Riggin'...Online Booklet

[JohnReid]

Step 53

Foreyard Jeer Falls

Tie two 26" double blocks to the lower yard,one each side,outside the slings.Tie two lengths of 7 1/2" rope to the yard inboard of these two blocks between them and the sling and lead the leading ends down through the holes in the uprights of the aftermost fore bitt and tie off above the crossbar.
The upper block is suspended by a long 8 1/2" strap,lying close to the top.A cleat is nailed to each side of the masthead.The upper eye of the jeer block strap is suspended by seven 4 1/2" lashings from the cleat to the opposite side.The two lashings cross on the fore and after sides of the mast head.



Hack P70

Long P241

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

deleted by me

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

Step 54

Fore Yard Truss Pendants

Along with the knave line this is a bit of complicated arrangement.Each tie around the yard carries both a small loop and a long running end. These long ends are each led around behind the mast,through one loop of the knave line strop,through the loop of the opposite yard tie,and down towards the deck with a double block tied in the end.A single becket block is tied to the relevent deck eyebolt.The blocks are connected in a luff tackle and the fall is tied off to a cleat on the fore side of the mast.The trusses are of 8" rope,the blocks 11" and the connecting lanyard is 3" rope.

Hack P70

Long P240 fig 171.this is an excelent diagram of this arrangement.

 

[JohnReid]

Step 55

Fore Knave Line

The truss pendants have been run through the loop ends of a short strop behind the mast.Tie a length of 2" rope to the center of the strop,lead it through the 7" block attached to the rear center of the fore top.

Hack P 70

Long P241

 

[JohnReid]

Please note: It is around step 53 that the decision will have to be made as to how much rigging will be shown on the yards.Blocks for the bunts,leeches and clew lines are optional for harbor rig.I showed them on my model because I just like lots of rigging,I even put on the jewel blocks for the stunsail gear.Some of this could be put on later but I would recommend rigging the yards as completely as possible, now that they are easily accessible.



Step 56

The Slings

The lower end of the yard slings could also go on at this time.See page 240 figure 170 in Longridge,Hackney unfortunately shows the sling as one continuous rope which is incorrect.The sling is in two parts upper and lower with thimbles lashed together by a 3 1/2" laniard.

 

[JohnReid]

Step 57 (the slings cont...)

The upper part of the sling is made from 12" cable with an eye spliced in one end.It has a long leg and a short leg,the short leg has the spliced eye.T.It then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg.The long leg passes over the cap where is lies on a bolster and then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg and is seiezed there with three lashings.

Long P239 -40. Fig 170.

 

[JohnReid]

Step 58

Foreyard Tackle Pendant

There are two methods for rigging these pendants.The first a method as described by Hackney is to rig them to the shrouds and is correct for harbor rig.

Tie one 7" block at the outer quarter on each side of the yard.Tie another to the foremost shroud on each side just below the futtock stave.Tie a short length of 7" rope at the yardarm with a 13" double block in the end.This line should be long enough to allow the 13" block to lie bolow the 7" block at the yard arm when it is pulled towards the shrouds.

I however used Campbell's method as described by Longridge for this as I believe that it allows for a more stable yardarm.Yardarm stability is very important as even the slightest movement when attaching the braces on one side or the other can throw out of whack all the other ropes on the yard (bunts,leeches etc...as you can see in some of my pics.)
You could overcome some of this by not having the ropes too taunt to start off with but I haven't yet figured out how to make them look good and still look like they are carrying weight (slightly bent)

Longridges description of Campbell's method is on page 242 of his book and is used more for the modelers convenience than true harbor rig.
I will diagram both methods and you can chose between the two.

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

Step 59


Forward Tackle Inner Tricing Line

Tie a 7" single block to the foremost lower shroud.Make a small loop in one end of a 2 1/2" rope.Lead the other end down through the block and tie it (temporarily)leaving the loop end loose from the shroud block.

 

[JohnReid]

Step 60

Foreyard Tackle

Take a 13" block and form a becket at one end and a hook at the other,tie a length of 3 1/2" rope to the becket.Engage the hook into the loop in the hanging end of the inner tricing line.Reeve a 3 1/2 " rope in a luff tackle between the hooked block and the double block on the end of the tackle pendant.Lead the end of the thread back above the hooked block,down through the loop in the end of the tricing line alongside the hook and tie off.The lower end of of the inner tricing line can now be permanently fixed.

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

Confused ? me too!
Let me explain:

Ropes 59 & 61 both run down the shrouds.The ? at the end of the yardarm is to indicate that this is where the outer end of the tricing line attaches to the yardarm pendant so that it can be pulled up to the yardarm.
The other ? shows where the inner tricing line pulls the yard tackle up towards the yardarm into a stowed position.

 

[JohnReid]

Step 61

Foreyard Tackle Outer Tricing Line

Tie a length of 2" rope to the tackle pendant right above the block.Pass the free end up and through the yard quarter block,across and down through the uppermost shroud block and down the shroud rope.

 

[JohnReid]

 

[JohnReid]

Step 62 (This is so important that I gave it a step of its own)

Foretopsail yard

Decision time! will it be harbor,furled or sail rig? If sail rig, position this yard high on the mast,if furled or harbor rig is your preference then mount it low on the mast ,almost to the level of the caps.The same is true for the other masts as well.
Decision #2 how much rigging do I want to show on these yards? should I install it all now?(recommended)

Decision #3 see Longridge P247-48.Securely pinning or gluing down things down.On the real ship there is a lot of weight on the rigging to hold things in place,on a model the yards and the lines can work themselves lose to give your model a less than ship shape look. I know because it also happened to me.