Uruk-Hai
PlanetFigure Supporter
Hello Figureteers!
I have thought for a long time that it is a real hazzle to remove moldplugs on resin and metalfigures. Yet the only reasonable option is to use a minidrill with a router and then a sanding disc.
The resin chips becomes static and adheres to skin, clothes etc. The metal chips isnt static but sticks anyway overall and is sharp. Both chips is spread over the whole apartment causing the attention of SWMBO.
Not to mention the mess on the workdesk.
Heres an example of moldplug from a MIG bust.
Heres a picture of the stand I made afterwards as I found the height less than comfortable. Depending on where I choose to work.
The main structure where build up from MDF-board which I along with most of the material used in this project, just where laying around as they where leftovers from previous projects. Acrylic glas, rubbersheet, lampsockets etc where bought cheap here for about 3€ each and Im certain you guys can find such things even cheaper.
And this is the result.
The 2mm thick rubbersheet was attached with staples. Note that the staples has to be strong enough to penetrate the MDF-board and preferably a bit wider than normal as we dont want the rubber to eat through the staples. The rubbersheet had to be split in two to make it with just one sheet. But there where supposed to be slits for the hands there anyway as you see as an uneven cross.
The holes in the acrylic glas where drilled in stages. Starting small working my way up to the right diameter. Use really slow speed as the powerdrill otherwise melts the acrylic glas thus clogging the hole you just have drilled. I riveted the hinges to the acrylic glas with blind rivets. Only because I didnt have any screws and nuts of apropiate size at home. It worked on the testbit. It worked on first piece, but cracked the glas off the second piece?
The strip of wood act as an anti-glare device for the 2ea E14 25W lamps behind it.
And here it is with the previous mentioned lamps lit, and the minipowerdrill.
I also made holes to attach a vacumcleaner(the left hole) and for the cord to the minipowerdrill(the right hole). Both of these where also covered with rubbersheet that had crossshaped slits. In the upper right corner of the picture you can see the cable and switch for the lights.
And a pic just when I am about to start working.
And a in-action shot. Most of the routing is done and next step is to use a sanding drum.
So I hope this can be helpful or inspiring to you other Figureteers?
Cheers
Janne Nilsson
I have thought for a long time that it is a real hazzle to remove moldplugs on resin and metalfigures. Yet the only reasonable option is to use a minidrill with a router and then a sanding disc.
The resin chips becomes static and adheres to skin, clothes etc. The metal chips isnt static but sticks anyway overall and is sharp. Both chips is spread over the whole apartment causing the attention of SWMBO.
Not to mention the mess on the workdesk.
Heres an example of moldplug from a MIG bust.
Heres a picture of the stand I made afterwards as I found the height less than comfortable. Depending on where I choose to work.
The main structure where build up from MDF-board which I along with most of the material used in this project, just where laying around as they where leftovers from previous projects. Acrylic glas, rubbersheet, lampsockets etc where bought cheap here for about 3€ each and Im certain you guys can find such things even cheaper.
And this is the result.
The 2mm thick rubbersheet was attached with staples. Note that the staples has to be strong enough to penetrate the MDF-board and preferably a bit wider than normal as we dont want the rubber to eat through the staples. The rubbersheet had to be split in two to make it with just one sheet. But there where supposed to be slits for the hands there anyway as you see as an uneven cross.
The holes in the acrylic glas where drilled in stages. Starting small working my way up to the right diameter. Use really slow speed as the powerdrill otherwise melts the acrylic glas thus clogging the hole you just have drilled. I riveted the hinges to the acrylic glas with blind rivets. Only because I didnt have any screws and nuts of apropiate size at home. It worked on the testbit. It worked on first piece, but cracked the glas off the second piece?
The strip of wood act as an anti-glare device for the 2ea E14 25W lamps behind it.
And here it is with the previous mentioned lamps lit, and the minipowerdrill.
I also made holes to attach a vacumcleaner(the left hole) and for the cord to the minipowerdrill(the right hole). Both of these where also covered with rubbersheet that had crossshaped slits. In the upper right corner of the picture you can see the cable and switch for the lights.
And a pic just when I am about to start working.
And a in-action shot. Most of the routing is done and next step is to use a sanding drum.
So I hope this can be helpful or inspiring to you other Figureteers?
Cheers
Janne Nilsson
