BRAN
PlanetFigure Supporter
It's wonderful to realize a dream, I wish you the best for this project and maximum pleasure.
WIP 1/35 Scale D-Day Diorama
- Thread starter Merryweather
- Start date
Help Support planetFigure:
Hi Neil
Just a massive
....and a WOW!! ....what a amazing project really looking the business ...great pics ( should be up to 35 in each thread ....I asked Alan ( Tech ] to change it )
All the pics are showing with no issues for me
Following this really closely ,very clever research and modelling ...liking the worn look on the LC
Looking forward to seeing more
Have fun @ the bench
Nap
Just a massive
....and a WOW!! ....what a amazing project really looking the business ...great pics ( should be up to 35 in each thread ....I asked Alan ( Tech ] to change it )All the pics are showing with no issues for me
Following this really closely ,very clever research and modelling ...liking the worn look on the LC
Looking forward to seeing more
Have fun @ the bench
Nap
Merryweather
A Fixture
Bran, Nap and Nigel ,many thanks for your interest.
I know it is hugely ambitious, but you must remember I was a professional model-builder for architects before I retired so a big project is not exactly unknown territory for me- in fact at least with this the design won't change halfway through ,but still have to be finished for the same deadline!!!
And there will NOT be lights!
....hmmm
But anyway, after ten or more years of thinking about it, I have finally cut foamboard on this project. I’ve started at the bottom, naturally, with the hull and main deck, which I am going to clad in some way, as yet undecided. For the hull side there is a slight curve in the vertical plane so I need to create some identical ribs to attach my skin to (whatever it turns out to be). Having transferred the profile I pinned them all together with the ends and sanded them on the only bit of workshop kit I possess, which is a disc- and belt-sander.
Then I could go ahead and build the basic box.
It’s so bloody big I had to build it on the kitchen worktop, and it’s only the first level!
An that, my friends, is a jumbo tube of UHU, not the normal size. And then I had to get it back through the loft hatch….Oh dear what HAVE I done?
that's all for now folks
cheers
Neil
I know it is hugely ambitious, but you must remember I was a professional model-builder for architects before I retired so a big project is not exactly unknown territory for me- in fact at least with this the design won't change halfway through ,but still have to be finished for the same deadline!!!
And there will NOT be lights!
....hmmm
But anyway, after ten or more years of thinking about it, I have finally cut foamboard on this project. I’ve started at the bottom, naturally, with the hull and main deck, which I am going to clad in some way, as yet undecided. For the hull side there is a slight curve in the vertical plane so I need to create some identical ribs to attach my skin to (whatever it turns out to be). Having transferred the profile I pinned them all together with the ends and sanded them on the only bit of workshop kit I possess, which is a disc- and belt-sander.
Then I could go ahead and build the basic box.
It’s so bloody big I had to build it on the kitchen worktop, and it’s only the first level!
An that, my friends, is a jumbo tube of UHU, not the normal size. And then I had to get it back through the loft hatch….Oh dear what HAVE I done?
that's all for now folks
cheers
Neil
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
Bloody hell Neil that's a monster, going to look awesome though. The foam board is good stuff as it keeps the weight down, which if that is only the lower section is probably a good job.
More power to you mate.
Cheers Simon
More power to you mate.
Cheers Simon
Hi Neil
now that is a lot of board ......do you just glue or pin as well when putting it together?
As for getting into the loft .....get the razor saw out ....Mrs M will never noticed ...oh and resupply the UHU !
Looking forward to seeing more on this
Enjoy
Nap
now that is a lot of board ......do you just glue or pin as well when putting it together?
As for getting into the loft .....get the razor saw out ....Mrs M will never noticed ...oh and resupply the UHU !
Looking forward to seeing more on this
Enjoy
Nap
Merryweather
A Fixture
Yes I use T-pins if the finish is not important, they are very helpful.
If not I add the glue, make the joint then remove and replace the part several times in quick succession which makes the glue evaporate quicker, and in only a minute or so you can get a good bond. I like to Use Kappa foamboard if possible as the UHU doesn't attack the foam, but it still works even if it does. The solvent-free stuff takes too long to dry
Merryweather
A Fixture
Thanks very much Mike. You make a good point, and although I knew that, I was planning on the crew being US Coastguard; but RN would provide a bit more variety.
I shall explore further.
Cheers
Neil
Merryweather
A Fixture
I have clad the hull side with 1.5mm mount board as a substrate -I’m not wasting a pic on it - to which I will attach whatever cladding I decide upon. Experiments are being conducted as I type and will be reported upon completion.
I always intended to build the superstructure of the model from sheet material-foamboard, etc, so I have been studying my digital model to figure out the dimensions of the various structural elements, walls etc.
But I had a revelation.
