Drawer Full Of Glue!....useless.

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

Can anybody help!..... I seem to have a drawer full of various 'Glue's', but they all seem useless! I work with 90mm, white metal figures, but for some reason I cannot find an effective glue! I have two stage resin glue's (Various), and a shed load of different 'Super-Glues', etc. Is there a definitive top-notch glue that modeller's use?

 

[housecarl]

Wicke's own epoxy. 5minutes, and sticks like **** to a blanket.
Carl.

 

[Wings5797]

May be brand **** would work would work too.
Seriously Carl is right about Wikes own brand.
Cheers,
Keith

 

[JonP]

For the bigger parts I use Araldite Rapid as well as pinning the parts and for the smaller parts I use Zap cyano. If I'm being impatient I'll Araldite the larger joints and tack them into place with cyano so I don't have to hold the joint whilst it dries. I have been known to solder larger joints too.

 

[Tecumsea]

Modern Epoxy doesn't seem to have the same rigidity as those I bought years ago and takes much longer to go off in my experience....I suppose like so many things some chemical or other has been forceably removed. I'll try the Wicks stuff, thanks for the tip Carl

 

[bed172]

Not sure where you are in the world but here in the U.S. Gorilla brand super glue is fantastic stuff. Also Techbond brand super glue is just as good if not better.
I've used every thing from hobby super glues to industrial strength super glues and the Gorilla or Techbond is the best I've ever used.

 

[RFL]

The all that`s available here is Devon 2 part 5 min. setting epoxies ( which was never a great product even way back ) are what I use for heavy parts or stuff that need positioning time. I would agree that they don`t seem to be close to past quality, and there seems no way to get the good industrial type stuff in small hobby amounts. That said, they all require an almost exact 50-50% mix to set up. ...opened they have poor shelf life, and not much better from the store.

I`ve been using Ambroid SE-Cure-It for resin figs, and it`s pretty decent, if you rough up the contact surfaces, plus has the huge advantage of being non toxic. I may test it on white metal soon.

 

[Tecumsea]

I use superglue for Resin, once it dries it seems almost impossible to prise it apart. Following one of the Threads on here I bought some Gator Glue..........horrendous stuff, expands uncontrollably as it hardens and goes everywhere Sets like concrete, which is exactly what it had done in the bottle when I went to try it again .....best avoided

Keith

 

[Johan]

this is a good one - I've used it with large scale resin figures from for example Alpine Miniatures, Maurice Corry, Stormtroopers etc and also on figures from Debra Raymond which were part resin, part metal. You need a sledgehammer to take them apart again.

 

[IIICorps]

Regular old off-the-shelf Superglue works for me. Occasionally I use the gel, but the regular runny stuff is my first choice.

 

[Russ5281]

When need be, I go with JB Weld two-part epoxy. Dries fast and hard as a rock. I've heard of mechanics using it to seal cracks in engine blocks.

Russ

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

Thanks, there are a few products here that I have not heard of. .......

Regards,

Mark.

 

[polyphemus]

One old trick with 2 part epoxy is to warm the glue, mix the glue on aluminium foil and leave it on a heat source such as a radiator for a minute or so. The glue becomes more liquid and sets faster and harder. It also helps if the parts to be joined are also warmed.

Geoff

 

[Mark S]

I use the exact same products and method as Jon has described and find it to be very successful. Having said that though one thing I've noticed lately is that some white metal figures I put together with Araldite back in the late neolithic era when I was a youngster (approx. 30 years ago) are gradually falling apart.
But I'll never know if it was because I mixed it incorrectly, used it incorrectly, or the mixture was not as good as it is now or whether that's as long as we can expect a modern glue to last.

BTW Mark, don't get any of these glues on your old clay pipe mate, not a good look for an old fella to have his pipe stuck to his teeth.

 

[Mark S]

That's great advice, polyphemus. I wonder if some of my older figures would still be intact if I'd done that?

 

[Mark S]

?

 

[Funky50]

I find the superglues work great but you have to use an accelerator to get it to go off more or less instantly...I use a product called Zap Zip Kicker just put a search in on e bay and its bound to show up also good for closing gaps on figures ...hope this helps

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

'Hmmph', Uhung, flue icking, Grumph'... late!!!

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

That, JB Weld, looks/sounds, good!.... thanks Russ! As, I said I work with, 90mm, white metal, not resin , So, most, super-glues, seem/are, pretty useless. or will be, as the figure I have in mind, will require sub-assembly, and painting, and filling. So constant handling,manipulation, in the latter stages, will really test the glue's bond...... It's a big old mounted bugger.

Thanks for the advice,

Mark.

Illigitimis nil Carborundum.

 

[Blind Pew]

I use either Loctite gel - great stuff for control, or for heavy stuff, look out in pound shops for '151 Super Epoxy'. About £1 a go and nobody is telling me it isn't Araldite Rapid epoxy which is £5 a pop. The only change is the packaging. It smells the same and the instructions read the same on the packaging, word-for-word.
The taste I don't know about.