WIP Attack on La Haye Sainte at Waterloo in 28mm

[Waterlooman]

Sounds like a lot of work, but good luck if you proceed.

Cheers Simon

Deffo worth it though to get the correct shade and finish.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

Thought I would post this as I like the facial expressions on them, they are my few 3d printed ones I brought of ebay, they have since been matt varnished.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

Excellent detail on such a small scale.

Malc

Thank you again.

W.

 

[Nap]

Hi W

Good to see you posting these 3D have a a lot of character , nice painting as well

Ok forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[Briggsy]

Great little fellows, so much character in the faces on such a small scale, really impressive.

Cheers Simon

 

[Waterlooman]

Hi W

Good to see you posting these 3D have a a lot of character , nice painting as well

Ok forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap

Thank you Nap.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

Great little fellows, so much character in the faces on such a small scale, really impressive.

Cheers Simon

Thank you kindly Simon.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

Hello all, I tried my new trick to get a darker flatter shade of Blue by mixing a majority of matt Black with Matt Blue, I achieved the shade I wanted but it dried a semi satin shade, so although the shade is good - and I will re paint the obvious areas on the other 80 or so French figures, I will need to re matt varnish them when my Ammo Lucky Ultra Matt arrives in the post.

A good lesson for any future figures to be built - I will try using the Ultra Matt varnish as a primer as it may take the paint layers better as it should dry with a slight texture and not the slight silky finish of may Vallejo surface primer.

W.

 

[Briggsy]

A lot of work but will be worth the effort.

Cheers Simon

 

[Merryweather]

this is going to be the DBs when it's done!

 

[NigelR]

Hello all, I tried my new trick to get a darker flatter shade of Blue by mixing a majority of matt Black with Matt Blue, I achieved the shade I wanted but it dried a semi satin shade, so although the shade is good - and I will re paint the obvious areas on the other 80 or so French figures, I will need to re matt varnish them when my Ammo Lucky Ultra Matt arrives in the post.

A good lesson for any future figures to be built - I will try using the Ultra Matt varnish as a primer as it may take the paint layers better as it should dry with a slight texture and not the slight silky finish of may Vallejo surface primer.

I think you made the right decision to go with a darker blue despite all the added work. I hear you about the primer as well, a good matt primer is helpful for figure painting.

 

[Waterlooman]

A lot of work but will be worth the effort.

Cheers Simon

Thank you Simon.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

this is going to be the DBs when it's done!

Thank you kindly mate.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

I think you made the right decision to go with a darker blue despite all the added work. I hear you about the primer as well, a good matt primer is helpful for figure painting.

For some reason the vallejo surface primer seems to leave a shiny finish - that cant be a good surface to grab the paint layers.

W.

 

[theBaron]

For some reason the vallejo surface primer seems to leave a shiny finish - that cant be a good surface to grab the paint layers.

W.

Vallejo Model Color's Prussian Blue does, too, even though it's part of their matte colors. Makes me think there's something in the chemistry of the pigment and how it reacts in the carrier.
Prost!
Brad

 

[Steve Ski]

This always amazes me how you can create such incredibly detailed work on these tiny lil guys, impressive! Excellent facial work!

 

[Waterlooman]

This always amazes me how you can create such incredibly detailed work on these tiny lil guys, impressive! Excellent facial work!

Thank you kindly Steve, its a steady hand - good magnification and good light.

W.

 

[Waterlooman]

Vallejo Model Color's Prussian Blue does, too, even though it's part of their matte colors. Makes me think there's something in the chemistry of the pigment and how it reacts in the carrier.
Prost!
Brad

I wonder if model colour and model air are just the same - needing an airbrush for the best flat results.

W.

 

[theBaron]

I wonder if model colour and model air are just the same - needing an airbrush for the best flat results.

W.

I don't think so, but I have no info to back it up. As far as I know Model Air is formulated for airbrushing. That is, I think Model Air has additional ingredients to optimize performance when aerosolized through airbrushing. Though of course, it can be hand-brushed, and Model Color can be airbrushed. I've read enough posts on the scale modeling forums from modelers who have. Many also note getting the best results with Model Air, if they use the other Model Air products with the paint-thinner, leveler, etc. I concede, though, that I can't speak from direct experience of airbrushing Model Air, because I don't use it. The comment about using the other Model Air products when airbrushing Model Air is similar to my experience airbrushing Tamiya acrylics, though. i get my best results with Tamiya's acrylic paint, when I use Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner. Though there is an exception-I find it airbrushes well with generic lacquer thinner, too.

Wow, that came spilling out!

Prost!
Brad

 

[NigelR]

I use both Model Air and Model Color and they are very different in consistency. Model Air is much thinner and does not cover well when brush painted. However, Model Air does dry flat when airbrushed. I do not know if there are specific additives that cause this compared to Model Color. I think the pigment is heavier in Model Color which makes it challenging to airbrush, even when thinned.

I wouldn't use Model Air for figure painting with a brush, and best of luck painting 28mm figures with an airbrush! It can also be troublesome to airbrush, it has to be thinned just right. I prefer the MIG Ammo paints for airbrushing myself.