Havildar 36th (Sikh) Regiment, Bengal Infantry 1898

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NigelR said:
Another great unique piece, an interesting subject and very nicely handled. I love the way you painted the uniform colours in particular, the end result is a very striking figure.
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Cheers Nigel, I tried to vary the reds and blues and I am pleased with the yellow, a colour I usually struggle with.

Cheers Simon
 
Hi Simon,

He really looks the part. A tall lanky and grizzled fellow, typical build for a Sikh! Excellent piece.

Rgds Victor
 
Briggsy said:
Thank you most kindly, I just wish my photography was up to the job, I can only really manage poor photos.

Cheers Simon
Click to expand...

I don't know what equipment you have at your disposal, I can give you my method, it might help you.....

I use an APS-C camera, an old Pentax K3 about ten years old now. The lens is a fixed 35mm, on an APS-C, it corresponds to a 50mm which represents the standard vision of an eye, without pronounced distortion. I place the camera on a tripod. I adjust the level with a small spirit level recovered from a meter, which allows me to be straight to take my photos. Then I set the timer to 3 seconds, that is to say that when I trigger the photo, the shooting starts 3 seconds later, which avoids motion blur. I never use a flash or a desk lamp to light the figurine. Moreover, the subject to be photographed is placed on a support in the shade, that is to say that there is no direct daylight reaching the subject and could distort the shadows and lights applied with the brush. The camera is set with aperture priority (F22) which allows a great depth of field, so I am certain that the subject is sharp. I also set ISO 100. The camera will determine the exposure time, for example 4 seconds. I then check the result. If the image is a little too dark (underexposed) for my taste, I switch to manual mode and set the camera again with F22, ISO 100 and exposure time 6 seconds, or 2 seconds more to obtain a brighter image. If it is too light, I set an exposure time of 5 seconds. Manual mode allows me to freely choose all the shooting criteria. Sometimes I do a lot of tests before finding the right exposure time.

There you have it, these are just a few little tips that can make life easier, if you have any questions, don't hesitate.
 
Another great figure, Simon! Again, it was fun to follow along as you sculpted and painted him. I love the scarlet and appreciate your explanations on how you achieved the color.
Looking forward now to your next project!

Prost!
Brad
 
BRAN said:
I don't know what equipment you have at your disposal, I can give you my method, it might help you.....

I use an APS-C camera, an old Pentax K3 about ten years old now. The lens is a fixed 35mm, on an APS-C, it corresponds to a 50mm which represents the standard vision of an eye, without pronounced distortion. I place the camera on a tripod. I adjust the level with a small spirit level recovered from a meter, which allows me to be straight to take my photos. Then I set the timer to 3 seconds, that is to say that when I trigger the photo, the shooting starts 3 seconds later, which avoids motion blur. I never use a flash or a desk lamp to light the figurine. Moreover, the subject to be photographed is placed on a support in the shade, that is to say that there is no direct daylight reaching the subject and could distort the shadows and lights applied with the brush. The camera is set with aperture priority (F22) which allows a great depth of field, so I am certain that the subject is sharp. I also set ISO 100. The camera will determine the exposure time, for example 4 seconds. I then check the result. If the image is a little too dark (underexposed) for my taste, I switch to manual mode and set the camera again with F22, ISO 100 and exposure time 6 seconds, or 2 seconds more to obtain a brighter image. If it is too light, I set an exposure time of 5 seconds. Manual mode allows me to freely choose all the shooting criteria. Sometimes I do a lot of tests before finding the right exposure time.

There you have it, these are just a few little tips that can make life easier, if you have any questions, don't hesitate.
Click to expand...

I very much appreciate that Bran, I am stuck with the camera on my Samsung phone. I did try to take up photography as a hobby in the 80's, that failed miserably and I am no better now than I was then so I am going to have to stick with what I can do or hire a professional!

Cheers Simon
 
I'm late..... !!
A really nice figure, Simon.
And great to see an original subject. Scratch-built, well-sculpted and nicely painted.
 
David Spencer said:
I'm late..... !!
A really nice figure, Simon.
And great to see an original subject. Scratch-built, well-sculpted and nicely painted.
Click to expand...

Cheers David thanks for the compliment, I'll never call my stuff scratch built because I use commercial pieces like heads, hands and weapons, just a bit of a conversion!

Cheers Simon
 
Simon,
I think it's mostly been said. He's great. I will now go back and see the build on vBench. Especially interested in looking at your painting techniques for the scarlet,,,,I have a figure that will be two further down the build line and he will require a scarlet tunic.
Keep them coming, please.
Kim
 
Canterbury Coxswain said:
Simon,
I think it's mostly been said. He's great. I will now go back and see the build on vBench. Especially interested in looking at your painting techniques for the scarlet,,,,I have a figure that will be two further down the build line and he will require a scarlet tunic.
Keep them coming, please.
Kim
Click to expand...

Cheers Kim I'm pleased you like it, for me the secret to a good bright scarlet is to underpaint it in white, the light undercoat adds to the chroma of the top coat and not overdoing the highlights. Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

Cheers Simon
 
Seen and noted Simon, regarding the 'scarlet', so I've started a 'notes to self' for the figure concerned [Malcolm Oatley at FMMG has given me a couple of tips too, regarding the overall colours for the figure bust] and this will help greatly in the New Year.
Your current tips on paper v. thin plasticard on your 'Heavy Metal' build will help so many folk in their builds too, whether it be cuffs, turnbacks, scarves or turbans. Passing on 'failures' as well as success will always be an encouragement to so many of us that are 'new to this hobby'. Thanks.
Regards,
Kim
 
Canterbury Coxswain said:
Seen and noted Simon, regarding the 'scarlet', so I've started a 'notes to self' for the figure concerned [Malcolm Oatley at FMMG has given me a couple of tips too, regarding the overall colours for the figure bust] and this will help greatly in the New Year.
Your current tips on paper v. thin plasticard on your 'Heavy Metal' build will help so many folk in their builds too, whether it be cuffs, turnbacks, scarves or turbans. Passing on 'failures' as well as success will always be an encouragement to so many of us that are 'new to this hobby'. Thanks.
Regards,
Kim
Click to expand...

Happy to be of assistance, I have no problems covering my failures, it's the flogging a dead horse to make something work I gloss over.

I find paper very helpful when modelling, to make lace or trouser stripes etc and even to give me a straight edge making tunic skirts and the like. It might be old school techniques but it works for me and 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'.

Cheers Simon
 

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