Artist’s oils over acrylics.

[Len K.]

Hello folks. I have been painting figures with artist’s oils over hobby enamels for over thirty years. I love the deep vibrant colors and the slow drying time of oils and now have come to work well with them. The problem I am having is that hobby enamels are all disappearing. All of the major manufactures have stopped or are in the process of eliminating production of oil based enamels. I am forced to now look at base painting my figures with acrylics. Am I able to still finish paint a figure with artist’s oils over acrylic paint? Are there any issues I should know about and what are some good brands of acrylics.

Thanks,
Len

 

[DaddyO]

Nope is the short answer.

Prime the figure first with a decent quality primer add the acrylic base coats and you're good to go. (Acrylics benefit from a primer to key the surface, although some manage without in my experience it makes the acrylics vulnerable to scuffs and damage)

Several painters on here who paint in oils over acrylics who will surely chip in at some point

Paul

ps incidentally I've found that genuine 'oil' paint is rare these days, even my beloved sign writing enamels are changing over to polymer based formulas which are thinned with white spirits. The net result is poorer opacity and handling

 

[Len K.]

Any recommendations on primer. I have used Floquil Rail Road Colors primer since I can remember. It covers great, shrinks into the detail and leaves a very flat surface with good bite. It brushed on great. Unfortunately that company is long gone and I am down to my last bottle.

 

[marta]

From what I know plenty of people paint with oils over acrylics.
I tried once, over 10 years ago, and the figure still looks as it was fresh. I can’t see any deterioration whatsoever.

As to brands of acrylics any hobby range will be good as a base.

Primer wise I swear by mr hobby surfacer.

Cheers
eM

 

[Doug Halke]

Been using mostly Vallejo acrylics for my base over Tamiya spray surface primer. Basically because they're easily available at a couple of shops in the area and there's a wide variety of good colors in the Vallejo line. Used to swear by the Floquil primer, too, because I could brush it on easily - but, alas...:-(

Cheers,
Doug

 

[JasonB]

Vallejo makes a really good primer in black, white and gray. I like it even better than Tamiya primer, which is good as well. One thing I have always used is Grumbacher odorless thinner. Its very mild, barely strong enough to clean a brush, but has never effected any acrylic base coat I have put it over, and I rarely let my acrylic base coats dry long before over coating them. And I use CHEAP acrylics, the stuff that Walmart sells (Apple Barrel) and its really good stuff especially considering you get a 2oz bottle for (sometimes) less than $1 USD, and a wide variety of colors. You just need to be comfortable mixing colors, since obviously they aren't FS, RAL or whatever.

 

[megroot]

I prime with Vallejo primer white. Then I paint with acrylic from Vallejo a basecoat.
Then all the fun begins with the oils.

Marc

 

[Ned Ricks]

Hiya, Len -
Like you, I have used oils over enamels for a long time.
My local hobby shop now carries almost all acrylics. The "big box" Hobby Lobby has some enamels, and, curiously, my local hardware store's hobby aisle has the Revell enamels. Some online sites (Sprue Bothers for one) still offer my favorites - Humbrol.
Keep a smile
NR

 

[Russ]

I often use oils over whatever, just because they're easier for me to blend. Just make sure to 1) put them on in THIN coats, and 2) let them dry/cure COMPLETELY.

Other than that, I'll mostly echo the other posters, and toss in a chip for Tamiya Surface Primer in the spray can. It's good for basically any material (but it doesn't work so well on raspberry jam), so it's versatile in that way; tough, good coverage, and can take any normal abuse. My one gripe is that I've not found it in black, just white and gray, so I'll sometimes start with Krylon black, then the Tamiya white or gray.

Then follow your heart on the layering sequence. The rule used to be LEA: Lacquer first, then Enamels, then Acrylics, mostly because of the differences in cure times; but if you allow each layer to cure fully, that hasn't been a problem in my experience.

 

[Len K.]

A few craft shops around here carry a small quantity of Testors enamels in the small bottles, very limited flat colors though. I’ll start converting to acrylics for base painting. I’m not a guy who handles change well though.

 

[dmcHobbes]

If you are comfortable with the primer you currently use, of course stick with it. Somebody on this forum years ago used auto body primer. I tried it and it has worked well for me. I have used Brite Touch General Purchase Paint - Grey and Black. Also, Smart Shade Spray Primer Grey. 10oz cans purchased from local auto supply stores.

Doug