I have two 3D printers; a small resin one, which I have used for all the detailed bits I’ve printed so far, and a large-format FDM printer (the type that extrudes a thin strand of molten plastic ) which I have used for the larger pieces like the funnel and gun tubs.
It occurred to me that I have already made the model ‘virtually’, and it would be the work of only a little while to divide the larger elements into printable pieces, so I have started with the main deck walls.
I had to add some detail of seam lines, and the porthole detail is too subtle for the big printer , so I will make them separately on the small one .
They will be inserted later and backed with 2mm clear acrylic, back-sprayed black - I am NOT doing the interior!
I made a recess in the side wall for the door
Here they are in a nice grey filament- I had to split the longest wall to fit on the printer.
The downside of using the FDM printer is that the surface finish is not at all flat-even when you print a piece flat on the build-plate.
Annoyingly this texture has to be sanded off, and that takes mark one elbow grease !
I do have an electric sander but the problem is that the melting point of the plastic filament is so low that it just wrecks the piece. So I started with P60 grit (which is practically cobble stones...!) and even that causes melting and has to be rested every now and then. I worked my way up through the grades to P320, wet, which will give me a good enough finish for primer. So you see there is no advantage adding any detail with this printer.
Well, I think that's all for now folks.
Thanks for watching
Cheers
Neil
I always intended to build the superstructure of the model from sheet material-foamboard, etc, so I have been studying my digital model to figure out the dimensions of the various structural elements, walls etc.
But I had a revelation.
I have two 3D printers; a small resin one, which I have used for all the detailed bits I’ve printed so far, and a large-format FDM printer (the type that extrudes a thin strand of molten plastic ) which I have used for the larger pieces like the funnel and gun tubs.
It occurred to me that I have already made the model ‘virtually’, and it would be the work of only a little while to divide the larger elements into printable pieces, so I have started with the main deck walls.
I had to add some detail of seam lines, and the porthole detail is too subtle for the big printer , so I will make them separately on the small one .
They will be inserted later and backed with 2mm clear acrylic, back-sprayed black - I am NOT doing the interior!
I made a recess in the side wall for the door
Here they are in a nice grey filament- I had to split the longest wall to fit on the printer.
The downside of using the FDM printer is that the surface finish is not at all flat-even when you print a piece flat on the build-plate.
Annoyingly this texture has to be sanded off, and that takes mark one elbow grease !
I do have an electric sander but the problem is that the melting point of the plastic filament is so low that it just wrecks the piece. So I started with P60 grit (which is practically cobble stones...!) and even that causes melting and has to be rested every now and then. I worked my way up through the grades to P320, wet, which will give me a good enough finish for primer. So you see there is no advantage adding any detail with this printer.
Well, I think that's all for now folks.
Thanks for watching
Cheers
Neil
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
Wonderful way to go with this build, embrace the technology, (says the man who still hasn't fully unpacked his 3 year old 3D printer).
As for the surface texture, why not coat it with Perfect Plastic Putty or similar and then sand it, it would save lots of elbow grease!
It really is nice stuff; https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/perfect-plastic-putty
It dries fairly quickly as well.
Watching with great interest.
Cheers Simon
As for the surface texture, why not coat it with Perfect Plastic Putty or similar and then sand it, it would save lots of elbow grease!
It really is nice stuff; https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/perfect-plastic-putty
It dries fairly quickly as well.
Watching with great interest.
Cheers Simon
Landrotten Highlander
A Fixture
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2017
- Messages
- 839
Great work,
one mention - maybe useful for the next project - but since your walls are all 'flat' it should be possible to fille the troughs between the individual layers with some sort of putty or paint (in Large Scale Planes small lines are often filled with Mr Color 1000 primer when not too deep).
Should at least limit the amount of elbow grease you put in sanding....
one mention - maybe useful for the next project - but since your walls are all 'flat' it should be possible to fille the troughs between the individual layers with some sort of putty or paint (in Large Scale Planes small lines are often filled with Mr Color 1000 primer when not too deep).
Should at least limit the amount of elbow grease you put in sanding....
Last edited:
clubcat
PlanetFigure Supporter
Maybe plastic card would have been a less time consuming option, considering the plain nature of the bulkheads.
For all the advantages of 3D printing I sometime feel that scratchbuilding is quicker than the time taken in post processing.
Melanie
For all the advantages of 3D printing I sometime feel that scratchbuilding is quicker than the time taken in post processing.
Melanie
Merryweather
A Fixture
You're not wrong ,Melanie, but I didn't have any plastic card and this method required less of my time and brain power,(as opposed to elbow grease). As I had already done all the maths and working out, I could set it off printing while I did other things, and know that it would fit.
Kind of a 'Lazy Man's Load' if you will
