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Geo V

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Messages
10
Hi there - I'm new to this site. I've spent a lot of time building and painting figure models (plastic or resin), as well as painting 28mm miniatures.

However, I'm now starting on this lovely 90mm Andrea Knight. I've never tried these large size metal miniatures before. It's definitely gorgeous!

Any tips/hints? Or is it just like painting up a styrene plastic figure model kit?

Also, is there any place I can get affordable coats of arms/heraldry for both the shield and his tunic? I saw that I can order some off Andrea website but I was hoping to get it for less than $20-$25 (the cost shipped to California).

Anyway - just wanted to know if you have any advice for first-timer.

Thanks!
George
Knight Pic 1.jpg
image.jpeg
 
As it's white metal gently polish up the metal bits then run a blue/black wash over it for a realistic metal effect
Steve

Thanks Steve. Do you polish it with steel wool? And do you prime/paint the metal parts, or just polish it and use the wash?
 
Hi George

A BIG WELCOME to PF , you have certainly chosen a nice subject , why not search using keywords or also have a look at You Tube as well

I only do busts so can't really help as most of my stuff is resin and with out legs..lol

Andrea do books that might interest you

Happy painting

Nap

PS I put the other picture in for you

Have a look at the FOTM ( Figure of the Month ) ..a fun feature


image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
To polish white metal figures you can use nylon scouring pads, or extra fine steel wool. You have to be a bit careful to just polish and not remove detail, so allow the scouring to do the work and not pressure.

Most painters prime their figures with a fine spray paint.
if you wish, you can use silly putty to mask off the polished armour and prime the rest.
Most of us would use the sequence,
Armour then flesh then fabrics, but there's no rules.

If you mix a little varnish, blue, and black together as Steve suggests that will seal the polished mail and armour just as the primer paint does.

You can then go back later and add highlights.

Hope you enjoy this one, it's a great piece.
If you get stuck at any point.....just ask

Paul
 
For heraldry.
Break the shape down into component shapes, draw onto the model with a soft pencil and then paint, adjusting as you go.

If freehand painting is too intimidating at the outset,
you could get some decal film and print out your own waterslide pattern, apply and seal and then paint over it.

Home made decals are so easy to produce.

Paul.
 
Thanks Steve. Do you polish it with steel wool? And do you prime/paint the metal parts, or just polish it and use the wash?
Steel wool is possibly a bit harsh (depending on grade) I use a brass brush used for cleaning suede, for smooth surfaces you can use a pin or needle to polish it white metal polishes quite easily being soft, as Paul said be careful of any raised detail like rivets etc. I should have said that in my first post sorry
Steve
 
Hi everyone - thanks for the comments and suggestions! I've been laid low with a fever this weekend so I haven't been on-line. I'll read these in more detail and respond tonight. Thanks again!! Very nice community!
 
Hi George

A BIG WELCOME to PF , you have certainly chosen a nice subject , why not search using keywords or also have a look at You Tube as well

I only do busts so can't really help as most of my stuff is resin and with out legs..lol

Andrea do books that might interest you

Happy painting

Nap

PS I put the other picture in for you

Have a look at the FOTM ( Figure of the Month ) ..a fun feature


View attachment 271050 View attachment 271051

Nap - thanks so much for the warm welcome and tips! I did do some Google searching for the heraldry stuff for 90mm miniatures but didn't find anything. I'll check some more.

Thanks for adding the other picture for me!

And I just went on line and ordered those books by Andrea. I found them quite cheaply through some internet sleuthing. Looking forward to digging in to those when they arrive.

George
 
To polish white metal figures you can use nylon scouring pads, or extra fine steel wool. You have to be a bit careful to just polish and not remove detail, so allow the scouring to do the work and not pressure.

Most painters prime their figures with a fine spray paint.
if you wish, you can use silly putty to mask off the polished armour and prime the rest.
Most of us would use the sequence,
Armour then flesh then fabrics, but there's no rules.

If you mix a little varnish, blue, and black together as Steve suggests that will seal the polished mail and armour just as the primer paint does.

You can then go back later and add highlights.

Hope you enjoy this one, it's a great piece.
If you get stuck at any point.....just ask

Paul

Thanks Paul! Appreciate the warm welcome and tips. The tips on sequencing and polishing/priming are especially useful.

Do you pretty much use 2-part epoxy to glue everything together?

Best!
George
 
For heraldry.
Break the shape down into component shapes, draw onto the model with a soft pencil and then paint, adjusting as you go.

If freehand painting is too intimidating at the outset,
you could get some decal film and print out your own waterslide pattern, apply and seal and then paint over it.

Home made decals are so easy to produce.

Paul.

Thanks again Paul.

I consider myself a passable artist but not great. If I'm going to draw the pattern I'll keep it a pretty simple. :)

When you say "paint over it," do you mean if I just print out a pattern onto the decal film and apply it to the shield? Therefore, I would still need to actually paint it. But I suppose another option is to find a full-color heraldry image online and print that onto the decal film. Would that work? (Clearly I've never done this before, therefore the dumb questions).

George
 
Steel wool is possibly a bit harsh (depending on grade) I use a brass brush used for cleaning suede, for smooth surfaces you can use a pin or needle to polish it white metal polishes quite easily being soft, as Paul said be careful of any raised detail like rivets etc. I should have said that in my first post sorry
Steve

Excellent, Steve. Thanks again! I'll be sure to use something that won't damage the details.

George
 
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