Royal Horse Artillery Officer SBS

[Jim Patrick]

Ok, yes I have WAY too many projects going, most of which aren't finished. After returning from World Expo (actually, shortly befroe leaving) I decided I would do this figure from start to finish. I sort of don't want to re visit any figures I was working on before WE because I want a clearly defined point in my painting abilities. Sort of a B.E (Before Expo) and A.D. thing. In any case, I decided to paint Pegaso's 54mm metal RHA, Quartermaster figure #54-191. Once I started on the groundwork, I decided to do a SBS. Not that hard, you just have to make regular stops for photography. First up is the groundwork. Before placing the groundwork on, a suitable base was found (S&T) and the figure was cleaned up, primered and holes were drilled in the base to secure the figure. I also run tape around the base to keep oil, dirt and grease from my finger from ruining the near perfect finish on the base.

A quick note about the base. You really need to take a serious look at it and decide which side will be the front. I decided on the side with the least "character" on it. Not that there was a faulty side, I just liked the other 3 better. Once you choose a side for the front (since it will be completely or mostly covered with a nameplate), flip the base over and scribe an arrow pointing to the front. This will help you with remembering which side you chose. Especially important if you forget as much as me. I also place four rubber stops on the bottom corners. This serves two things. One, it helps lift the figure to give it a little seperation from the table (or whatever you have it displayed on) and two, it stops it completely from sliding around. I forget the name of the "stops" I use because I ran out and threw the bag away. I need to go to Hobby Lobby and get some more so when I have them, I'll post the name and pic.

Next I remove the figure and place toothpics in the holes so putty will not fill them up.

Then I place a liberal amount of Magic-Sculpt around the top of the base for the groundwork.

I then sprinkled on some gravel from some Railroad supply manufacture (not sure what it is, I got it years ago and it sits in a jar now). Then I take a wide flat brush, brush on some water and texture the groundwork with a stone (again, from a Railroad supply manufacture).

After setting up for about an hour, I removed the toothpics and placed the figure in the holes pushing it down gently. This helps the figure to sink in the ground rather than resting on top of it.

Next up, the groundwork completely cured with a few things added.

Jim Patrick

 

[Jim Patrick]

Ok, here's the figure primered with the groundwork. I made 4 cannon balls but I'm not too sure if theyr'e too big or not. Advice please . What do you think? After These are decided on, I'll begin with the grass and painting the groundwork.

Thanks,
Jim Patrick

 

[yeo_64]

Hey Jim,that's an AWESOME piece you got there !! Great SBS too ! I think the cannonballs look about just right;they could be howitzer ammo pieces if you still think they look too large. Looking forward to the next step,buddy ! Cheers !
Kenneth :lol:

 

[Kisifer]

Hey that's great stuff there Jim. I'm working on this figure right now and i just finished the face The pants are also done. I also made a cannon ball for the groundwork. That's great timing hehehehehe.

 

[Markus]

Hey Jim,

that looks pretty good.

I´m looking forward to see your next steps. Do you show the painting sbs too? That would be very nice.

Kind regards,
Markus

 

[Jim Patrick]

Yes Markus, I'll show the painting.....start to finish.

Thanks,
Jim Patrick

 

[Johan]

Jim, that's an interesting subject you're about to start painting. Looks a bit like a Quartermaster of RHA during the Waterloo campaign, good figure !

About the cannonbals - ... well ... they do seem a bit too big, perhaps you should check references again for their size ? Also, I believe most Napoleonic cannon ammo I have seen in ill. etc. does have a powder charge (I believe it's that ?) attached to it ...

I hope this helps, success with the figure,

Johan

 

[Jim Patrick]

Thanks Johan, that's the problem. I have ne references for British cannon balls or shells for that matter. Let me dig around on the internet and see waht I can come up with.

Thanks,
Jim Patrick

 

[bert]

Hello Jim

Nice work so far on the groundwork, I'm looking forward to the painting.

Concerning British artillery, I have a copy of Military Modeling with a good article on the British 9-pounder gun.
The article gives good information, especially that the bore of the gun is 4.2 inches, which can give an idea of the round shot size.

Hope it helps !

Best regards

Bertrand

 

[renarts]

12 pound cannon were the largest guns used for field artillery by the British. They had a bore diameter of aprox 4.50 inches

6 pounders had a bore diameter of aprox 3.50 inches.

There are differnt rounds used for different applications. Cannister is like a large shotgun shell. It is literaly a cannister of tin, earlier of canvas wrapped in cord) filled with musket balls and this is rammed in after the powder. There is a wooden plate to act as a support and form on the bottom. (hence sabot). Ball is just that. Iron balls that are loaded in after powder. Shells were used but these were a little dicey as they could premature fire if there was some defective fuse and could go off inside the bore or just past the muzzle. Grape shot was a navy thing and used larger balls (maybe 4 or 5) bundled together.

