Steve Ski
A Fixture
Here comes that specific style I recognize, spot on!
Completed Another Chindit bust…
- Thread starter Canoehead
- Start date
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Steve Brodie
PlanetFigure Supporter
And that’s why I love painting in oils, you can see instantly what’s working and what might not be, hats off to all the acrylic flesh painters, I just can’t get to grips with all the layering of transparent colours.
Canoehead
A Fixture
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- Oct 12, 2020
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Thanks again, all for the kind comments. Yeah, I’m an old time oils guy for the same reasons you’ve noted - easy mixing of almost any colour I need and ease of blending. In fact, I’m still using the same oil set I first bought almost 40 years ago so with the exception of a couple of replacement tubes, I haven’t spent a dime on paint since!
Thanks again - on to the eyes and beard/hair next.
Thanks again - on to the eyes and beard/hair next.
Steve Ski
A Fixture
That's funny, me too, HA! Gotta love them oils.
Canoehead
A Fixture
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Eyes are up next.
Started by mixing up a light grey acrylic and filling in the eyeballs, leaving a very thin line of the raw umber around the perimeter of the eye, representing the shadow cast by the eyelids:
Added the iris using black acrylic to make a circle in each eyeball. It’s actually about 80% of a circle since the top part is hidden by the upper eyelid. Hardest part is trying to get them both the same size and oriented correctly relative to one another so it doesn’t look walleyed or cross eyed:
Mixed up a dull bluish- grey and filled in the irises, leaving a thin ring of the black around the outside of the iris. I usually use blue for the iris since it gives a nice contrast with that black outer border but other colours work, too:
I add a bit of white to the bluish-grey from the last step and use it to go over the bottom half of each iris to give the eyeball a bit of dimension:
The final step is to add the pupil. I use a tiny dot of black oil paint so if I screw up, I can remove it without affecting the acrylics underneath. Since the eyeball is partly covered by the eyelid, the pupil is also not completely round but slightly covered by the eyelid shadow as well:
Setting it aside to let that pupil dry fully before I finish the rest of the details on the eyes , eyelids and eyebrows. Photos to follow - thanks for looking in.
Started by mixing up a light grey acrylic and filling in the eyeballs, leaving a very thin line of the raw umber around the perimeter of the eye, representing the shadow cast by the eyelids:
Added the iris using black acrylic to make a circle in each eyeball. It’s actually about 80% of a circle since the top part is hidden by the upper eyelid. Hardest part is trying to get them both the same size and oriented correctly relative to one another so it doesn’t look walleyed or cross eyed:
Mixed up a dull bluish- grey and filled in the irises, leaving a thin ring of the black around the outside of the iris. I usually use blue for the iris since it gives a nice contrast with that black outer border but other colours work, too:
I add a bit of white to the bluish-grey from the last step and use it to go over the bottom half of each iris to give the eyeball a bit of dimension:
The final step is to add the pupil. I use a tiny dot of black oil paint so if I screw up, I can remove it without affecting the acrylics underneath. Since the eyeball is partly covered by the eyelid, the pupil is also not completely round but slightly covered by the eyelid shadow as well:
Setting it aside to let that pupil dry fully before I finish the rest of the details on the eyes , eyelids and eyebrows. Photos to follow - thanks for looking in.
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
The face comes to life with the eyes. Beautifully painted, the face is great.
Cheers Simon
Cheers Simon
Canoehead
A Fixture
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Spot of insomnia last night so I finished up the eyes and got going on the beard.
