Trouble with 1/6 scale nude figures - getting arm and leg seams to go away

[asianfan]

For the life of me I cannot make them go away. I think I may be trying to fine tune the putty, putting on too little or something. I use CA, Testors and Tamiya putty.

These are resin figures. the arms usually attach at the shoulder, and the legs at mid thigh.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gra30]

I know from working with this type of plastic it is hard to blend and sand, do you mean the gaps at the joints. In the past I have given a quick spray with car primer first, halfords is good. It gives a tooth and also a very thin layer so when you sand you are blending putty to paint, not plastic. Once primed, fill and putty as normal, lightly sand and repeat as needed, spraying primer, sanding and filling.
The secret I found was to use the paint and putty to blend as said and not go down to the plastic which sands poorly.

 

[Mark S]

I recently bought a molding flash sander after I saw the link here that Jimmy S posted, and it works really well.
It may help you, and it's reasonably priced too.






You can get more info here...
https://www.facebook.com/HobbyElements?fref=ts

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Mark the only two putty's I use are Milliput standard, and Superfine white, which can be smoothed with water and a soft brush. I find there is less sanding to do afterwards. For that I use superfine emery paper.

Regards,

Mark

 

[Jim]

One technique that seems to work pretty well for me - and it's not original with me - is to scrape the edges of each side of the pieces to be joined. Obviously, they're pinned and I use five-minute epoxy to join them. Once the joint has set, you'll have a small (hopefully) depression where the outer portion of the parts don't come together. This is a good thing. I use either Magic Sculpt or Apoxie Sculpt epoxy putty (the choice is yours) and lay the mixed putty into this open seam. I use water and a finger, but a brush works as well to smooth the putty to the level of the rest of the figure. Once it's dry, after a quick soapy bath, rinse and dry to get rid of any mold release and/or oil and grime from my hands, I lightly spray a sandable light gray primer coat. If you've adequately smoothed the putty, you might get lucky and not have any seam at all. If one is there, lightly sand it with your favorite type of sanding material until the seam disappears. A light re-prime spray to check your work; hence the need for using sandable primer. Being the sort who over-engineers everything, even if I don't see a seam, I still go over the area (and the rest of the figure with some fine, and then extra fine steel (wire) wool to take care of any rough areas. For female kits, this is really essential as you want the skin areas as smooth as possible.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

[FigureLover]

All the above ideas work very well, Jims idea is great for the basic blending of the join, I use Aves Epoxy putty. Once that has set, I sand, and sand and sand, each time giving it a hit with auto spray putty between each sanding session. This helps hide the join, fills any imperfections and when wet sanded as a final coat before painting, comes up like glass. Don't use it too heavy around detail parts like the face though, as it will hide detail!!!!!!
Ben