The powder is kept in small bags, and loaded in first. This way you can adjust the size of charge. It is pricked and a fuse inserted or in a pinch, powder can be used. The specific round is rammed in after this. The British were pretty adept at mixing their rounds and there are cases of combining ball with cannister.

 

[Guy]

Looking good so far Jim.......what scale is the figure, 54mm? And also who makes the figure? I re-read your postings and didn't see the size and mfg. Well sculpted figure too. Resin?

 

[bonehead]

Jim,

Before you go any further, here is an observation and some words of advice.

The pose of this figure is supposed to be the classic "contro-posto". That is, the figure is standing with most of his weight on HIS right leg. This can be best seen in the rear view of the figure. Notice how the right hip rises and the same shoulder drops a bit? This shifting of the figure's weight to the right leg causes this compression of the upper and lower torsos. It also shifts the right foot INWARD toward his center of balance.

Now, the problem: The way you have the figure mounted on the base, you do not have him properly balanced! The figure's right foot should be BENEATH the bulk of his body. That is, if you draw a straight, plumb vertical line from pit of his neck to the base, this line should end right in the vicinity of his right foot. This is because he is actually "balanced" on his right foot, with most of the mass of his body directly above that foot.

The way you have the figure mounted on the base, he is actually "listing" to one side! You can see this most obviously in the direct front view of the figure. He is, in fact, about ready to fall over onto his left buttcheek! I see this often with modelers who have not yet learned the tricky mechanics of this type of pose.

Here is the solution. The groundwork should be adjusted so that the left foot is higher than it presently is and the right foot is more closely aligned with his head. A simple test to see where the center of balance of the figure is, is to simply stand the figure on a flat surface and see if it will stand up without falling over. If it falls over, then your center of balance is off!

I hope this explanation is clear. This is easier to do than explain! Please drop me a line if it is not......!

Happy modeling!

Mike

 

[Jim Patrick]

Ok, the cannon balls were knocked off with the handy dandy small hammer (4 balls went flying around the room, 1 was found, the other 3 will have to be stepped on ). Thank you guys sooooo much for the info on British artillery. I went back and started digging through about 10 different books and found that, as suspected, I was way off. The actual shell should fit (for the most part) in the palm of the hand. Mine were struggling to fit in the palms of both hands! :lol: Oh well, you live and learn.

Mike, your post has me thinking more right now. First of all, THANK YOU! I think your'e right and it appears, at least how I have him posed, that it's wrong. I hadn't even looked at that. I'm now relooking at the whole figure and I think it might be sculpted that way. I'll e mail you some pics to see what you think.

Thanks again guys,
Jim Patrick

Guy, I modified my original post. Thanks

 

[Kisifer]

Guy this figure is from Pegaso and it's 54mm

I will agree with Mike. Here is my version of this figure. The pants are shadowed and they need extreme shadows and lights.

Front:

Back:

 

[renarts]

The actual shell should fit (for the most part) in the palm of the hand.

Jim,

Shells (the classic spy vs. spy "bomb")being hollow and having a fuse orafice, usually shot from howitzers and mortars are different than shot (cast iron balls), fired from cannon. Unless that is your intention.

Hate to be a nit picker on this one but you may as well use the right terminology Besides, I give this lecture as part of the historical interpretive program at Castillo de San Marcos National Monument as part of a British gun crew c. 1793

 

[megroot]

Hello Jim,

I have not more for advice's.you. But i think that Mike has the greatest advice. The figure stands out of balance.
As far as it goes now, it seems alright. It is an extremely well sculpted figure and in your hands he is coming out great.
Looking after my vacation how far you being.
Good luck,

Marc.

 

[bonehead]

Hello Jim,

The figure looks correct now. Good job! If you draw a straight line from the pit of his neck to the ground it comes out right next to his heel which is eaxactly how it should be with this pose.

Without holding the thing in my hands, it is hard to say if the pose is handled correctly. From what I see, the pose is handled very well indeed and the sculptor should be commended for a well done piece.

This is exactly the kind of figure I would recommend to any painter. It is a very nice basic figure with good detail and handling of the clothing. What more could a painter ask for?

Jim, the old email address you sent the message to no longer works so I cannot answer that way. Hopefully you will see this message!

Cheers!

Mike

 

[Jason W.]

Great observation Mike! Well done on the rebound, Jim. Looks like you'll have a blast painting him.

Jason

 

[Brad S]

Looking good Jim!

I'm glad you are fixing the pose. Anxious to see how you paint him. Kind of doing what you are doing. A B.E. and A.E. (before and after Expo) except I will finish the one figure I had in progress. After the show, I,m more eager to try even harder. Keep up the good work. I loved the Tuetonic knight at the show.

Brad Spelts

 

[Jim Patrick]

:lol: Here's the figure after fixing it. Trying some different image sizes so I can see how they look here on the screen. If it works out, I'll be doing the groundwork update next

Jim Patrick

Woops, I forgot. The shells (yes, I should use the correct terminology ) were done using some resin pieces I found. Isn't that the way it always is? After you make something from scratch, you find a simpler, better part in resin.