W.I.P. Seil Models 54mm Viking Warrior (10th Century AD)

planetFigure

Help Support planetFigure:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

paulyrichard

A Fixture
Joined
Feb 20, 2007
Messages
602
Location
Electric Ladyland
I'm new to this forum, but have been postin' a lot on Planet Armor.
I've decided to quit 1/35 plastic for awhile, and gone back to buildin' and paintin' some heavy metal! This little number came in nine parts, and is an exquisite offerin' from Seil.
I'll be basecoatin' with Vallejo colours, and then shadin' and highlightin' with oils.

This doesn't actually come in at 54mm, it ends up measurin' in at 65mm, and with the base added, a total of 75mm.

Picture122-1.jpg


Picture123-1.jpg


Picture124-1.jpg
 
This is where I am with this at the moment. The whole figure was undercoated in automotive matt black paint. I'm not sure about other people, but I always undercoat my figures in black. I'll use a dark grey if a figure is to be painted in predominantly light colours.

The cloth padded armour under the chainmail had a thin coat of Vallejo Middlestone. It was then shaded with a mix of Burnt Umber/ Lamp Black and then highlighted with Yellow Naples Hue straight from the tube. An additional highlight was then added with a mix of Yellow Naples Hue and Titanium White.

Jus' let me know if i'm borin' ya' with my colour mixes. Hahaha

Picture125-1.jpg
 
Hi Paul

Looks really great so far. One questions, what have you done with the chainmail? Have you drybrushed it with silver or something like that after you have undercoated the figure??

Thanks

Ulrich
 
Thanks guys!

Ulrich, I jus' drybrushed on two successive shades of highlights, over the black base. The first coat was very dark.
The chainmail on this figure is so fine and in scale, its beautiful. Care needs to be taken in not cloggin' up the fine chain' with heavy coats of paint.

Thanks for lookin'.
 
Right on, Ulrich!

The wolf's pelt is finished now!

I used Vallejo Tan Yellow for the basecoat, and highlighted with a mix of Yellow Ochre and Yellow Naples Hue, for the third and final highlight coat, a small amount of titanium White was added. The shade coats consisted of a mix of Burnt Umber and Lamp Black, with a final coat of Lamp Black on its own, to deepen the colour in the recesses.

Picture128-1.jpg
 
The tunic colour was basecoated with a custom mix of Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue and Pastel Blue. It was then shaded with mixes of Payne's Grey and Cobalt Blue Hue. After this had dried, I painted in the trim usin' Vallejo Pale Sand. Highlights were then applied, and they consisted of mixes of Cobalt Blue Hue and Titanium White.

Picture129-1.jpg
 
Well done Paul! I also have this figure - part of Seil's two Viking set my wife got me for Xmas. I also use acrylics (Andrea/Vallejo), so I'm following your commentary closely.

I've also seen your post on Missing-Lynx. You may not get many responses, since their figure efforts are mainly geared toward 20th Cent soldiers and tank crewmen. It's not a slight, it's just that Vikings, Normans, and Hoplites ain't their thang...

Cheers,

Glen
 
Thanks guys!

Glen, I used to use the Missing Links forums for modellin' armour until I came across PlanetArmor awhile back. The Missing Links forum I can take or leave really. Cheers.

David, I always use a black undercoat, unless i'm paintin' a figure with predominantly light colours, for which i'll use a dark grey. The stuff I use for this black undercoat is automotive Matt Black spray, not primer. This automotive spray will etch itself into the metal and resists all handlin'. I've had my finger restin' on this guys head for as long as i've been paintin' it, and the paint has not worn off at all.
In some areas on the figure you can leave a thin line of black undercoat showin' and this helps when shadin' these areas. Cheers.
 
Well, i've been movin' along with this as you can see. The trousers were painted in thinned down Tamiya XF-65 Field Grey, shaded and highlighted. The oil colour hasn't fully dried yet and still has a slightly satin look to it, its always the way with oils. Some dry matt slower than others, i've found!

All these colours may look a little clean and pristine, but they'll be toned down with some weatherin' and pigments last thing.

Picture130-1.jpg
 
Back
Top