HMS Victory Diorama-My Way

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Victory18.jpg
 
Hi guys! Me again.
I don't remember having any major problems with getting the basic hull put together.I doubleplanked it using basswood and then walnut strips.It seems to me that after practising on the Santa Maria and the Bounty I was ready for Victory.One interesting thing I did that you may be interested in ,is after putting on the basswood strips up to the waterline I took some fiberglass material and lined the inside of the hull ,and then covered it with about a 1/4 inch of epoxy glue.
This made for a very solid structure as well as a good base for the copper nails to come later.Parts of the rest of the interior of the hull was also epoxied to provide for the bamboo trunnels.It has been about 30 years now and nothing has moved.to be cont........
 
Hi guys! Please note : a lot of the photos of Victory that I will be posting here have never been published before.I hope that you guys enjoy them as they will probably be the last ones.The ship has been in her case since I finished it in 2000.
The last time that I took the top off, to clean a few spots on the inside of the case, I accidently broke off the flying jib boom and I don't want a repeat of that experience.Up until now nothing has moved or fallen off so these pics will probably be the last taken with the top of the display case removed.
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My goal in life is to be the kind of person that my dog already thinks I am.
My Photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
 
Dig that 60's wallpaper,man!
These last few pics were taken in 1978(only 22 years left to go!)
At this stage I had just finished the copper plate sheathing which took about 300 hours to do.The individual plates were cut ,then they were heated with a butane lighter till red hot and then quickly dunked in cold water.The irregular crazed pattern was the result.For a decorative type model I liked it the way it turned out but for a more realistic look it probably should have a green tinge.
The plates were attached to the hull using contact cement in a patten like the real ship.
After they were all glued on I nailed on each individual plate using copper wire ,cut to length ,with the ends sanded flatA hole a little smaller than the wire nails' diameter was drilled into the hull for each nail.I hammered in each one after laying out the pattern on the copper plate with a small pin.This is where using an epoxyied interior really paid off ,as it provded a very firm seat for the copper nails.I did not use any type of sealer over the completed hull and their has been no discoloration over the years.If anything the copper has developed a little deeper,richer patina that really compliments the colors found in the wood base.Total time in the project after finishing the sheathing about 1,200. to be cont........
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My goal in life is to be the kind of person that my dog already thinks I am.
My Photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
 
Jeez, Thats amazing, it couldn`t survive in my house.The missus would dust that to destruction.
Patience of a saint, i`d say!
 
This is where I first got the idea to do the Victory as a diorama.This is an 18th century ship model from Buckler's Hard shipyard in Hampshire England.This ship diorama is an early example of the practical uses of modelmaking.I don't know what scale it is,probably around 1/48 which was a popular scale in those days for Admiralty type models,I believe.
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My goal in life is to be the kind of person that my dog already thinks I am.
My Photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
 
It wasn't until quite late in the game that I finally decided that this Victory model would be a diorama.As you can see from the pic(and others to follow)most of the standing rigging is already up and I have started the running rigging ,and was about to belay some of it around the head ,when I was forced into the decision before certain areas became inaccessable.This would have been late in 1998 when I already had about 4,700 hours in the project.
The figures are 1/72 Revell of different Napoleanic era armies ,that were converted to naval officers and men.The unfinished figure standing on the marines walk was originally put there for scale purposes,to show just how large these ships really were.For the casual viewer it is only with the human figures that they can get any real sense of scale.I find that ship models with no crew,especially ships at sea under full sail a little odd.Just my opinion! Cheers! John.
 
The above book originally published back in 1970 is one of the best references I have for a step-by-step method of rigging a first rate ship.It would also be extremely helpful in rigging any large ship.It cost me all of $1.95 back in 77 but is ,in my opinion,worth its weight in gold(maybe diamonds)for the average modelship builder.From bowsprit to rudder pendants it is arranged in a clear orderly fashion that leaves little room for mistakes.In fact at the end of my build I could only find one or two belaying points that should have gone at the foot of a mast where I had to belay them to the shrouds because of access problems.
I think that the book is long out of print but I know it is still available as a couple of fellows that I recommended it to were able to find a copy.(I know not where)
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My goal in life is to be the kind of person that my dog already thinks I am.
My Photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
 
John,

I build in my modelcareer, four wooden tall ships. It is still a dream to build the HMSS Victory under full sail. But with the tremendous high prices of the boxes it still always remain a dream.
So, i tip my hat, made a very deep bow for you, and hope someday i can do just the same as you and build it from drawings .....

Marc
 
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