIP Critique starting a new project

planetFigure

Help Support planetFigure:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

megroot

A Fixture
Joined
Jan 7, 2004
Messages
28,392
Location
Netherlands, Arnemuiden
Oke Guys,
This is tough for me.
I want this figure zoom_4-p.jpg

into these setting:
engelse soldaat voor vignette..jpg

So there is alot to build. My question is with what material could I build the ruine (DR FORCE Help),
How do I made a realistic background of ruines??? He will be sitting with his back to the ruine, and his legs out of the ruine resting on ruble. (I don't want to convert the figure)

I need all the help I can get to made it to the finish. Scale is limited to 1:32.

marc
 
Oke Guys,
This is tough for me.
I want this figure View attachment 87138

into these setting:
View attachment 87139

So there is alot to build. My question is with what material could I build the ruine (DR FORCE Help),
How do I made a realistic background of ruines??? He will be sitting with his back to the ruine, and his legs out of the ruine resting on ruble. (I don't want to convert the figure)

I need all the help I can get to made it to the finish. Scale is limited to 1:32.

marc

Hi Marc

Looks like a great project mate.

As you know from my own build I am a great advocate of using cork. Personally I would actually construct the wall making each individual bricks to the right scale (simply take a brick size and divide by 32)

Stick these on to a relevant board making sure you have the scale of the thickness correct (again just google wall thickness and divide by 32)

Fill all the mortar lines with polyfilla.

Once I had done both sides I would then coat the whole thing with very thin plaster (easily pruchased at any hardware store, polyfilla is a good one) Allow to go dry.

Now all you need do is pick off the plaster (carefully to reveal the brick or stonework) where you see the thickness of the wall that has been damaged, just use some more polyfilla to roughen the edges and to make it look like its all joined together.

To make relaistic walls I think it's a good idea to try and construct like they would have been in real life.

There are all manner of different sizes of cork to suit any application, you just need to repeat the above for your background ruin.

Hope that helps but if you need any more support just let me know(y)
 
Many ways to skin a cat. I remember my 1st ruined building diorama as an 11 year old. I found out by accident that turpentine melted polystyrene when I knocked my brush cleaner over. This I thought would make convincing ruins if I plastered said styrene with dads polyfilla. So I did that and stuck in some soldering wire mesh framework I painted to look like rust. Thus was done my 1st convincing (to me at the time) diorama. It still works - and its cheap. PS - mum was very cranky about the state of the carpet.
 
Marc - what figure is that? I am just getting interestin WWI and I don't recall seeing it before.

Thanks

Colin
 
thanks Johan,
I've been productive: its only my fifht figure this year. Working always on two or three figures at the same time. For us oilpainters normally.

That will be alot of putty then.
Gonna ask you more within a few weeks about it.

marc
 
Thanks Adrian,
The last link: ???????

Oops, don't know how that second link got there... Too much copy/pasting from my side.
Well, it explains a way to make the fast fourier transform even faster, but that sure is of no help whatsoever to your project!
:ROFLMAO:

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Marc,

I have some nice ideas for the groundwork. You might want to save some plaster from work :)

That won't work. The last 25 years we use only glassfiber with polyesther on it. Very thin, and very strong.
I have some plaster of paris from the days i made masks for the radiation therapie. That can be used.
The plaster of paris we use since 1932 :D are cotton bandages with plaster on it. It works easy.
Where has been the time (the Cats)

Marc
 

Latest posts

Back
Top