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Completed Critique East Riding Yeoman

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Nice work, one trick I employ before starting the tunic is to add the belt, then sculpt up to it but leaving it standing proud. It helps getting the proportions of the torso right, not that yours isn't, also treating the above and below the belt as separate areas you have more control on the cut of the cloth.

He's coming along at a tremendous pace and looking really good.

Cheers Simon
 
Hi Stefan

That’s looking really good , trousers look much better , like the fit of trousers on the boots as well

Wise words from Mr Briggsy

Look forward to seeing more

Nap
 
Thanks chaps. I wondered about taking that approach, I've sort of gone for a half way house - I focused on sculpting the skirt and getting that to a point I'm happy with, the top half is really just a step in fleshing out the torso. I think if I add the belt now I should then be able to add the plastron and then from there flesh out the flanks if needed.
 
Thanks chaps. I wondered about taking that approach, I've sort of gone for a half way house - I focused on sculpting the skirt and getting that to a point I'm happy with, the top half is really just a step in fleshing out the torso. I think if I add the belt now I should then be able to add the plastron and then from there flesh out the flanks if needed.

It just makes sense to me to break the figure down into manageable sections, after all you can only work the putty for so long. I don't recall is the plaster on on the drab uniform the same shape as on the maroon full dress version?

Cheers Simon
 
I know what you mean, I think that’s basically what I’ve done. The plastron is on and I’m moderately happy with the shape. I stitched myself up here by having the torso slightly twisted which made shaping much harder. IMG_9111.jpeg
 
Thanks Nap, they are great images. My friend Neil sent me this too which is proving helpful.

IMG_9114.jpeg

The kids woke me early today so I added a collar.

IMG_9113.jpeg

Now I think I need to do the cap lines and collar dogs. I’m wondering about using some synthetic cord for cap lines rather than putty, or I might try green stuff as it’s easier to make thin sausages.

I’m planning on 3D printing buttons, my printer is US until some bits arrive, once they get here I can probably get the buttons and whip made.
 
Looking good, personally I'd raise the Lancer girdle a little, the jacket skirts look a little short and the plastron slightly too long, just a matter of mm's but it makes a difference.

Aside from that he's looking darned good, in that scale dress makers pin heads might be the rights sort of size for buttons.

As for kids mine are a bit too old for that sort of thing but they still give me sleepless nights, I always found popping them in the freezer and defrosting in the microwave before the wife gets home gave me plenty of peace and quiet!

Cheers Simon
 
Thanks chaps, Nap, you're right on the Plastron, I left it straight at the top as I wasn't sure where the collar and epaulettes would lie so I'll trim it back when it's properly set.

Interesting one on the girdle Briggsy, again I think you're probably right. I'll have a play. It also looks a bit odd from behind, shouldn't take much to fix though. I've also just remembered I need room for pockets.
 
Thanks chaps, Nap, you're right on the Plastron, I left it straight at the top as I wasn't sure where the collar and epaulettes would lie so I'll trim it back when it's properly set.

Interesting one on the girdle Briggsy, again I think you're probably right. I'll have a play. It also looks a bit odd from behind, shouldn't take much to fix though. I've also just remembered I need room for pockets.

It's all a learning curve and that's what's so good about this site, always somebody willing to help. Personally I find Lancer uniforms harder than a Hussar with all the braiding, with the rear detail, the plastron and then the cap lines there is a heck of a lot to get in.

I forgot to mention in my last response, cap lines, yeah not easy but if you get some fine solder wire, it gets down to about 0.3mm I think it is far easier than rolling g putty which is always difficult to get a consistent thickness. Plus the putty will only roll out so far before it starts to break up, it can be fairly fragile but can be manipulated easier than rolled out putty.

Cheers Simon
 
I raised it by a bit and it’s definitely better, what do you think? More? [edit: I raised it even more and I think it’s an improvement, the belt is a touch wide now but I’m tempted to leave it, it’s not quite accurate but aesthetically it makes the proportions work.]

IMG_9117.jpeg

I’ve got some jewellery wire I use for tanks that goes down to 0.1mm, I wonder if I could twist that and anneal it to make it soft enough to make a cap line?
 
Hi Stefan

The girdle looks better , it does look too thick in my opinion ,my thoughts are to slightly reduce from the lower edge and just increase the opening suitably

As for the caplines ....I agree with Mike and Briggsy ...fine solder wire

Look forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap
 
I raised it by a bit and it’s definitely better, what do you think? More? [edit: I raised it even more and I think it’s an improvement, the belt is a touch wide now but I’m tempted to leave it, it’s not quite accurate but aesthetically it makes the proportions work.]

View attachment 493666

I’ve got some jewellery wire I use for tanks that goes down to 0.1mm, I wonder if I could twist that and anneal it to make it soft enough to make a cap line?

The girdle is a bit wide, maybe like Kev said take a wee bit off the bottom and I reckon you've cracked it.

Solder wire is soft enough not to need annealing but yeah if you can make the wire pliant and not springy then yes it'd do the job.

Back to the girdle, don't forget the side fastening, that's one I nearly always forget! He's starting to look the business mate, gonna be a cracking figure.

Cheers Simon
 
Cheers chaps, I’ll look into fine solder, sounds useful.

I’ve thinned it down, it’s definitely an improvement. I could probably take more off but it’s starting to chip away the other layers when I remove it so I’ll probably stop there, even it out and sand it back to sort the thickness.

IMG_9118.jpeg
 
Buttons added. I 3D printed half ball buttons in the right size with a 0.6mm ‘shank’, drilled holes and glued them in place, pretty happy with the technique and a quick pass with sand paper should bring them to a slightly better shape. I’ll fill in the error holes with excess magic sculpt later.



IMG_9128.jpeg
 
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