Following the thread - Sculpt a Confederate Medic
- Thread starter Kevin D.
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Thanks Tor,
I'm not so sure that it is not a bit too big. I did not bake the face so that I can make some changes after whichever comments come my way.
We both could probably narrow our nose somewhat but I think yours looks like what I would expect to see with the nose guard in place (front view of your completed piece).
Thanks,
Kevin D.
I'm not so sure that it is not a bit too big. I did not bake the face so that I can make some changes after whichever comments come my way.
We both could probably narrow our nose somewhat but I think yours looks like what I would expect to see with the nose guard in place (front view of your completed piece).
Thanks,
Kevin D.
hi kevin
A tip that some of the readers may find useful for sculpting a head from stratch
is
1. to draw to scale on tracing paper two profiles of head in front and side elevations
2.Then carfully cut these patterns out and glue these to plastic card
3. I then take the side profile and cut in two ( less the thickness of plastic card).to form separate profiles of front & back of head in side profile.
4. then using the front elevation profile as base fix the front part of the side profile
with milliput/a&b putty ensuring it is correctly centred and perpendicular to the base profile set aside to dry (Dont try filling out head until profiles are solid).
5.repeat process for back half.
6.begin filling out of head using profiles as guide and datum points
this approach will help to ensure that head progress in a balanced way
once the basic shape is compleat the edges which should be visable can be filed bac and the filled with putty
you could then go on to locate datum points such as the bottom of ear lobe
by drilling then cast off a master head for future use
hope this is clear
cheers ken
A tip that some of the readers may find useful for sculpting a head from stratch
is
1. to draw to scale on tracing paper two profiles of head in front and side elevations
2.Then carfully cut these patterns out and glue these to plastic card
3. I then take the side profile and cut in two ( less the thickness of plastic card).to form separate profiles of front & back of head in side profile.
4. then using the front elevation profile as base fix the front part of the side profile
with milliput/a&b putty ensuring it is correctly centred and perpendicular to the base profile set aside to dry (Dont try filling out head until profiles are solid).
5.repeat process for back half.
6.begin filling out of head using profiles as guide and datum points
this approach will help to ensure that head progress in a balanced way
once the basic shape is compleat the edges which should be visable can be filed bac and the filled with putty
you could then go on to locate datum points such as the bottom of ear lobe
by drilling then cast off a master head for future use
hope this is clear
cheers ken
garyjd
PlanetFigure Supporter
Kevin, I think the head looks okay,but there are a few things that could probably improve it markedly. The most important thing are the eyes. I would make them smaller. You may also want to remove a little material from the nose as it looks a little big. This could be done afterbaking or before. Keep at it. 
~Gary
~GaryKen,
Good afternoon! Very interesting, in several ways! I have seen this technique with a couple of variations in two of the sculpting books that I have in my library.
I had a hard time putting the head armature together and went on to other ideas. The funny thing is, I followed the book and tried to use two thin pieces of balsa wood with a cut 1/2 way through each axis silhouette outline so that they fit together (one cut in center from bottom up and one cut from top to bottom so that they slide into the slots and create the armature). Cutting the balsa to an accurate shape was a pain and it invariably split when I tried to put it together…
I like your idea because one can copy the 120mm (or whatever scale you are using) front and side view from a scale sheet for humans, glue it to the plastic card, easily cut it out and then follow procedures as you outlined.
I have also been thinking about casting whatever I make for ease of scale in future pieces but my thought has been to follow Gary’s first steps (that turned into a nice skull for me this last time around) then place orbits and the stiff nose armature on the skull and cast it.
An excellent example of your concept can be found in Sculpting in Clay with Dale Power although he works in a much larger scale where the technique seems easier to manipulate.
Your post has given me some ideas, thanks!!
Best,
Kevin D.
Gary,Originally posted by garyjd@Mar 3 2006, 05:37 PM
...but there are a few things that could probably improve it markedly. The most important thing are the eyes. I would make them smaller. You may also want to remove a little material from the nose as it looks a little big.
Keep at it.
Thanks! I see your point clearly. I took my eye off of my reference and the difference is obvious now. (see attached)
Question:
What tools do you use in getting facial detail?
Best,
Kevin D.
garyjd
PlanetFigure Supporter
Kevin, I have a few dental tools that I use One just comes to a point. The other has two different spatula ends. I also use an X-acto knife that is good for cutting out Sculpey for roughing in folds.~Gary
Well,
I was somewhat disappointed with the results thus far. A lot of time and a pics to end up far from my goal. So, I took a step back, looked at some past instructions on heads and combined it with Gary's techniques and started a new head. No pics of how I got here, but.... here's where I am now (see below). I think it has more promise and comments are welcome.
Gary, I received the diluent and Sculp III today. Thanks very much, that was nice of you!
Kevin
Below is 2nd attempt left quarter view.
I was somewhat disappointed with the results thus far. A lot of time and a pics to end up far from my goal. So, I took a step back, looked at some past instructions on heads and combined it with Gary's techniques and started a new head. No pics of how I got here, but.... here's where I am now (see below). I think it has more promise and comments are welcome.
Gary, I received the diluent and Sculp III today. Thanks very much, that was nice of you!
Kevin
Below is 2nd attempt left quarter view.
The hole on each side of the head is not the ear hole. It is just a mark that I used in measuring the approximate bottom of the ear and hence, the deliniation of the bottom of the nose.
I think adding the folds of skin from the nose into the cheek area and the mouth and cheeks will start to bring him alive after I clean up on any suggestions received.
I did start this head from scratch on a small ball of baked sculpey on a toothpick as was how the 1st head was started.
I think adding the folds of skin from the nose into the cheek area and the mouth and cheeks will start to bring him alive after I clean up on any suggestions received.
I did start this head from scratch on a small ball of baked sculpey on a toothpick as was how the 1st head was started.
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