Mixed up a pinkish flesh tone and applied it to the lower eyelid and eye bag. Also put a tiny spot of Cadmium Red in the corners of each eye:
Added the catchlight with a tiny spot of Titanium White. I mixed a lighter blue and put a tiny speck of it on the lower iris on the opposite side from the catchlight as well. The eyebrows were done with closely spaced tiny lines of Burnt Umber oil colour applied with a finely-pointed brush:
Pretty happy with the final result: tired and with that “thousand yard stare” vibe:
Mixed up a pinkish flesh tone and applied it to the lower eyelid and eye bag. Also put a tiny spot of Cadmium Red in the corners of each eye:
Added the catchlight with a tiny spot of Titanium White. I mixed a lighter blue and put a tiny speck of it on the lower iris on the opposite side from the catchlight as well. The eyebrows were done with closely spaced tiny lines of Burnt Umber oil colour applied with a finely-pointed brush:
Pretty happy with the final result: tired and with that “thousand yard stare” vibe:
Canoehead
A Fixture
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A few shots of the beard and hair. Laid on a base coat of Burnt Umber oils, then used a clean brush to remove a bit of it from the high points. Added a bit of Naples Yellow and Burnt Sienna to the Burnt Umber and lightly caught the high points of the hair (will be repeating this one more time methinks).
To make the hair growth look a bit more ragged, I used a fine brush and the Burnt Umber oil colour to make very thin lines of varying lengths and densities along the borders of the beard and hairline:
To make the hair growth look a bit more ragged, I used a fine brush and the Burnt Umber oil colour to make very thin lines of varying lengths and densities along the borders of the beard and hairline:
Hi Brian
Excellent SBS description on the flesh ...once the heads finished can I add to my painting reference thread ?
Fleshwork is looking great
Looking forward to seeing more
Nap
Excellent SBS description on the flesh ...once the heads finished can I add to my painting reference thread ?
Fleshwork is looking great
Looking forward to seeing more
Nap
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
Looking really ace, love the way you've done the hair & beard.
Cheers Simon
Cheers Simon
Canoehead
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Thanks Rob, Malc, Briggsy, Ski, Marco et. al - kind of you all.
Thanks too for the comment on the photos. My set up couldn’t be simpler - my old iPhone 8 with my 2 light painting set up for general illumination. The background is a 10”x10” piece of white poster board taped to the shelf that sits in front of me. Apart from the zoom feature, I let the iPhone do all the work - except for the steady hands…they’re still mine (thank goodness!)
Pleasure , great to see the flesh progress ...cheers for clear pics as well
Looking forward to seeing more
Nap
Mike - The Kiwi
A Fixture
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- Messages
- 2,918
Nice evolution of this fellow Brian.
Like extra detail you’ve added to help personalise him.
He’s got a wary look to his eyes which seems appropriate to conditions these guys operates in.
MikeTheKiwi
Like extra detail you’ve added to help personalise him.
He’s got a wary look to his eyes which seems appropriate to conditions these guys operates in.
MikeTheKiwi
Canoehead
A Fixture
- Joined
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- 216
On to the uniform next, although I will likely return to the face off and on to do some tweaking.
Acrylic undercoat first, mixed from Burnt Umber and “Christmas Green” lightened and desaturated with White:
Blocking in oils for highlights and shadows - another “ugly stage” begins:
The oils blended to create the basecoat “jungle green” tone. There’s a fair bit of mottling of the colour which works in my favour since the uniform is intended to look weather beaten and stained:
Second round of highlights and shadows once the first round has set up. Using oils for depicting green is a challenge since they tend to dry glossy on me, making it harder to judge how much more contrast needs to be added in. Letting them dry off a bit helps drop the sheen somewhat.
Thanks again for looking in - cheers.
Acrylic undercoat first, mixed from Burnt Umber and “Christmas Green” lightened and desaturated with White:
Blocking in oils for highlights and shadows - another “ugly stage” begins:
The oils blended to create the basecoat “jungle green” tone. There’s a fair bit of mottling of the colour which works in my favour since the uniform is intended to look weather beaten and stained:
Second round of highlights and shadows once the first round has set up. Using oils for depicting green is a challenge since they tend to dry glossy on me, making it harder to judge how much more contrast needs to be added in. Letting them dry off a bit helps drop the sheen somewhat.
Thanks again for looking in - cheers.
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
Looking good with the shirt, fading, stains and sweat, going to be a busy shirt to paint.
Cheers Simon
Cheers Simon
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