Questions about primers

[Chris Kelm]

Hello,
I'm here to find out about primers and which primers are best for which medium. Example: if you have 4 figures,metal,resin,kit plastic and soft plastic,which primer or primers would be best for those figures?
Also,what primer is the so called best on the market?
With these questions in mind which of them can be sprayed thru your airbrush?
If I've asked a very open question about primers,then I'm sorry but for some reason no matter how much prep I do on the figure itself,in time(3 weeks) tops the paint seems to chip or flake off.
Thank you
Chris

 

[housecarl]

I use brushable auto primer thinned with cellulose thinner.

 

[megroot]

These days I use automotive primer from a very cheap store in the city. It cost me € 1,45 for a spray can.
Before this I used Games Workshop white Primer, wich whas € 12,50 for a spray can.
I can only say the results are the same.
I use it for all kind of figures, resin, metal. With plastic and softplastic figures I cannot say how they hold because I don't use them.
Once I didn't wash the figure with a detergent/soap and also my paint chipped off. I think it is because of the loosing stuff they used the primer won't hold on the salt and sweat from you fingers.

Marc

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Hi Chris!..
I must admit I have seldom heard of paint flaking that quickly.. 3wks!! which leads to some questions. .. Such as, 1) what is the figure made from ? 2) Was it washed over, and dried with a detergent?! 3) What primer do you currently use? .. 4) How long was your primer left to cure before you over painted it? .. 5) What brands of paint are you using ?

Personally I use, Citadel,/Games Workshop,(Skull-White) which is then left for at least 24 hrs,.. before any base colour go on.

Regards,

Mark

 

[Chris Kelm]

ok mark,
First: the figures were from Tamiya and Imex. Second: I always wash them with a dish soap crease cutting. Third: Tamiya light gray. Forth: 12-24hrs and Fifth: Americana acrylic paints.
chris

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Hello Chris!,

Do you use a, Tamiya Primer,.. or.. Tamiya grey paint ??

 

[Helm]

Car primer for me on metal and resin
Steve

 

[Chris Kelm]

mark<
Tamiya gray primer

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Chris! ... it may well be the soap! .. Soap bars have a much stronger oil content in them, than liquid forms!.. and as you say grease cutting formula! I would suggest a much milder form like liquid detergent that's diluted. .. so that there will be no residual oily residue! left over on the piece! .. which would explain the flaking paint.

I am not familiar with the Americano Acrylic range, so I cant say anything about there qualities! as these might also be at 'Logger-Heads', with your primer!

Edit! .. However, reading your other post, on 'General figure talk',.. and the responses from Colin, (ChaosCossack). it would seem that the cheaper paints that you are using are inappropriate, for figure painting! ... that could well be the answer to your problem!..

Most of us on here, have built up an arsenal of paints and kit, over a period of time. so! gradually build up your paints! ... as it they can be expensive! .. but also look to your brushes as well!

Mark

 

[Chris Kelm]

I usually use dawn dish soap.

 

[Colin_Fraser]

I still use the expensive citadel/games workshop spray skull white as I like the tooth it gives for vallejos.

Colin

 

[ChaosCossack]

I'm with the Other Other Colin Citadel Skull white seems to be a good combo with Vallejo acrylics. Gives a solid foundation for painting and for me, the white base allows for crisp, bright colours. I've tried grey and even black primers and for me, mostly doing bright Napoleonic and 18th/19th century uniforms, the darker primers seem to take some of the character from the colour... especially reds and yellows etc.
As Mark stated it may not be the primer as much as the craft paint. You might just need to box those for something else.

As I said before, you may have to try a few of these different suggestions until you hit on the one or ones that work for you.

Luck

Colin

 

[Dave - LastCav]

I use Gunze 1200 primer and I have never washed a figure and never, ever had a problem.

 

[Chris Kelm]

Thanks guys your the best

 

[MarquisMini]

You will be surprised but i have try so many primers and someone recommended me automotive primer
so,i was very skeptical at first,once i tried on one of the figure that was it.
that primer is my standard and no matter if the figure is resin, mmetal or plastic, it adheres great and a very nice and smooth finish.
try it, here in the states is Brite Touch general purpose automotive primer.
You will not regret.
regards

 

[bagelman1952]

In my opinion the primer is not the issue. The problem is the paint you are using with absolutely no argument. This type of paint is totally unsuited to figure painting and you will never be able to blend or achieve any kind of realistic finish with them. Simple answer, bite the bullet and invest in some decent acrylic paint. I have a range of Valejo but have been leaning more and more towards Jo Sonja of late. These are intermixable with valejo, give a totally matt finish and are cheaper.

 

[theBaron]

I use Walmart's house brand automotive primer, for styrene, resin or metal. It comes in spray cans, so I don't use the airbrush to apply it.

I used to use dishwashing liquid to clean kit parts before assembling, a couple of drops mixed with warm water, but I've switched to using the de-greaser SuperClean. I've had no problems with primer adhering, or with finish layers adhering to the primer.

I'm thinking of trying Mr Surfacer as a primer, just to see, and in that case, I will apply it with the airbrush.

Hope that helps, prosit!
Brad