Smoothing Cured Putty?

[Glen]

Hello everyone,

What's a good method for smoothing cured putty (specifically Aves)? I'm talking about fine scratches, stray tool marks, stray putty bits, etc - especially in areas where sanding sticks or paper can't get into. I always find this stuff when I think I'm done and I hold the piece up to the light for a final inspection.

Cheers,

Glen

 

[Jeff]

Steel wool might be a way it is more flexible then sand paper. It might be able to get in to those tight areas if you twist it in too different shapes. Your other option is to use a product like Mr Surfacer.

 

[Einion]

Scraping is a good method for any area you can get a knife blade to but steel wool would be my main recommendation, it's famous for being a conformable abrasive.

For the finest smoothing try to find 0000 grade, although it's the most difficult to find (and often more expensive to boot).

Einion

 

[FigureLover]

Manual rubbing or scraping is the only way once its hardened. As far as I know there is no chemical solution or the like that will help
Ben

 

[gordy]

Sandpaper is great, but pay close attention to the backing, 3M automotive backed paper works well for tight folding of the paper, where as the cheap stuff will crease leaving you a hard edge on the sand side.

Three things:

THE best steel wool replacement:Scotch-Brite 7448

Steel wool will leave little fibres all over the place and will rust your clothes washing machine.

The Ultra-fine grey is hands down the best, if anyone tells you Scotch-Brite is too rough they are using it wrong.


Fibre-glass Pen is great for those tight places, but use very catiously as a last resort since a fibre can get in your finger and hurt for days!


Last but not least: Pants! Clothing makes a great polisher.

 

[Einion]

...if anyone tells you Scotch-Brite is too rough they are using it wrong.

Using the wrong grade might be part of it though Gordy - the grey Scotch-Brite I have says "Replaces '00' steel wool".

I couldn't find the finest (white, 7445, equivalent to 0000) last time I was in the US unfortunately.

Thankfully I'm not short of this grade of steel wool but I wanted to directly compare them because I don't find Scotch-Brite and similar products to work quite the same as steel wool in a couple of ways, mainly to do with smooshing into recessed detail.

Steel wool will leave little fibres all over the place and will rust your clothes washing machine.

I've never noticed a problem myself but because of how messy the stuff is I do try to use it directly over the bin to minimise the fibres going all over the place - they're attracted to any steel tools that are the least bit magnetised, which is a pain to say the least.

Bronze wool is another option to avoid any rusting issues, if you can find a source. It's a specialised product though; I don't think I've ever seen it in a store, only in books and online.

Einion

 

[Glen]

Thanks everyone! I've been using a small curved knife blade and some sanding twigs (like sticks only thinner), but they still leave fine scratches. Just when I think they're all gone, I find more.

I didn't think of steel wool or ScotchBrite even though I use them in the garage to clean car parts (see avatar). Call it a middle-age moment. I figured there were no chemical solutions - anything strong enough to soften cured putty might be softening me as well! I have heard of people using denim and flannel to polish things; car model paint, canopies, etc. Might be good for a final smoothing.

I've tried the ScotchBrite at this point and it worked well. I cut up small squares and used the flat, the long edges, and corners in various spots. I'm pleased with the results. It's a lot less frustrating. I'll also try the fine grades of steel wool, but experience tells me to wear light gloves and do it outside over the trash can.

Cheers,

Glen