WIP 1/16 "Tiger In Wait" 321 .SS.Pz.Abt.101 Normandy 1944

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Love the glass work Dave, very well designed and looking very good. I'm not a flat worker either, so I'll be watched. Lovin the process Bro!(y)


Cheers, Ski.:D

P.S. Now it's off to the bunker to prime the bikes.
 
Thanks Steve

Well finally cracked it .................oh yeah baby (as Steve would probably say)

I did alot of thinking to try and find the most cost effective, less labour intensive but most realistic way of reproducing a fantastic window.

Now you have seen my drawing and I was happy with that design but you know when you feel that it's not going to quite do it justice, well I was still thinking and then............................light bulb moment and this is how it's done:-

1) download a good picture from the web
2) shrink to an appropriate size
3) print on some nice thin plain paper
4)make sure it will fit in your window
5) turn the paper over and rub some cooking oil in to the back ( and make sure it is the back only) this makes it transparent!
6)Once done wipe away all the excess with some kitchen towel (carefully in one direction)
7) allow to be touch dry (can quicken over a gas stove )
8) Varnish the back sealing in the oil with some clear matt varnish and allow to dry
9) Varnish the printed side and allow to dry
10) obtain window and cut to size
11) stick on the window with watered down pva glu and yup a convincing stained glass window at 1/16 lol:whistle:(y)

I have obtained some very thin lead tape (golfers use it) and I am now deliberating if I should add this to the lead lines for ultimate realism.

Pics to show the method and the end result. I am going to put in another transum bar to seperate the small area at the top from the stained glass and fill with another pattern.It looks fantastic in the Church and I will obtain some much better day light shots over the next few days.

I' m quite pleased I spent the time experimenting and deliberating over what was the best way!!
 

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Youza Baby, the lunacy of this process is flippin absurd, simply awesome mate, awesome!!(y) I was gigglin at the simplicity of this process, so simple, but so stinkin, flippin impressive. I cut and pasted the write-up for future endeavors, and after thinking about the cooking oil, it gave it just enough transparency to pull all the colors thru the thin printer paper, brilliant.(y)(y)

Not only do you have a stellar talent Bro, that mind of yours comes up with incredible solutions to the given problem. You really should be doing this for a book, you could retire and do models for life, Lol! Ah, that would be a rough life, eh?:ROFLMAO::lol:

Cheers, Ski.:D
 
That quite ingeneous Dave! Oil and paper, of course!
Very clever. (y)

It's all looking more and more impressive and you haven't even started with the figures yet!

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Hi

Thanks to everyone for your comments.

The light bulb moment came from a bacon butty and the handling a newspaper with greasey fingers lol. It was then a case of experimenting to make sure the oil could be sealed in the paper and this worked perfectly with a bit of heat finished off with the varnish.

Steve I'm glad you have saved it in the techniques file and hope it produces the kind of result the high quality of your work deserves.

I'm kind of releived as I was at the head scratching stage which may have held the project up and I wanted to really attack this over the Christmas holidays. I now need to find a good pattern for the area above and then think of the technique to add real lead to the lead lines.

Thanks fella's

Dave
 
Excellent result Dave, really impressive!

As for the real lead, that might be a bridge too far. I think it would be very difficult to obtain the correct scale thickness, not to mention the sheer complexity and glue overspill issues. If you go down that route then best of luck, but how about using a quality pen and drawing over the lines to create definition? I use Pigma Micron 05 archival ink pens at work, they give an excellent precision line and are waterproof and fade proof. I could post one up to you to try out if you like?

Cheers,
Jon.
 

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Hi Jon

Thanks for your support.

I have tried to cut the lead to 1mm thickness which is obviously 16mm on real world measurment and it also has a sticky back so it sticks straight on. I will give it a go on another copy of the pattern to see if it is possible first.
I am also aware that the joints were soldered, which would pose another problem lol.

I'll post up my results over the next few weeks to see what you think and it will help me understand the complexity of it all by having a proper go at it.

If it's no good then i may call upon you for the pen , but would appreciate you honest critique on my trials first.

Thanks
Dave
 
Thanks guys

Carl, appreciate the link thanks mate, that is certainly a good option and I'll think about that if option 1 fails.

I'm still thinking about other idea's but the best way is to simply test until you are happy with the effect.

Anyway I have a nice long weekend so have plenty of time to have a go.

Dave
 
Hi All

Started the guttering and also began to add the detail for the external side of the window.

This is about done just needs some more filling and tidying up with a bit of magic sculpt and sanding down with wet and dry.

I will now begin the internal detail for the window and then we are not far off priming the brickwork.

I have added a daylight shot to show the transparency of the window.

Thanks
Dave
 

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Nice, gutter detail looks great and the window trim-out too. I'll ask now cause someone else may be wondering too, any battle damage for the stained glass window? In this scale it's going to be very visible which is why you are having to actually mess with the lead in the first place. This will be a delicate operation I recon. All looks really good Bro.

Cheers, Ski.:D
 
Nice, gutter detail looks great and the window trim-out too. I'll ask now cause someone else may be wondering too, any battle damage for the stained glass window? In this scale it's going to be very visible which is why you are having to actually mess with the lead in the first place. This will be a delicate operation I recon. All looks really good Bro.

Cheers, Ski.:D

Hi Steve

There will be no battle damage to the stained glass window as you see it now. I will be adding broken bits of glass to the other one, which will require a whole host of planning on its own lol.

I am yet to test the lead on the window and it may (as already ststed) be a step to far as the lines are so thin and small:sick: but ill give it a go.

I'm adding filla and sanding down parts of the window at the moment, just having a good tidy up, however I do not need it to be to prestine given it will have small bits of rubble and dust sat on it and all or most of the attention will be focused on the inside.

The external part needs to be a rougher effect to show worn and weathered stone etc, with the internal stone work being as smooth as possible.

I added thin strips of wood to the outside and then added filla before sanding down. I also flatenend one half of some thin dowel and added this to the inside. I am still tidying all this up but the pics below should give you an idea of what I am getting at.
 

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Hi Guys

thanks for your comments.

Tiss I think my predictions for around a year from start to finish are not far off lol. Christmas is a great excuse for lots of relaxing bench time so should see some good progress over the next 2 weeks.

Steve, the cork us way to big and flat to give the impression of a stone window. The architectural aspects breath life in to all of it so I want to get this bit spot on.

Alot of work, filling, sanding etc but thoroughly enjoyable.

Thanks
Dave
 
This is one of the best diorama set I ever see, I am looking forward to see the next steps.
BTW you are very patience...
 

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