Artist’s oils over acrylics.

[Len K.]

Hello folks. I have been painting figures with artist’s oils over hobby enamels for over thirty years. I love the deep vibrant colors and the slow drying time of oils and now have come to work well with them. The problem I am having is that hobby enamels are all disappearing. All of the major manufactures have stopped or are in the process of eliminating production of oil based enamels. I am forced to now look at base painting my figures with acrylics. Am I able to still finish paint a figure with artist’s oils over acrylic paint? Are there any issues I should know about and what are some good brands of acrylics.

Thanks,
Len

 

[DaddyO]

Nope is the short answer.

Prime the figure first with a decent quality primer add the acrylic base coats and you're good to go. (Acrylics benefit from a primer to key the surface, although some manage without in my experience it makes the acrylics vulnerable to scuffs and damage)

Several painters on here who paint in oils over acrylics who will surely chip in at some point

Paul

ps incidentally I've found that genuine 'oil' paint is rare these days, even my beloved sign writing enamels are changing over to polymer based formulas which are thinned with white spirits. The net result is poorer opacity and handling

 

[Len K.]

Any recommendations on primer. I have used Floquil Rail Road Colors primer since I can remember. It covers great, shrinks into the detail and leaves a very flat surface with good bite. It brushed on great. Unfortunately that company is long gone and I am down to my last bottle.

 

[marta]

From what I know plenty of people paint with oils over acrylics.
I tried once, over 10 years ago, and the figure still looks as it was fresh. I can’t see any deterioration whatsoever.

As to brands of acrylics any hobby range will be good as a base.

Primer wise I swear by mr hobby surfacer.

Cheers
eM

 

[Doug Halke]

Been using mostly Vallejo acrylics for my base over Tamiya spray surface primer. Basically because they're easily available at a couple of shops in the area and there's a wide variety of good colors in the Vallejo line. Used to swear by the Floquil primer, too, because I could brush it on easily - but, alas...:-(

Cheers,
Doug

 

[JasonB]

Vallejo makes a really good primer in black, white and gray. I like it even better than Tamiya primer, which is good as well. One thing I have always used is Grumbacher odorless thinner. Its very mild, barely strong enough to clean a brush, but has never effected any acrylic base coat I have put it over, and I rarely let my acrylic base coats dry long before over coating them. And I use CHEAP acrylics, the stuff that Walmart sells (Apple Barrel) and its really good stuff especially considering you get a 2oz bottle for (sometimes) less than $1 USD, and a wide variety of colors. You just need to be comfortable mixing colors, since obviously they aren't FS, RAL or whatever.

 

[megroot]

I prime with Vallejo primer white. Then I paint with acrylic from Vallejo a basecoat.
Then all the fun begins with the oils.

Marc

 

[Ned Ricks]

Hiya, Len -
Like you, I have used oils over enamels for a long time.
My local hobby shop now carries almost all acrylics. The "big box" Hobby Lobby has some enamels, and, curiously, my local hardware store's hobby aisle has the Revell enamels. Some online sites (Sprue Bothers for one) still offer my favorites - Humbrol.
Keep a smile
NR

 

[Russ]

I often use oils over whatever, just because they're easier for me to blend. Just make sure to 1) put them on in THIN coats, and 2) let them dry/cure COMPLETELY.

Other than that, I'll mostly echo the other posters, and toss in a chip for Tamiya Surface Primer in the spray can. It's good for basically any material (but it doesn't work so well on raspberry jam), so it's versatile in that way; tough, good coverage, and can take any normal abuse. My one gripe is that I've not found it in black, just white and gray, so I'll sometimes start with Krylon black, then the Tamiya white or gray.

Then follow your heart on the layering sequence. The rule used to be LEA: Lacquer first, then Enamels, then Acrylics, mostly because of the differences in cure times; but if you allow each layer to cure fully, that hasn't been a problem in my experience.

 

[Len K.]

A few craft shops around here carry a small quantity of Testors enamels in the small bottles, very limited flat colors though. I’ll start converting to acrylics for base painting. I’m not a guy who handles change well though.

 

[dmcHobbes]

If you are comfortable with the primer you currently use, of course stick with it. Somebody on this forum years ago used auto body primer. I tried it and it has worked well for me. I have used Brite Touch General Purchase Paint - Grey and Black. Also, Smart Shade Spray Primer Grey. 10oz cans purchased from local auto supply stores.

Doug

 

[Frank Marcus]

I always spray a layer of Mr Surfacer and let it dry completely.
Then I immediately bring out the oils. One thin layer, let it dry a couple of days and then finish with oils.
Yes, you have to be patient but this method has the great advantage that the finish has no shine (or very little).
Works well for me.

Regards,

Frank

 

[Stephan]

I have been painting with oil over acrylic for thirty years, I still have paints from Andrea, I use the black or white primer from Vallejo as a base. I haven't had any problems so far.

 

[Len K.]

Thanks for all the information everyone. I’m just wondering how easily the acrylics will brush on to larger surfaces, 250mm-1/6 scale figures.

 

[marta]

Thanks for all the information everyone. I’m just wondering how easily the acrylics will brush on to larger surfaces, 250mm-1/6 scale figures.

For this scale, I would suggest airbrush. Or at least bigot flat brush.

 

[Len K.]

I’ve painted large scale figures for years with a brush only. To be honest an air brush scares the hell out of me. Both these figures are 1/6 scale painted with a brush only.

 

[Steve T]

Fantastic work! The colors look great and I can see why you prefer to use oil based paints.
I also use either the Valejjo or Mr surfacer primers, which can sometimes be hard to find in my location .....

 

[marta]

I’ve painted large scale figures for years with a brush only. To be honest an air brush scares the hell out of me. Both these figures are 1/6 scale painted with a brush only.

View attachment 704671View attachment 704672

Great work!

Not sure about enamels, but acrylics do dry rather fast on a model. So it might be a challenge to apply a nice even coat of acrylic paints on such big models. But if you definitely want to avoid airbrush (they are a pain in the neck to clean after all) try bigger flat brush and maybe use drying retarder to extend working time.

cheers
eM

 

[alfsboy]

I have been painting for decades but stopped mainly a few years ago but getting back in it .the only figure I ever airbrushed was the London Scottish drum major by Real Model (shows how old I am ) which was for the cover of Military Modelling .I used model railroad paints (scalecoat )for the main tunic as it s a large piece and I was very short of time.I was also airbrushing lots of US brass locos so had the paint ..for paiting I use just about anything .The paint I really miss is Blackwells oil bound resin ,again shows how old I am, which was used by many painters or Greenwood and Ball and staddern figures.it mixed with artists oil paints perfectly ,matt and dried it all quicker .

These days I am using mainly car primer spray as a basis with Valejo ,Tamiya and some oils still .Tamiya and Valejo are different acrylics . Tamiya is a resin bound and much tougher than the others.It takes nitro paint over it .valejo is fine for having oils covering it .I often use it as a base for oils, ie paint the model in the basic colours then do all the fancy stuff in oils . I often use Humbrol for the same job .I used to paint figures professionally way back .i enclose a shot of my Viking sculpt and paint job done in the eighties.it was aone off .No castings .The leather strapping and belts work is real leather and the sword is detachable and nickle silver
Martin