aging wood

[godfather]

I have painted an axe handle (reddish brown) for a knight (120mm) I would like to give it some aging/wear suggestions for colors techniques?realted topic Wood tends to go almost grey when aged any suggestions for replicating that finish. thanks.

 

[KeithP]

You know... that is a really good question... especially about the greying of the wood.

I think you work in oils... So, for an axe handle you can add consective washes of raw or burnt umber to the reddish brown base. Concentrate on where the handle is likely to be gripped as well as near the head.

As far as the graying wood goes... my thought would be to mix in some flesh, raw umber and ivory black. You can vary the tone. This should give you a pretty nice warm gray to work with...

Let me know what works for you. It's an interesting challenge!

Keith

 

[renarts]

godfather,

wood greys because it is being sun bleached, moisture is drawn out of the wood and the resultant oxidation. All wood will turn grey as ultraviolet radiation causes cellular damage on the surface of wood. If these damaged wood cells are not removed they become a food source for micro-fungi. As the fungal growth progresses, the wood becomes darker and eventually begins to rot.


For a weapon that is in use either as a weapon or tool, I would think that any paint or coloration would wear to the blonde color of the wood. (Ash, oak or some other hardwood being used for the haft.) Any subsequent oiling of the wood either by application of oils or from handling would no doubt make it dirty, grimy but I don't think that wood would grey as if it were left to the elements. Usually by the time it starts to grey, it has become too brittle and no longer useful as a weapon or tool.

In my opinion, I'd keep it the reddish brown and maybe make "blonde" streaks or wear patterns where the hands would cause any finishes (applied or natural) to be worn off.

Mike

 

[Einion]

My general preference for wooden hafts now is a pale wood colour (aiming for something like ash) painting in a very faint grain pattern before adding grime buildup with dirty greys where it would naturally be handled.

At smaller scales I add dents/scratches with highlight & shadow lines applied in the appropriate direction (keeping the lighting in mind at the angle the weapon is held in the finished figure). For larger scales I will usually make actual marks in the metal or resin by filing or cutting, then highlight and shade them.

Einion