Naps References covering PAINTING/MIXES & SCULPTING

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Nap

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Messages
42,024
Location
Beautiful Bampton, Devon
Hi everyone

To make things easier for me I have started this where I will put any info or just pics that found useful .......there will be a lot of flesh references !


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This from Roberto de Cima ...pics sequence painting female flesh
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Colours for flesh using Kimera

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Colours for NMM gold ( thanks Kurt )

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Nap
 
This is from the Spansh club Alabarda whose member threads on their projects are well worth looking at ...located in the "Miniature Clubs" part of PF

This is from Robert Ramirez

"As I always started with head painting, this time and starting from my usual base mix (Brown Sand + Roasted Red + English Uniform) continue to illuminate with Beige Red and this time finish the lights with Yellow Ice and Bone to produce in contrast to the darker shadows a very luminous face as well as contrasting"


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Mixes from 2 busts I am doing

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Nap
 
Great explanation on his guess mixes by PF member John van Pelt ..thank you

This is how i make my face pallet.

You see the 3 sample disposables.

I mix a medium tone a dark tone and a light tone. About 50% thinned.

On my wet pallet you easy get the 2 mid tones, that means you have 5 tones.

With one very light tone on the left side of my pallet with light skin and some ochre yellow glazes you have color 6.
On the right on the pallet you see some purple, deep red, track brown and english uniform.

These colors only come with the very dilluted glazes.

I dilute the glazes almost transparant. In some case to finish you need more than 20 glazes. Sometimes it is a stroke with your brush, if you want to highligt a line. If highlighted an area or a bigger spot it is better to stipple use your brush.

my mix for a basic skin tone is brown sand, beige red and basic skintone

Advantage of the sambal pots is that these 3 basic colors are consistent on a second or third pallet.
In the pot the colors are ready to use for weeks or even months, because they are dilluted and air tight closed.

Extreme highlights can be achieved with pure light skin tones but always highly dilluted.

Be aware in this case your brush is dry with just a tiny bit of paint on the tip.

This is to prevent the paint from running on your model.

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As a guy experimenting to make the switch from oils to acrylics I find this fascinating, confusing and awesome at the same time. Thanks for all this info
 
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