WiP Sculpt of NCO Zulu campaign.

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Thanks Richie, always the the champion. Mate I love making life hard for myself, so I really appreciate your help. I'll have a look at all the info, and funny that you mention it but I do have an old hole punch of mums, still use it for leather belts and shoes etc. The other thing I also found just today in the draw of one of the cupboards was a hip flask, that'll also come in handy but for a different reason ;)
Cheers mate,
Chris.
 
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Just some updates of the sculpt. Been doing alot of adding, some subtracting and more adding. Funny, never liked maths. Thought I'd add a little more of the reference material I'm using.
 
Very nice! Keep up the good work, Chris!

A suggestion*

To smooth putty before it dries, I use water - just like everybody else - as I'm working.

If rough patches or bumps remain, I use a liquid hair tonic available here in the US called Vitalis. It's been around since the 50s I believe, but still available from supermarkets. Vitalis is a suspension of a light cosmetic oil in alcohol with some inoffensive scent and other stuff. A little goes a long way. You could just as easily make your own oil and alcohol suspension. I've used olive oil and isopropanol. Before you apply them, shake up either Vitalis or your own home made product to keep the oil in suspension.

I put it on with a soft paint brush and you can smooth the surface without losing too much detail. Use it before you put on field equipment on the figure. Right after putting it on, put the figure next to a fan. The alcohol will all vaporize, but the oil will remain on the surface. Wash the figure with soap and water and remove the oil. Next I use foam cosmetic nail sanders and 0000 steel wool to smooth the roughest remaining areas and again wash the figure thoroughly. Don't use the steel wool or sanders anywhere near your work bench or you'll end up with bits sticking to your next application of putty. Not cute.

You will lose detail with all of these, so apply with caution.

Finally - Do you mind if I save your very nice reference photos to the Uniforms section?

All the best,
Dan

* If you know about these methods, apologies... Feel free to use or ignore or come up with a better way. If you find something better, let me everyone know. I'm always ready to learn!
 

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Hi Chris,
Nice to see you are still plugging away with this one. If you need any reference material or equipment measurements just let me know what you need, I'm sure I'll have it somewhere.
cheers
Richie
 
Dan Morton said:
Very nice! Keep up the good work, Chris!

A suggestion*

To smooth putty before it dries, I use water - just like everybody else - as I'm working.

If rough patches or bumps remain, I use a liquid hair tonic available here in the US called Vitalis. It's been around since the 50s I believe, but still available from supermarkets. Vitalis is a suspension of a light cosmetic oil in alcohol with some inoffensive scent and other stuff. A little goes a long way. You could just as easily make your own oil and alcohol suspension. I've used olive oil and isopropanol. Before you apply them, shake up either Vitalis or your own home made product to keep the oil in suspension.

I put it on with a soft paint brush and you can smooth the surface without losing too much detail. Use it before you put on field equipment on the figure. Right after putting it on, put the figure next to a fan. The alcohol will all vaporize, but the oil will remain on the surface. Wash the figure with soap and water and remove the oil. Next I use foam cosmetic nail sanders and 0000 steel wool to smooth the roughest remaining areas and again wash the figure thoroughly. Don't use the steel wool or sanders anywhere near your work bench or you'll end up with bits sticking to your next application of putty. Not cute.

You will lose detail with all of these, so apply with caution.

Finally - Do you mind if I save your very nice reference photos to the Uniforms section?

All the best,
Dan

* If you know about these methods, apologies... Feel free to use or ignore or come up with a better way. If you find something better, let me everyone know. I'm always ready to learn!
Click to expand...
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the tips, this guy is sitting out of the way in the cupboard, he'll definitely be pulled out again sooner or later, I've been tinkering with something else and getting a little more experienced in how to approach things. Thanks for looking and I'm happy for you to use any of the pics for reference :)
Regards
Chris.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
Richie said:
Hi Chris,
Nice to see you are still plugging away with this one. If you need any reference material or equipment measurements just let me know what you need, I'm sure I'll have it somewhere.
cheers
Richie
Click to expand...
Hi Richie,
Nice to hear from you, to be honest I haven't touched it for a while, reasons being mentioned on another thread I had started. I think it's been bumped up by having a new comment posted, but probably is good for me to maybe get a kick along. Hope you're doing ok and I still have your references. Would you know if anyone like Reedees does an assengai in 120mm?
Regards
Chris.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
Looking really good so far Chris. I envy your skill as I can't sculpt for toffee! One question though, is he going to be an officer or NCO? If he's an NCO he'd be wearing Other Ranks' 1871 pattern valise equipment - belt, braces, ammo pouches etc. All the reference pics you've posted show officers/officers' equipment. Except possibly the first chap - seated holding a cane, bit blurred so hard to tell but I think he's an officer too. The blokes behind him are all wearing ORs' kit.

Keep up the cracking sculpt!

Windy
 
Hi Windy,
That's a good question, I'm going to probably need to research the differences, thanks for pointing it out. Like I mentioned earlier, someone has posted a comment on this as I haven't touched this piece for months but maybe a higher power is trying to force my hand :eek:
And thats saying something coming from an athiest :D

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

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