Sealing Fleshtones?

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Dad4

Active Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Messages
30
Hi Guys,

I've just completed the fleshtones on my first 3 figures using acrylics. As I stated before, I've been an oils guy for many years and am working on making the switch. They don't look too bad...for a first timer, but then comes my question. Before working on the uniforms and equipment do we seal the flesh areas with a matt varnish or clear varnish? I'm using Vallejo paints, which are super. Just need a little advice. Also, I took everyone's advice and invested in better brushes. WN Series 7 and these were probably the best investments I've made since getting an Iwata airbrush. Thanks

Brian
 
Up to you. I don't varnish until the whole figure is done, if at all. On larger scale figs and bust I often do varnish because I use inks and they dry glossier than bottle acrylics. I prefer a uniform finish. For smaller scale figs I generally don't varnish as the various finishes are less detectable to the eye. It has never occurred to me to seal only the face.

Colin
 
Why do you need to seal the acrylic paint? It shouldn't be necessary.

Not intended as a criticism by the way I'm just curious as it is not standard practice as far as I know.....although I am an Oil painter

Keith
 
The armour modellers use this type of sealing (future) but I never understand what they earn from it????

Cheers
 

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The armour modellers use this type of sealing (future) but I never understand what they earn from it????

Cheers
I do a bit of aircraft modelling. The high gloss varnishes like future are used before applying decals as they settle better over a very smooth surface - more gloss or matt varnishes can then be applied to protect the decals and achieve the desired final finish. Don't see much point for figure modelling unless they're being manhandled a lot (eg I do varnish my sons warhammer figs). I find it occasionally useful to use a Vallejo matt varnish to reduce the shine from certain acrylic colours if they haven't dried flat enough for my taste - but I generally take that to be a sign I haven't painted the figure as expertly in the first place rather than a step in the painting process.
Cheers
Mat
 
I do sometimes varnish my acrylic paint jobs, including faces, but only if a glossy sheen has developed. With some Vallejos this is hard to avoid, such as dark reds and white.
Problem with too much sheen is that it counteracts the painted (zenithal) lights and shades to give a very ugly effect from some viewing angles. I find the varnish to make transitions even smoother, which is a benefit.
I recommend a matte or slightly semi-gloss finish for faces. The Future that Pedro shows gives a high-gloss finish and I don't think it is suitable for figures.

Be careful with varnish. Best is to airbrush it, but even then it can develop the dreaded 'frosty' look which basically ruins all the prior work. So do practice on a test piece before doing anything!

Personally I don't like the Vallejo matte varnish; with me it dries semi-gloss and has a slightly white cast, which dulls the colours, but not the shine. A good matte varnish is MrHobby. It also doesn't "frost", so is less risky to use. For 'dead matte' I use a Spanish brand DIY varnish applied by airbrush.
If you lose some contrast, it is easy to correct with a few minor additional highlights and shades.

Up to you if you apply the varnish after painting each individual part of the figure or all in one go at the end. To hedge the risk of the frosty look you could do it in parts (masking previously finished parts); it is also easier to reach undercuts then, but that gives a lot of airbrushing hassle for a few mm^2 of paint... Risk against laziness trade-off ;-)

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I just thought I'd try to protect the faces as I paint the uniforms around them. If I needed to remove a spot or two from a mistake I could do it without harming the first coat. I'll go without the varnish and see how I do. As was mentioned earlier I used to use oils for the fleshtones and the Matt would take off any glossy look as well as protect it from any handling that I might do. We'll see...

Brian
 
The armour modellers use this type of sealing (future) but I never understand what they earn from it????

Cheers

Pedro,

The gloss coat is often used for:
- applying decals, like Mat already mentioned
- protecting the initial paint job from further washes
- getting a more life-like sheen. Further weathering will tone the gloss down.

I used to do tanks and planes...

On figures I use thinned Future for semi-gloss varnish on weapons. The stuff gives a nice sheen and dries very smooth.

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Hi Brian, I can see where you are coming from as unlike oils where you can get a brush and wipe off any over paint with Acrylics due to the fast drying once it is on, it stays on until you paint it out.

One trick I know some Acrylic painters use is to keep a wet brush in your mouth while you paint, if you are quick it is often possible to remove any misplaced paint.

Keith
 
Thanks Kieth...that's exactly what I was talking about. I'll try this as as begin to finish the figures. Hopefully I won't need it;). Thanks again to everyone who responded.

Brian
 
Since making the switch to acrylics I hit everything with Testors Dullcote when done (even the metallics). I like the flat look on the models. Then when dry I brush on different varnishes for different parts of the model.
ex. satin varnish on skin, 50%/50% satin/gloss for horses and gloss where needed.
 
I sometimes put a matt varnish on to protect the flesh from my sloppy uniform painting. Nothing worse than getting a spot of paint on a nicely painted fleshtone and ruining it. With the varnish on you can simply wipe the mistake off.
Gary
 
I'm an oil painter over acrylic basecoats and I've never varnished any of my figures or busts,the only time I'll ever use varnish is in the eyes on larger scale busts
 
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