Finnish for masters.

[Uruk-Hai]

Hello Figureteers!

Im just wondering about finnish on masters when to make mold for resin casting.
What is preferred for the finnish, gloss, satin, matt or dead matt?

This as I prime the masters and noticed that the finnish is replicated on the castings. I believe that matt or satin would be best for paint to bound to, even if gloss or dead matt would be better suited for other subjects depending on the material they are supposed to be?

Or are there any other factors to beware of? I would like you input and experience.

Cheers
Janne Nilsson

 

[bonehead]

Hello Figureteers!

Im just wondering about finnish on masters when to make mold for resin casting.
What is preferred for the finnish, gloss, satin, matt or dead matt?

This as I prime the masters and noticed that the finnish is replicated on the castings. I believe that matt or satin would be best for paint to bound to, even if gloss or dead matt would be better suited for other subjects depending on the material they are supposed to be?

Or are there any other factors to beware of? I would like you input and experience.

Cheers
Janne Nilsson

Hello Janne!

As a sculptor, I do not worry much about the surface finish of my masters. Of course, I do work to make the surface of my sculpts well finished and even. Many ask how i get my sculpts so smooth, but there are no tricks. I just use my usual sculpting tools and an occasional swipe of a moist finger for smoothing. That's it. I do not use paint brushes for my sculpting at all.

However, you can carefully cultivate a smooth or slightly textured surface and the whole thing can be obliterated by the use of mold release spray in the mold. This will end up with a slick finish which may actually inhibit the application of paint.

I only apply subtle textures to some surfaces when the texture of the real thing seems to require it. Examples would be smooth surfaces on an early war (WWII) German helmet (they often had glossy or satin finish) or the felt cover on a canteen. In my experience, worrying about textures other than examples such as these is mostly a waste of effort as the finish is pretty well eliminated with the application of paint......

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Thanks for sharing, Mike!

The reason is that I started doing some cast of vinyl tires for autos. But before making the mold I sealed the rim, tire and carrier with a thin layer of Future floor wax. The casts came out very shiny. Actually I wonder if that would affect paint adhision in a negative way. Others I have sprayed with primer such as Valljeo which has given me a slightly matt finnish.

Cheers
Janne Nilssn

 

[Gra30]

Hi Janne,
I know Mike has many more years of experience on here as do many others but just my experience.

I do try to get my masters very neat and tidily sprued, dust free and clean etc.
I then give a very fine spray of primer, very very fine and shook well and built in 1-2 quick coats.
This then gives a nice matt finish to the casting.
Of course, it is not essential, my David grieve masters are still metal and unprimed, but this does make the casting slightly shiny as the surface shine is replicated. This was something I was taught and learnt at the start, the moulds replicates the masters finish.
To the eye it makes it a little harder to see the detail compared to a matt finish I think, under a coat of paint it is exactly the same.
Of course, I am referring to how the piece is manufactured after being sculpted by the sculptor and sent for manufacture and the above is only my take
Best wishes

 

[Gra30]

You could spray a coat of primer on your tyres now, on top of the clear, this will give you matt casts.
Let it dry 24hrs before casting or it may stick to your mould. It won't stick firm but you want to avoid paint in the mould. 24 hrs is usually perfectly fine.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Thanks for the tips!

I remeber also the Cromwell figures that where cast in a shiny finnish. Once primed you noticed the great detail on them.

Cheers
Janne Nilsson