HMS Victory Diorama-My Way
- Thread starter JohnReid
- Start date
Help Support planetFigure:
JohnReid
A Fixture
This is where I was in the build in July 1980 ,at about 2300 hours of workshop time.I only calculated the actual building time in my shop ,not any of the research time involved.This represents almost 3 years of my hobby time.
I made all the trunnels from raw bamboo run through a drill gauge drawplate.The epoxy/fibreglass that I put on the interior of the hull came in handy for providing a good base for the trunnels to be nailed into.Later I was able to find bamboo stiks used for meats etc.. at the supermarket which simplfied the task somewhat.
The head was built up using cherry wood and the stern with the kit supplied etched brass
plates and various strip woods.
The figurehead was painted gold and used pretty much as supplied.
The gunports and wriggles are brass and also kit supplied.
The rest is scratchbuilt.
I made all the trunnels from raw bamboo run through a drill gauge drawplate.The epoxy/fibreglass that I put on the interior of the hull came in handy for providing a good base for the trunnels to be nailed into.Later I was able to find bamboo stiks used for meats etc.. at the supermarket which simplfied the task somewhat.
The head was built up using cherry wood and the stern with the kit supplied etched brass
plates and various strip woods.
The figurehead was painted gold and used pretty much as supplied.
The gunports and wriggles are brass and also kit supplied.
The rest is scratchbuilt.
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
You know I was thinking that a good way to get an idea of the commitment involved in building a ship model of this size is to think in terms of the number of ordinary work weeks that they would take to build if it was treated like a job.I figure that my model would take about three years to build .
Years ago I corresponded with a fellow who scratchbuilt 2 Victories one in 1/48 scale and one in 1/96 scale.The 1/48 took about 12,000 hours to build and the 1/96 about half that time ,around 6,000 hours.But it was his opinion that the 1/96 was a lot more difficult to build and I guess he should know!
I spent 6,000 hours on my semi-scratchbuilt in 1/72 scale(including figures) and I estimate that if I had totally scratchbuilt her it work out to about 8,000 hours total time.
For anyone thinking of taking on this challange this will give you some idea of the work(fun) to come.
This is actual shop time that I am talking about ,not all the planning and research both before and during the build.
In the 35 years that I have been doing art and crafts this was my biggest and most rewarding challenge.
Cheers and Merry Christmas! John.
Years ago I corresponded with a fellow who scratchbuilt 2 Victories one in 1/48 scale and one in 1/96 scale.The 1/48 took about 12,000 hours to build and the 1/96 about half that time ,around 6,000 hours.But it was his opinion that the 1/96 was a lot more difficult to build and I guess he should know!
I spent 6,000 hours on my semi-scratchbuilt in 1/72 scale(including figures) and I estimate that if I had totally scratchbuilt her it work out to about 8,000 hours total time.
For anyone thinking of taking on this challange this will give you some idea of the work(fun) to come.
This is actual shop time that I am talking about ,not all the planning and research both before and during the build.
In the 35 years that I have been doing art and crafts this was my biggest and most rewarding challenge.
Cheers and Merry Christmas! John.
JohnReid
A Fixture
In the pic above you will notice that the decks were laid in Walnut strips,individally selected for contrast.The trunells(wood nails) are bamboo rods made with a drawplate.
Normally there would probably be at least two trunnels per width of board but I just couldn't get the bamboos' diameter small enough using the tools I was using.
The decks were all laid in the 3 or 4 step method depending upon what the plans called for.The caulking between the planks is black paper glued on with carpenters glue.
I just couldn't resist putting on the "Here Nelson fell....." plaque for interest.Being a decorative type model in wood and brass I substuited between these materials at random as it was "a look" that I was after.Brass wheels,cannons,barrells it reall y didn't matter as it was the overall effect that was important to me.
The hammock netting is plastic black screen window material.
The figures are in the act of firing the "daybreak ceremony "cannon.
Normally there would probably be at least two trunnels per width of board but I just couldn't get the bamboos' diameter small enough using the tools I was using.
The decks were all laid in the 3 or 4 step method depending upon what the plans called for.The caulking between the planks is black paper glued on with carpenters glue.
I just couldn't resist putting on the "Here Nelson fell....." plaque for interest.Being a decorative type model in wood and brass I substuited between these materials at random as it was "a look" that I was after.Brass wheels,cannons,barrells it reall y didn't matter as it was the overall effect that was important to me.
The hammock netting is plastic black screen window material.
The figures are in the act of firing the "daybreak ceremony "cannon.
JohnReid
A Fixture
Oct 98
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
These older pics taken before the standing rigging was finished are from around 1998.I am posting them as references that may help other modelers.I know good pics were hard to find in the early days of my build.These pics were taken when things were a little easier to see.
As I mentioned earlier it was "a look" that I was trying to achieve.All wood and brass with no paint.Why? simply because I love the look of wood and brass especially as it ages.It gets a wonderful patina over time much like an old painting or antique.History tells me that wood and brass ages well and gets more beautiful with time and with very little maintenance.
_________________
My goal in life is to be the kind of person that my dog already thinks I am.
My Photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
As I mentioned earlier it was "a look" that I was trying to achieve.All wood and brass with no paint.Why? simply because I love the look of wood and brass especially as it ages.It gets a wonderful patina over time much like an old painting or antique.History tells me that wood and brass ages well and gets more beautiful with time and with very little maintenance.
_________________
My goal in life is to be the kind of person that my dog already thinks I am.
My Photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
Modifying Plastic Figures
Although the plastic figures described here happen to be 1/72 scale and of a different theme ,the following applies to any scale or subject matter.These type figures are available in many modes of dress and action and with a little imagination and creative re-designing can be adapted to just about any dioramic storyline.These figures happen to be Revell but there are many suppliers of figures on the internet.to be cont..............
Although the plastic figures described here happen to be 1/72 scale and of a different theme ,the following applies to any scale or subject matter.These type figures are available in many modes of dress and action and with a little imagination and creative re-designing can be adapted to just about any dioramic storyline.These figures happen to be Revell but there are many suppliers of figures on the internet.to be cont..............
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
These are some of the 1/72 figures I used on my HMS Victory diorama.I was lucky in this case, to find figures of the Napoleonic era, that required mostly the removal of plastic to convert them into what I wanted.
Some I just changed the uniform from infantry to marines,while others I radically changed from officiers into able seaman.I used three different sets of figures to crew my ship.When shopping around for figures try to see beyond the obvious and look more for body and hand and feet positions that could be used "as is" or could be slightly modified for your purposes.
I understand that the plastic used by different manufactures can vary quite a lot in consistancy.I found that with these Revell figures that you could cut them very cleanly with a #11 blade but they are hard to work with any kind of rotary tools.I don't know if the same is true for all plastic figures,here you will have to experiment a little as my knowledge in the area is limited to only one brand.I have had more experience with resin figures and rotary tools, which are very easy to work on with burrs.
These plastic figures are quite nice and have a lot of detail for such a small scale.They require very little clean up and flash can easily be removed by cutting it off or scrapping with the edge of the xacto blade.
The mods that I show here are about as radical as I have done to a standard figure without actually moving, replacing ,or mix and matching body parts.Here I was looking for hand and body positions that could be modifed into figures that were hauling on ropes.These guys are obviously "factory rejects" for one reason of another but they give you an idea of the process.
I also used some "mounted on horse "figures from the American civil war era for some of the seated figures.Other seated figures were from wagons and they would make great sailors hauling on oars or a seated figure for aircraft cockpits.More on this later......
Some I just changed the uniform from infantry to marines,while others I radically changed from officiers into able seaman.I used three different sets of figures to crew my ship.When shopping around for figures try to see beyond the obvious and look more for body and hand and feet positions that could be used "as is" or could be slightly modified for your purposes.
I understand that the plastic used by different manufactures can vary quite a lot in consistancy.I found that with these Revell figures that you could cut them very cleanly with a #11 blade but they are hard to work with any kind of rotary tools.I don't know if the same is true for all plastic figures,here you will have to experiment a little as my knowledge in the area is limited to only one brand.I have had more experience with resin figures and rotary tools, which are very easy to work on with burrs.
These plastic figures are quite nice and have a lot of detail for such a small scale.They require very little clean up and flash can easily be removed by cutting it off or scrapping with the edge of the xacto blade.
The mods that I show here are about as radical as I have done to a standard figure without actually moving, replacing ,or mix and matching body parts.Here I was looking for hand and body positions that could be modifed into figures that were hauling on ropes.These guys are obviously "factory rejects" for one reason of another but they give you an idea of the process.
I also used some "mounted on horse "figures from the American civil war era for some of the seated figures.Other seated figures were from wagons and they would make great sailors hauling on oars or a seated figure for aircraft cockpits.More on this later......
JohnReid
A Fixture
Hi Guys! my confuser has been U/S for the last week or so.Hope you didn't think that you would get rid of me that easy!!!!!!!! Cheers! John.
garyjd
PlanetFigure Supporter
John, Again, very nice work. i could not imagine converting so many plastic figures. I do like the little touch of the "Nelson fell here" plaque.~Gary
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
1/72 figs
Here are a few painted factory rejects.They were painted in bright acrylics as I wanted to give a little life to a rather dull wood and brass ship diorama.I undercoated them with thinned down white gesso ,put pins in their feet and glued them with superthin superglue.
The bottom row of seated figs are from a Revell civil war series and with a few mods could make excellent pilots.
The bottom right figure has some white epoxy paste added to it ,ready to be carved off.(I must have changed my mind for some reason.)
Here are a few painted factory rejects.They were painted in bright acrylics as I wanted to give a little life to a rather dull wood and brass ship diorama.I undercoated them with thinned down white gesso ,put pins in their feet and glued them with superthin superglue.
The bottom row of seated figs are from a Revell civil war series and with a few mods could make excellent pilots.
The bottom right figure has some white epoxy paste added to it ,ready to be carved off.(I must have changed my mind for some reason.)
JohnReid
A Fixture
JohnReid
A Fixture
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
WIP Critique Westphalian Chevaeu Ledger Lancier der Garde 1812- Latest: Canterbury Coxswain
-
-
-
-
