Mr Metal Colours

[Ron Tamburrini]

Hi Guys
has anyone used the Mr Metal range of metallics and if so what was used to shade Iron

Ron

 

[housecarl]

I haven't, but I used burnt umber and a touch of black.
For that rusty look, raw sienna.
Carl.

 

[Andrew Craft]

I use them Ron. From memory I think I also have Dark Iron and use that to shade Iron.
And I have used black wash mixed with a tiny amount of blue also. I found it helps to try the shading before you polish the paint though, gives you a chance to correct it.

Andrew.

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

I use them Ron. From memory I think I also have Dark Iron and use that to shade Iron.
And I have used black wash mixed with a tiny amount of blue also. I found it helps to try the shading before you polish the paint though, gives you a chance to correct it.

Andrew.

Cheers Andrew
I have iron and stainless ,the shading before polishing sounds good advice I also take it you are using acrylics for this ,I had thought about mixing both together I don't want the metals and mail to look to bright .

Ron

 

[Einion]

I wouldn't suggest preshading is the best route, it'll just interfere with the polishing processes.

I'd definitely start with black for shading Ron and if you have oils they're good for this - just lay on a coat and then brush/wipe off the excess leaving a thin glaze on the surface. Acrylics can work poorly for this kind of thing, partly because hobby paints are so matt which doesn't really produce the right effect.

...I don't want the metals and mail to look to bright .

What subject are you doing Ron? Plate should generally be very bright and glossy, only cruder stuff like munition armour would tend to be dark at all.

If you do want darker shades of the Iron you might try toning it with black oil paint which should mimic how the darker colours are made in the factory - most darker silvers and gunmetal-type paints are simply a bright base with varying amounts of black added.

Einion

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

I wouldn't suggest preshading is the best route, it'll just interfere with the polishing processes.

I'd definitely start with black for shading Ron and if you have oils they're good for this - just lay on a coat and then brush/wipe off the excess leaving a thin glaze on the surface. Acrylics can work poorly for this kind of thing, partly because hobby paints are so matt which doesn't really produce the right effect.


What subject are you doing Ron? Plate should generally be very bright and glossy, only cruder stuff like munition armour would tend to be dark at all.

If you do want darker shades of the Iron you might try toning it with black oil paint which should mimic how the darker colours are made in the factory - most darker silvers and gunmetal-type paints are simply a bright base with varying amounts of black added.

Einion

HI Einon

I am about to start the after the battle bust ,so chain mail and low grade armour for the helmet .
So what you are suggesting is to apply oil over the top of the polished surface and rub off leaving on some residue.

I am an oil painter so anything acrylic tends to terrify me but these mr metal colours are very fine pigment so look like worth a try.
My usual method is humbrol metal coat spray varnished then oil washes and varnished again to marry the washes to a glaze
but the modern trend tends to be dull battered armour hence the experiment.

Your thoughts on this are most welcome.

Ron

 

[Andrew Craft]

Hi Ron I'd stick with Einion on this one, he's got more experience. Also I use acrylics and you prefer oils so go with what your comfortable with.
I've never tried mixing the metal colours if you do let me know how it goes.
Looking forward to seeing your progress, it was the first bust I ever did and was great fun to paint.

Andrew

 

[Einion]

I am about to start the after the battle bust ,so chain mail and low grade armour for the helmet .

I thought that was it but didn't want to assume. This could easily mean the helmet would be something of the order of munition armour, even to the point of being rough from the hammer if you wanted to add texture. It could even have an oxidised surface and not be metallic at all - blackened or russeted.

So what you are suggesting is to apply oil over the top of the polished surface and rub off leaving on some residue.

Yes. IME this will give the best results with any buffable paint.

but these mr metal colours are very fine pigment so look like worth a try.
My usual method is humbrol metal coat spray varnished then oil washes and varnished again to marry the washes to a glaze

Ah, since you have used Metalcote already I'll be very interested to see what you think of them in direct comparison to the Mr. Metals. Personally I was not particularly impressed and frankly, I've seen better results achieved with Metalcote.

Einion