Wayneb
A Fixture
This is going to be a good one Ron.............Regards.............Wayne
Horse SBS
- Thread starter Ron Tamburrini
- Start date
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mick3272
A Fixture
Ron.
Excuse my ignorance I have seen water soluble oil paint, Is that what you use if not can it be used.
Mick
Excuse my ignorance I have seen water soluble oil paint, Is that what you use if not can it be used.
Mick
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
You had a wee dram or two Mick
no water soluble oils in this house only the real thing , oil and water don't mix just like electricity
mick3272
A Fixture
Ron.
This is what I have seen I take it its not the same.
https://www.jacksonsart.com/jacksons-aqua-oil-watermixable-colour
What are watermixable oil paints?
Ideal for those who work at home or those who are more sensitive to harmful and abrasive solvents, water mixable oil colour allows you to enjoy the rich and luscious nature of oil colour whilst being able to wash brushes and thin colour with water – the best of both worlds! All watermixable oil colour ranges can be mixed with one another. Holbein Duo Aqua and Winsor and Newton Artisan also have their own range of water mixable thinners and mediums. Please note that while these colours are water-mixable, they are still oil based, and so supports should still be sized and primed properly to prevent the oil from rotting the support.
Mick
This is what I have seen I take it its not the same.
https://www.jacksonsart.com/jacksons-aqua-oil-watermixable-colour
What are watermixable oil paints?
Ideal for those who work at home or those who are more sensitive to harmful and abrasive solvents, water mixable oil colour allows you to enjoy the rich and luscious nature of oil colour whilst being able to wash brushes and thin colour with water – the best of both worlds! All watermixable oil colour ranges can be mixed with one another. Holbein Duo Aqua and Winsor and Newton Artisan also have their own range of water mixable thinners and mediums. Please note that while these colours are water-mixable, they are still oil based, and so supports should still be sized and primed properly to prevent the oil from rotting the support.
Mick
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Said I would touch on the prep up on this MM kit . If you are new to them here is a couple of pointers .
As usual drill and pin when possible , there is not a lot of room for pining re the legs so if I am not using the supplied base , after pining I set the model in millput to give it a bit more strength see
pic 1 here .
you will see the indents left in the putty , cocktail sticks were placed in the drill holes and to keep them clear and the putty pushed down into place then the horse was pushed into the putty to make imprint Pic 2
Note pic three I drill a hole into the underside of my bases to give extra security when transporting , dowels are fixe in the base plate of the carrying case the model fits over and is secured in the usual fashion IE blutac at the four corners ' This saved the day last year when some idiot tipped my case over to 545 deg going thru the scanner at Edinburgh airport ,it actually held the two large pegaso mounted figs at the beginning of this thread.
As we are doing MM kits here is a little tip re doing the reins which will need to be cut from the foil supplied or something of your own choosing.
What I use is lead foil from veinards fly tying stuff , it is just that little bit firmer to make a difference ; you will need to remove the sticky backing though.
When cutting the lead I now yous a small set square as you can put pressure on from the front as well as the top which will stop anything from moving.
Reins in place and the lead foil 
Will prime today for next post. Any questions ; don't hesitate .
As usual drill and pin when possible , there is not a lot of room for pining re the legs so if I am not using the supplied base , after pining I set the model in millput to give it a bit more strength see
pic 1 here .
you will see the indents left in the putty , cocktail sticks were placed in the drill holes and to keep them clear and the putty pushed down into place then the horse was pushed into the putty to make imprint Pic 2
Note pic three I drill a hole into the underside of my bases to give extra security when transporting , dowels are fixe in the base plate of the carrying case the model fits over and is secured in the usual fashion IE blutac at the four corners ' This saved the day last year when some idiot tipped my case over to 545 deg going thru the scanner at Edinburgh airport ,it actually held the two large pegaso mounted figs at the beginning of this thread.As we are doing MM kits here is a little tip re doing the reins which will need to be cut from the foil supplied or something of your own choosing.
What I use is lead foil from veinards fly tying stuff , it is just that little bit firmer to make a difference ; you will need to remove the sticky backing though.
When cutting the lead I now yous a small set square as you can put pressure on from the front as well as the top which will stop anything from moving.
Reins in place and the lead foil 
Will prime today for next post. Any questions ; don't hesitate .
Viking Bob
PlanetFigure Supporter
Excellent stuff.
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Hi Huw nice to see you are watching
I am going to move this over to Articals and SBS as my good friend and tormentor at times informs me I am in the wrong Place for this Thread . cheers father Jack
Now then how do I move it over ?
Ask a mod mate
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Update
First horse primed and base coated ; all ready to go . will start tomorrow as I don't like painting horses under total artificial light .
Some pics of what I am aiming for , these are Pierre Conrad prints
last one here is a great source for the latest Pegaso fig " see I am still getting the 87.00 euro refund LOL"
I almost forgot , here is a little jig I made to make painting reins , just a bit of wire set into a n odd bit of wood but holds things taught for spraying
First horse primed and base coated ; all ready to go . will start tomorrow as I don't like painting horses under total artificial light .
