Dremel?

[zarching]

For some time I've known I had to upgrade to a small, Dremel-like tool.

I'm getting too old to cut and file metal figures by hand. Plus, I need to find an easier way to drill holes (especially into shoulders) to accept wire I use to fashion arms, legs and digits.

The internet has been less than satisfactory in suggesting a cheap, good tool. All I've come away with is warnings about this or that tool... or how bad cordless tools are...or how bulky and uncontrollable the bigger ones (with cords) are. Or, how the newer models are incompatible with earlier ones.

Nobody, it seems, has a simple, but firm opinion about the best tool.

What I need:

1. Something for filing and sanding (including intricate work...so the tool cannot be too powerful or fast to the point you lose fine control.

2. Drilling fine holes in metal figures... to accept wire armatures, or to hollow out necks and wrists.

Does anyone have a winner?

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Gerard, Dremmel have always had a good reputation and I use their 'Engraver'. It is different to the normal style in that it has a 'pistol' grip that is more comfortable to hold. Speed is finely variable , and it has a good range of collets or you can buy a variable one to avoid changing it to take different tool flanges etc. It is cordless but comes with a charging stand and lithium ion battery which lasts a LONG time. Look it up, I think you will like it. Regards, Ron

 

[megroot]

Gerard,
I have a Proxon because it was a offer at a nearby shop.
Dremel is also good.
Mine is wired from the trafo to the drill. And a wire from the trafo to the 230 V net.
Be sure you have a variabe rpm. At the lowest speed the drill won't stuck into the metal.

 

[Einion]

Hi Gerard, I'm firmly of the opinion that a motor tool is a must-have piece of kit in the long run, especially for grinding off large amounts of material - white metal as well as resin or putty - which is just way too much work to do by hand (assuming you can even do quite the same thing using hand tools).

But, I would recommend you still do most mould-line removal by hand for the control it offers. That said, if you want to try using a motor tool for this the two best bits for the job IMO are polishing pins* and silicone-rubber abrasive tips (you'll see the type of thing above my drill here).

In terms of what drill to get, there are lots of viable alternatives and personally I would go corded all the way. A flex shaft and a foot pedal (especially one which offers speed control) are the gold standard and by luck I came across "the better rotary tool", 93240 Flex Shank Grinder, at only $69.50** on Sciplus.com just the other day, see here. In case that seems pricey, the professional models can go for $500 and up.

*The 3mm set on Rio Grande is about the best value I've seen.

**Similar item on Grizzly.com for $64.95 with a speed range of 0 to 15,000 RPM.

Einion

 

[zarching]

Thanks, guys:

I'll look at what you recommended.

Ron, what's the Model number on your Dremel engraver?

 

[PhilinYuma]

Yeah, I've used a motor tool for over forty years, I've always bought Dremel and it has paid off; I still have my first old non-variable speed drill, which I keep as a reserve. When it stopped working, I checked the brushes and replaced them anyway, though they still looked good. All the old clunker really needed was a little machine oil and off she went again. As regards things not to do with any motor tool is drilling holes in metal for pinning. I still use a pin vice for that, though others may have had success with a power tool.

 

[tonydawe]

I find a pin vice is ideal for drilling small holes, particularly for armature wires. I don't have anything against power tools for this, but there is less chance of making a mistake with the pin vice, as it is hand powered. I have destroyed a few figures over the years with over-ethusiastic dremel use.

 

[montythefirst]

dremel all the way its a must have

http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/300_Series___55_Accessories_and_Case.html

but here is a tip dremel attachments are pretty expensive however, rotacraft attachments will fit your dremel at a fraction of the cost

http://www.rotacraft.co.uk/

this retails at £21.35

for the dremel you are looking £35 +

hope this helps

simon

 

[Gary D]

Hi Gerard. I also have the pistol grip Dremel with the charging stand and lithium Iom battery and wouldn't do without it. It's called the Dremel Stylus. Model 1100. 5000 to 25000 RPM. I got mine at Home Depot. Around $80 if I remember right. I also would suggest the universal chuck as you won't need to change collets anymore.

Good Luck!

Gary Daugherty

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Gerard, Gary beat me to it. Good luck with your quest tho and hope you find something that suits your needs. Cheers

 

[zarching]

Gentlemen

Your kind responses and opinions are greatly appreciated.

A Dremel and a pin vice are definitely on my Christmas wish list! So...it's now in the hands of the Lord .... ie. my wife. LOL

Have to admit though... I'm going to miss using my accumulated collection of rasps and files....AND that pair of garden shears I've been using for past 30 years.

All the best,

Gerard

 

[megroot]

here is the site of proxxon": http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/home.asp

Marc

 

[theBaron]

I use a Dremel, too, and their customer service is excellent. The on/off switch on my old model had worn out, after about 20 years of use. I sent it to them for repair--still covered, after all that time. But my model had since been replaced by a newer version, and so, they sent me a brand new model, no charge. I only paid to ship my old one to them at the beginning.

It seems to me the choice really depends on where you are. In Europe, Proxxon is probably more accessible, but I could be wrong.

Here in the US, Sears Craftsman tool line also includes a rotary tool which is pretty much as good as the Dremel rotary tool, but I don't know if their service is the same. Craftsman used to offer an automatic replacement policy for any of their tools, but I think they've restricted that now to non-power hand tools, like wrenches or screwdrivers.

One lesson I've learned with the rotary tool, though, is that it doesn't necessarily replace using a hand tool to do the same job, for example, using a cutting wheel instead of a hand (razor) saw to remove something. In switching to the power tool, you must reckon with the power, and realize that if you're not care, you can do a little more damage, than if you used a non-powered hand tool and made one too many passes with the saw, or file. But that's true of any power tool versus hand tool, I suppose.

Prost!
Brad