Some pics of what I am aiming for , these are Pierre Conrad prints
last one here is a great source for the latest Pegaso fig " see I am still getting the 87.00 euro refund LOL"I almost forgot , here is a little jig I made to make painting reins , just a bit of wire set into a n odd bit of wood but holds things taught for spraying
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
OOPs forgot to show the Horse
Primed 
undercoat with Tamiya XF55
Primed 
undercoat with Tamiya XF55
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Its already done Mr Helm
kagemusha
A Fixture
Nice little jig for holding straps etc. Mr T....simple but effective
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Just a note on setup . I try to standardise my bases re the Nap stuff as it is a collection.
For MM mounted I use a base size of 105 x 65 x 40 mm deep and set the horse at an angle as this looks best and can imply movement to a pretty static figure .
A little note on name plates re size . this is something that Del brought to notice recently in a PM , it has got to be in proportion to the base or it looks odd .
About one third is just about right and you gotta watch the font type " nameit has some good guide lines here "
Like it or lump it but presentation makes a big difference , something the european guys seem to excel at . Gone are the days of sticking models on a wooden light pastern " there is plenty on here will remember them "
For MM mounted I use a base size of 105 x 65 x 40 mm deep and set the horse at an angle as this looks best and can imply movement to a pretty static figure .
A little note on name plates re size . this is something that Del brought to notice recently in a PM , it has got to be in proportion to the base or it looks odd .
About one third is just about right and you gotta watch the font type " nameit has some good guide lines here "
Like it or lump it but presentation makes a big difference , something the european guys seem to excel at . Gone are the days of sticking models on a wooden light pastern " there is plenty on here will remember them "
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Nice little jig for holding straps etc. Mr T....simple but effective
Cheers Ron , amazing what you come up with when you are bored waiting on things drying , the best is the little engineers square , stops the slip at the end of the cutting procedure as the pressure increases as you draw the blade towards you . It is anchored against the cutting block at right angles and cannot move .
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Started the fun part ,. Dark bay horse
Palette
L to R Mars black / Burnt Umber/ Tit white and Naples yellow deep which was only added in for the two hooves with the white socks.
Basic colour Burnt umber with a tad of M/black
colour brushed out and lifted off with dry filbert brushes
Highlights with Tit white and just a tad of the base mix ( see palette marked with arrow)
Blended out , will add shade later
Palette
L to R Mars black / Burnt Umber/ Tit white and Naples yellow deep which was only added in for the two hooves with the white socks.Basic colour Burnt umber with a tad of M/black
colour brushed out and lifted off with dry filbert brushes
Highlights with Tit white and just a tad of the base mix ( see palette marked with arrow)
Blended out , will add shade laterAttachments
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Basic colours complete but will go back in once all is dry , prob thursday
Had a little issue with the Mars black as it seems to have turned to tar in the tube , changed to Ivory black and messed up the mane so will need to wait till dry to go back over.
Added some linseed oil to the mars black which seems to have sorted the issue
Had a little issue with the Mars black as it seems to have turned to tar in the tube , changed to Ivory black and messed up the mane so will need to wait till dry to go back over.
Added some linseed oil to the mars black which seems to have sorted the issue
megroot
A Fixture
No undercoating???
I know Ivo Preda do it also this way, he says undercoating is coloring the primer.
Did I missed that, or do you paint also the oils directly on the primer.
Marc
I know Ivo Preda do it also this way, he says undercoating is coloring the primer.
Did I missed that, or do you paint also the oils directly on the primer.
Marc
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
HI
Hi Marc
Prime and let dry. Undercoat and allow to dry overnight , then you can start with the oils using filbert brushes , I use Artmaster pearl series 44 Number 10 and 8 .
These brushes are fairly cheap ; a couple of pounds a piece , I also used a couple of foundation makeup brushes but only on the final lifting off .
If I want the paint off quick I also use a bit of the foam from the packaging .
You can easily use five or six brushes in the process as they get saturated with paint you have to change to a fresh one and they must dry overnight before re using .
Here is a pic of the casualty list after a couple of hours work
This lot are all well past there best and will replace before starting the second horse which arrived today " Line Lancer "
Will take a couple of days to clean and fill the joints
Hi Marc
Prime and let dry. Undercoat and allow to dry overnight , then you can start with the oils using filbert brushes , I use Artmaster pearl series 44 Number 10 and 8 .
These brushes are fairly cheap ; a couple of pounds a piece , I also used a couple of foundation makeup brushes but only on the final lifting off .
If I want the paint off quick I also use a bit of the foam from the packaging .
You can easily use five or six brushes in the process as they get saturated with paint you have to change to a fresh one and they must dry overnight before re using .
Here is a pic of the casualty list after a couple of hours work
This lot are all well past there best and will replace before starting the second horse which arrived today " Line Lancer "Will take a couple of days to clean and fill the joints
